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How are you all splicing your wiring. I have some oem style conectors to replace in my engine compartment. . I hate plastic crimp conectors. Any suggestions?
If you can get the connectors you need from a salvage and/or scrap harness with some of the wires intact...I like solder and heat shrink tubing myself, much better/permanent repair...I'm not much on butt/crimp style connectors either
Thats what I want to do. I know how to solder, but unfamilar with the heat shrink. Any tips on using it?
It is easy. Before soldering the wires together, cut a piece of shink tube 2x the size of your splice and slide it on the wire (before twisting them together). After soldering and allowing it to cool somewhat, slide it over the joint, and warm it with a heat gun or torch. It will shrink tight to the connector and make a watertight seal.
It is easy. Before soldering the wires together, cut a piece of shink tube 2x the size of your splice and slide it on the wire (before twisting them together). After soldering and allowing it to cool somewhat, slide it over the joint, and warm it with a heat gun or torch. It will shrink tight to the connector and make a watertight seal.
How are you all splicing your wiring. I have some oem style conectors to replace in my engine compartment. . I hate plastic crimp conectors. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Corvette Mike
with crimped connectors, if they are done securely, then I use heat shrink over the connector. Works great.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
If you have access to a boat supply place, in the boating world there is a slightly better item available.
It is a combination 'butt' connector and shrink tube with glue inside too. It is first squeezed to assure good metal contact, then heat is applied and it both shrinks and softens the glue, assuring a good watertight seal.
The subtle advantage is no solder, which if it contains 'flux', is an acid which can cause corrosion over time -- and it further prevents a 'stiff' portion of wire, which can prevent the flex needed and promote breakage and is why cars use 'stranded' wire instead of 'solid' (like in a home).
I put a couple of raps of electrical tape over the solder joint, then slip the heat shrink over top. I don't feel 100% comfortable with just shrink tubing. I find a a tad thin and some solder joints may have a pointy spot.
Thanks all. This is the first splicing I will be doing on my vette. I have had it since new. I couldnt bring myself to putting those plastic connectors on my vette.
Please educate me here. Whats the pourpose of both types?
Thank you.
Acid core solder is used for joining, usually sheet metal together, like body work. Rosin core solder is used for joining electrical wires together. Acid conducts electricity, rosin does not. You do not want acid conducting electricity to other circuits or to ground.
Acid core solder is used for joining, usually sheet metal together, like body work. Rosin core solder is used for joining electrical wires together. Acid conducts electricity, rosin does not. You do not want acid conducting electricity to other circuits or to ground.
Thank you. Whats the flux stuff for that I have been using all these years? Cleaning agent or something?
You can buy paste flux for soldering. These fluxes can be used for metal work or electrical work. Metal working fluxes require more chemical activity because steel is not easy to solder to like copper is. Be sure to read the directions on the can of flux. If the flux is acidic, there will be a warning on the can to not use it for electrical work. Copper is easy to solder to and solder with a rosin core is all that should be necessary for soldering. Normally paste fluxes are not required for electrical work. If copper wire is black and badly oxidized, don't rely on the flux to take this oxide off. Use sandpaper on the copper until you see bright copper.
You can buy paste flux for soldering. These fluxes can be used for metal work or electrical work. Metal working fluxes require more chemical activity because steel is not easy to solder to like copper is. Be sure to read the directions on the can of flux. If the flux is acidic, there will be a warning on the can to not use it for electrical work. Copper is easy to solder to and solder with a rosin core is all that should be necessary for soldering. Normally paste fluxes are not required for electrical work. If copper wire is black and badly oxidized, don't rely on the flux to take this oxide off. Use sandpaper on the copper until you see bright copper.
Thank you again. Now I can bring myself to do my splicing. This forum is awesome because of guys like you, Agent 86, Pete K and Rodj willing to share your knowlage with us all.
Depending on what the connectors are for I am in the wiring biz for race cars and probably have the proper connector in stock so just change the connector for a new one and no splice. I have a 91 L98 and if they are found on that I will check to see if i have any. Another solution is to buy the pin release tool for the connector and get the pigtail kit you were going to splice in and change the housings. I am assuming the the connector housing is damaged.. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help out. I am not in the biz per se of selling connectors so not really a vendor either.. I don't want to violate the vendor rules here but help someone from hacking up something that can be left stock..
Dave
Yes you can buy the Weatherpak tools to make replacing connectors a bit easier, but if the connector is allready damaged, you can finish the job by crushing or breaking the rest of it with a set of pliers. Then reform the locking tangs (if need be) and push the wires into a new Weatherpak and pull back until the wire is seated. No soldering required, but for high draw circuits (fans, blower motor), it doesn't hurt to solder the connector to the wire. That will ward off any voltage drop, though you'll need to go easy on the solder as it still has to fit into the connector. For sensor circuits (regardless of what you do), you might also check resistance between the connector and ECM. Any resistance will skew the input, so further repairs will be necessary if you find any.