You have checked timing so I would rule out the dizzy being off a tooth but re check it EST wire disconnected. Check what Jake said to look at as for not going closed loop using the ALDL, you have spark,you have air, you have fuel, What temps are you running if the coolent temp sensor is bad that can cause problems also.

 

I wish there was a magic answer, where we could just say "This is causing your problem, all you have to do is . . . . ."

Unfortunately, your problem could be caused by a number of different things. So, without a scanner, all we can do is suggest you check this, then - not finding the cause - check that. It's pretty much a process of elimination.

Don't feel bad though, most of us have been down the same road. Just keep after it; it's probably something simple. Finding it is the real problem. Fixing it is usually a piece of cake.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

Listen to what Jake is saying before you throw any more parts at this thing. Do the paper clip thing to pull codes. The first thing you should see is 12, that's a flash followed by two flashes repeated three times.This is a check of the ECM. Any following flashes are stored fault codes. I have a difficult time believing you are having this much trouble and no codes are stored.

 

Yes these cars are suffocated just to the point of being un-suffocated, tracing down some of the troubles are tedious. Stay with it you will find it and enjoy the car all the more so

 

Here's how to check for any stored code:

With the ignition key out , insert a bent paper-clip (or even a short length of wire with the insulation stripped off both ends, will work) into terminals 'A' and 'B' of the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL).

The ALDL is screwed to the underside of the dash about where your right knee would be with you sitting in the driver's seat.

Since the Link isn't marked, just look forward at the link - 'A' and 'B' are the TWO, TOP RIGHT openings.

After inserting the jumper, turn the key to "ON" BUT DO NOT START THE ENGINE. The Service Engine Soon light will begin to flash. As MUFFIN posted, the light will flash code 12 three times.

Here's how it will look: FLASH followed by a pause, then two quicker flashes. Then a longer pause (longer than the first pause) and it will repeat. This will repeat for a TOTAL of three times. Blink ________ Blink, Blink________________Blink_________Blink , Blink, etc.

After the three times, any stored code will automatically flash in a similar manner.

Let's say a Code 32 is stored: You'll see three quick flashes, a short pause then two quick flashes, then a long pause. This well then repeat TWO more times for a total of three times. The system will then go on to the next stored code and flash in a similar manner.

If there is no other code stored, or if there is NO CODE at all, code 12 will repeat. Code 12 tells the person checking the system that the diagnostic function is working properly. It doesn't mean there's any problem.

Be sure to turn the key to "OFF" before removing the paper-clip (or wire) to prevent the chance of a voltage spike.

Keep is posted on what you find.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

Ok so figured out the problem. EST wire connector was unhooked inside the pigtail and I have 1 clogged converter. Should I just hollow both of them out or replace both of them? What would you guys do?

 

How'd you figure out the EST connection and plugged CAT were the causes, Jay?

If you post how you tracked them down it will probably help others down the road.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

I 86 had a gutted CAT. Gutting it does cause more resonance and a louder exhaust tone. If you have to pass a tail-pipe emissions test, the car probably won't pass.

Jake

 

My pre cats were loose and rattling so I just had them cut out replaced with normal pipe

 

Clogged cat will kill your power. Sounds like a good time to take your car to a muffler guy and get all three of those out. My old L98 with no precats, a high flow main cat, and no mufflers sounded great. You could probably get that setup for $350. If you replace your cats like stock it will be very expensive, and not worth it in my opinion.

 

Well I was changing the o2 sensor that I had and got new one installed. While plugging the new pigtail in for o2 sensor the est pigtail fell right out of the bottom. Looked up in the pig tail and the connector was missing. Fired it up after connecting est and ran a little better then the drivers side exhaust manifold got hot really quick while passenger side could still be touched with my hand.

Is there an air tube going to the converters? I look at walker exhaust and it only shows 1 converter. My car has one on each side right after the manifolds. How much of a pia is it to pull the exhaust?

 

Those are your pre cats the main cat has a air hose connection. If you can find a shop to cut them out & weld a pipe in you dont have to drop the exhaust

 

Before I had headers, I had the pre cats cut out with a plasma cutter and new pipe welded in. I was out of there in 20 minutes.