I bought a lighting upgrade from Daniel Stern about a year ago and am just now getting around to installing it. I have no idea where some of the parts go. Does anyone have instructions for how to install the kit? The parts I have are 2 gray Bosch relays, 2 fuses, 2 H4CM male sockets, 2 black relay looking pieces, 2 black relay adapters? not really sure. I think the fuses attach to the alternator output then to the gray Bosch relays. I have no idea what the 4 black relay/ relay adapter looking parts are for though. I'm guessing the H4CM male socket adapter plugs into the light bulb. Here is a pic of the parts I have if it helps.

 

try their web site

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

 

I did but I can't find any information on the 4 black plastic pieces, and I'm just guessing that the H4CM Male Socket in the white boxes attach to the light bulb. If that's the case then the wires would go from the socket to the relays and the relay attaches to the alternator output via the fuses. This still leaves those 4 black pieces.

 

Here's a better pic of the pieces I'm talking about and the H4CM socket that is the white one. I think the 2 larger black plastic pieces are relay holders, it kind of threw me because the mounting hole is on the opposite side of the relays mounting hole when you plug it in. The smaller two black pieces I think attach to the lightbulb, so what do the white pieces do? They have a male plug so they can't attach to the lightbulb (which has a male socket) as I thought before.

 

Ask the manufacturer, read the second paragraph on this page.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html

 

I tried getting in touch with him and have not gotten a response. Can anyone tell me where the white pieces in the above pic go?

 

Figured it out, they connect to the female connectors that plug into the original sealed beam headlights so you don't have to cut the factory wiring.

 

Interesting web site, please let us know how it works out. I have a pair of Silverstars for my car, but reading his web site has me thinking of use doing the upgrade he suggests. I headlights on low beam really suck.

Randy

 

Right now I'm doing the wiring for the new lights and am somewhat confused as to why those white plastic pieces are included. They must be for cars that do not have the flip up lights like ours. It is supposed to plug into the socket where the original headlamp went so the factory wiring is not cut, but that connector has to be cut off in order to snake the new wiring inside the headlight bushing. So it's pretty worthless as it would be cleaner to just solder the connection instead of having 2 unnecessary connectors. It would be nice to have though if the flip up lights weren't there. The kits he sells are not Corvette specific. I am looking forward to how well they will work though as I had the Sylvania Silverstars on there before the upgrade.

 

Here are some pics to show you what I'm talking about. This one shows the female socket that needs to be cut off and the stock wire that you need to remove from the bushing it goes through and later connect it to the relays provided.



Here is where I snaked in 12 gauge wire that Daniel Stern recommends (14 gauge at a minimum). This is a tight fit, I wouldn't try to go bigger. Stock wiring looks to be about 16 gauge.



BTW in case anyone was wondering the headlight package I'm installing consists of Cibie Ecode housings and Osram Ultra High Efficiency 85/80w bulbs.

 

Keep posting pics etc. I am going to be doing his lighting upgrade soon.

 

I will update this thread...

So what my kit consists of basically is a set of light bulb housings and the light bulbs themselves, a set of relays and fuses and associated hardware. Because of the increased bulb voltage you HAVE to upgrade the 16 gauge wiring on your car (in the lighting circuit) which I am showing pics of above. It's not hard and even if the lights work without the wiring upgrade they will be brighter if you have less voltage drop across the system (and why put the extra stress on those wires?). The 12 gauge upgraded wire goes from the light bulb housing into the bushing or pivot hole where the lights flip up and then out to two relays (a high beam and a low beam). The original 16 gauge wire that used to turn your lights on now connect to the relays. They turn the relays on (the cable gauge does not matter here). The relays are also connected to the alternator output via fused cables. When I say "connects to the relays", I am talking about physically connecting to the relay holders which the relays plug in to. One (of three) 12 gauge wires from each light bulb housing bypass the relays and go straight to the battery negative terminal. In the pictures above there are 2 white pieces and 4 black. The 2 black pieces that have a connection with 3 slots connects the actual light bulb to the new wiring you put in. The other two black pieces are holders for the relays so it looks professionally done. The white pieces and original light bulb socket, that was cut off, can be used but is not necessary (I will end up using it).

When I looked at these parts earlier this week I was a bit confused about what parts go where because it has been about a year since I purchased them. Reading DS's site and this thread should help you out if you decide to do this. I will post after pics of the lighting, unfortunately I did not think to get before pics of the lights.

 

Are DS instructions fairly easy to follow?

 

It's fairly straight forward but the instructions on his site are not Vette specific and are kind of spread around instead of a "here are the instructions: #1, #2, etc..). For example he doesn't say you need to cut the connector going to the lights because you can't feed it through the pivot hole. But other than that they are pretty much the same instructions for any car.

 

How long have you been trying to reach him? I have generally found him to be extremely unresponsive and more so post sale. We ended up forgetting about the relay kit on my install because the relays that we got shipped to us contained no relay covers and were not rated for underhood use and offered little to no protection to the elements. We are working right now with a painless wiring harness originally designed for truck applications which contains everything that DS recommends relative to fused relays and makes the whole job nearly completely plug and play. We're not done with the job yet since it looks like I had a bad headlight switch (prior to the upgrade) and are waiting for that switch to arrive.

Ron

 

Ron, when you get the painless thing done, can you post up or PM me.
DS has a couple emails and an internet sales company too. I think he has too much on the plate.

 

That's why you delegate. :-) In any case, trying to get support on a project with someone who doesn't answer e-mails until weeks later if ever leaves a sour taste in my mouth. You can get the housings and light bulbs other places too.

In any case, the painless harness is pretty nice. It uses all OEM style components with weatherpack connectors and also uses the painless TXL wiring. Once that switch comes in and we get it all buttoned up again, I'll PM you.

Ron

 

Thanks Ron, Delegation is sometimes an art. You have to be able to train someone to work you out of a job sometime. And Delegating is something all people need to learn.
Thanks again

 

Its been about a week now since I've been trying to contact him... When I first purchased the kit it took about that long for him to reposnd, said he was on vacation lol. Yeah, not the easiest to get in touch with him but worth the wait unless you can source the parts yourself which shouldn't be that hard. I've seen most of the parts of the kit on other sites that sell lighting upgrades, just haven't seen the relays. Not as bad as Guldstrand though, I've been emailing that guy for more than a YEAR!!! to get answers to my heim joints I bought from them

 

I did all this a while back, just posted a new thread concerning high beams not working or driving lights.
I didn't read all of yours, but did you resolve issues? The square black pieces are relay bases so you can plug the relays in.
Where did you ground wires?
Do your brights and driving lights work? Does your driving light switch activate your brights?