I was following this guide http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/removing_ip.htm

and discorvered this, look through these pictures tell me where you think i should go from here? try to find another one of these connectors and solder it in?













sorry if some of the images are blurry. my camera wouldn't adjust properly

 

Good luck finding the connections and soldering them in. I would spend the $3-4 hundred for a professional repair/replacement.

 

Same thing happened to me a few years back. I took the unit out and sent it off to Contemporary Corvette in Pennsylvania and they repaired it for me for $200. Reinstalled and it has worked just fine ever since.

http://www.contemporarycorvette.com/

 

An update. All of those chared areas, I scraped down so it was just metal on metal, repaired all of the broken solders.

Heres the bad news, when i was screwing everything back together I heard a small pop noise.

Sure enough when I installed it and fired it up. All the back lights all work, and my RPM screen is cracked

 

too bad, because you could have just soldered a jumper wire between the two boards and just left the corroded pin as it was.

 

**** man, I should have waited and just done that but thanks for the help guys. I hope someone else will use this as a cautionary tale.

Does anybody sell those LCD's individually?

 

I have never seen them for sale anywhere. The general repair service such as those mentioned in previous posts are for fixing the electronics. Sounds like you may need to call up a corvette salvage yard and see if they'll sell specific parts out of the LCD dash.

 

This guy sells new LCD's

http://www.vettesport.com/

He also sells on E-bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-89...spagenameZWDVW

 

those LCD are about $100, and easy to put in. They fit flush with the plastic frame when viewed from the front. The two very thing edges of the LCD are what make electrical contact and are extremely fragile. When you install the new LCD make sure that you clean off the inner plastic edge of the housing of any glass fragments. And make sure the new LCD fits flush in the housing and DON'T FORCE IT otherwise you'll crack those edges of a new $100 part. Guess how I know.

 

Yep force makes things worse! they put a dumb spring thing on the upper edge of the center lcd and I wasnt looking at it and CRACK!.... I have one on order from him right now...

 

I would have wondered why the pin got charred in the first place. Something looks shorted. A broken solder isn't necessarily a short. Something else is wrong -- and probably caused the pop when reassembled. Does that pin drive one of the light bulbs? Any chance the socket is shorted over to another circuit?

You need to test the individual circuits or send it in. If LCDs are $100/ea I'm afraid you'll spend more without a methodical approach.

 

Looking at the pcb card photos you posted I've noticed that the bulb socket closest to the odo mounting is smoke damaged on the backside which is not normal. I understand you had to remove the odo to remove the circuit board. Just a guess, but it looks like you've lost the odometer motor and the short there is what smoked the pin and socket that connect the PCB cards.

 

Yes, my odometer and cruise control is also gone. It went at the same time as my speedometer (that plugs into the side of the transmission). I havn't had the money to replace it yet, I assumed that those three were related....

 

Maybe you should try contacting the 2 salvage yars posted bottom-left of the C4 tech main page. See if they have a replacement and what it'll cost.

 

 

I cannot afford to do it at the moment, but I will put it on my list of things to do. But just confirming, that the cruise control and odomete run through the digital dash cluster? And thats the reason I lost them. Not because of the faulty speed sensor?

 

You can contact scarbexc. He rebuilt mine for 275 but he runs a salvage yard. He could help you get cheap parts?

My transmission speedometer part went out also, nor does the odometer since they are all connected like mentioned.

 

I'll not say that cluster is or is not damaged other than the pin connector.....it should have blown the fuse before the amperage got that high to melt stuff like that. When smoke is let out of electronics it is usually more trouble than you'd think.

Off hand, if I remember right the pin that you damaged is a grounding pin between the 2 cards. With the smoked ODO unplugged the rest of the cluster should still work if it is going to - with the exception of the cruise (no speed input), speedo (bad sensor) and RPM LCD (cracked by U)
The cruise control works with the speed sensor pulses this is how is knows to add more throttle to the cruise circuit to move the throttle forward or backward. So if the speed sensor is out then...no cruise control for you.

If you want to try to fix it yourself I'll shoot (later on tonight) you a link to where to buy a cheap (well as cheap as the come anyway) RPM LCD. The pin and socket you smoked are available through one of the major Vette catalogs (can't remember which one though) for like $25 for both (they must be soldered on). The LCD panels are pretty tough to crack unless you don't seat them correctly in the cluster before tightening the screws.....the whole front section is a "pressure" fit against the LCD but I'm sure you figured this out already the gap is critical.
If you think you don't think you can handle the repair on your own shoot me a PM I'll help if I can.