Re-located temp sensor
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Austin Texas
Re-located temp sensor
Laziness is the mother of invention. The Eckler's fan switch kit wanted me to pull the pipe plug from between cyls 1 and 3. Sheeeez, I cant even see in there, let alone get my hands or a tool on it.
So, I got a piece of pipe from Ace Hardware, welded a collar to it, tapped the collar to 3/8" NPT, threaded the sensor in and installed it as shown in the photo. Makes changing it later, if necessary, a lot easier.
Voila. When the temp of the coolant exiting the radiator/entering the engine is sufficient to my in-dash digital readout hit 209 F, both fans kick on. When the dash reads 194, they kick off. Perfect. Only had to run the wires about one foot distance.
Combined with radiusing the inside of the coolant outlet housing, this car cools waaaaayyyyy better now. I can watch the temp on the dash drop like a rock when those fans kick on. The cooling snafu is finally over. Oil will suffer less thermal breakdown and AC might even be a little more efficient.
http://www.patentsearcher.com/sensor.jpg
If theres any interest, I could offer a kit comprising a properly re-worked coolant outlet housing, and the sensor-equipped T in the photo.
So, I got a piece of pipe from Ace Hardware, welded a collar to it, tapped the collar to 3/8" NPT, threaded the sensor in and installed it as shown in the photo. Makes changing it later, if necessary, a lot easier.
Voila. When the temp of the coolant exiting the radiator/entering the engine is sufficient to my in-dash digital readout hit 209 F, both fans kick on. When the dash reads 194, they kick off. Perfect. Only had to run the wires about one foot distance.
Combined with radiusing the inside of the coolant outlet housing, this car cools waaaaayyyyy better now. I can watch the temp on the dash drop like a rock when those fans kick on. The cooling snafu is finally over. Oil will suffer less thermal breakdown and AC might even be a little more efficient.
http://www.patentsearcher.com/sensor.jpg
If theres any interest, I could offer a kit comprising a properly re-worked coolant outlet housing, and the sensor-equipped T in the photo.
Last edited by ChrisWhewell; Apr 29, 2009 at 10:02 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Austin Texas
Race Director
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From: Texas
Thread Starter
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From: Austin Texas
Its not programmable on a 93, Maynard ?
Don't you guys have anything else to do but spew negativeness ?
Next mod, I'll keep mum on.
Why can't one friggin person say: "Nice work" or "good idea" ?????
Cuz they ain't got it in em.
Don't you guys have anything else to do but spew negativeness ?
Next mod, I'll keep mum on.
Why can't one friggin person say: "Nice work" or "good idea" ?????
Cuz they ain't got it in em.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando FL
Basically your doing what I am doing manually. I have only wired into the secondary fan because when it is hot outside the A/C is on which engages the primary fan anyway.
Was wondering if you connected to one or both fans? I would also check fan operation when it is cool and hot outside to make sure the fans are turning off.
Congrads on your success.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Orlando FL
** Now re-reading it all again did you move the water pump sensor to the new pipe you built? If you did, was wondering why are fans coming on differently the original specifications.
Now I am confused as to what you exactly did and how you did it. Or did the fan switch kit come with a new sensor.
Please more info, Thanks, sounds interesting.
Now I am confused as to what you exactly did and how you did it. Or did the fan switch kit come with a new sensor.
Please more info, Thanks, sounds interesting.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
Don't get your panties in a bunch because someone suggested an alternative.
As for new ideas, I and others have shared plenty including our complete engine build ups, brake cooling duct designs, engine oil cooler installations, suspension modifications, etc.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Austin Texas
** Now re-reading it all again did you move the water pump sensor to the new pipe you built? If you did, was wondering why are fans coming on differently the original specifications.
Now I am confused as to what you exactly did and how you did it. Or did the fan switch kit come with a new sensor.
Please more info, Thanks, sounds interesting.
Now I am confused as to what you exactly did and how you did it. Or did the fan switch kit come with a new sensor.
Please more info, Thanks, sounds interesting.
The sensor in the photo is one that came in Eckler's kit and is additional to the sensors already present on the vehicle. In one shot, I eliminated the plenum heating cool flow, replacing the OEM "t", with my pipe. I drilled the pipe 5/8 in the side, then welded the collar/bushing having 9/16 ID to it, tapped it, and threaded in Eckler's sensor.
Next step is to add an air-bleed to my pipe. Surely there will be naysayers who will come up with a dissertation on how useless such an idea is, while there will be others cognizant of the benefits.
Have a great day !!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Austin Texas
It is programmable Maynard. Burn a new chip and plug it in.
Don't get your panties in a bunch because someone suggested an alternative.
As for new ideas, I and others have shared plenty including our complete engine build ups, brake cooling duct designs, engine oil cooler installations, suspension modifications, etc.
Don't get your panties in a bunch because someone suggested an alternative.
As for new ideas, I and others have shared plenty including our complete engine build ups, brake cooling duct designs, engine oil cooler installations, suspension modifications, etc.
What others have shared, is irrelevant. GM shares tons of technology, with every car it sells, and people still **** and moan. My conclusion is that it is the nature of some to be negative - they can't help themselves.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Yucaipa CA
I don't want to buy a chip, otherwise I would have. I'm talking about a $ 3 pipe here, and you're talking about hundreds of dollars in chips or chip-burning equipment.
What others have shared, is irrelevant. GM shares tons of technology, with every car it sells, and people still **** and moan. My conclusion is that it is the nature of some to be negative - they can't help themselves.
What others have shared, is irrelevant. GM shares tons of technology, with every car it sells, and people still **** and moan. My conclusion is that it is the nature of some to be negative - they can't help themselves.
I'm moving my gauge sender between 1 & 3 and putting the thermal sensor back by 8
OK .... I can see why your plug unlike mine is a hassle to get to, mines a 90 and yours a 93 .... On the L-98 it's in plain sight and by the way older chevy's used a 3/8th's ratchet to remove these plugs, I found my 90 to have an 11/32 fitting.
Last edited by jeffp1167; Apr 29, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
Race Director
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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Getting both fans to turn on sooner should be of interest to any of the forum members considering a lower stat w/o reprogramming.
I appreciate the idea!
gp
I appreciate the idea!
gp
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Austin Texas
You have a good idea here, my dual fans won't kick on no matter what is done either. So I chose to buy a thermal switch to do the job rather then let the ecm do it. I see only one flaw in this idea though, by placing the the sender in the upper radiator hose or the front of the head where coolant flow is good, the back area of the engine will be sustantialy hotter due to slower coolant flow. I think I would rather have the thermal sensor is the area where the coolant temps would naturally be the hottest.
I'm moving my gauge sender between 1 & 3 and putting the thermal sensor back by 8
OK .... I can see why your plug unlike mine is a hassle to get to, mines a 90 and yours a 93 .... On the L-98 it's in plain sight and by the way older chevy's used a 3/8th's ratchet to remove these plugs, I found my 90 to have an 11/32 fitting.
I'm moving my gauge sender between 1 & 3 and putting the thermal sensor back by 8
OK .... I can see why your plug unlike mine is a hassle to get to, mines a 90 and yours a 93 .... On the L-98 it's in plain sight and by the way older chevy's used a 3/8th's ratchet to remove these plugs, I found my 90 to have an 11/32 fitting.
Another aspect is that the switch I used is a grounding switch, and the pipe my switch is in is insulated from ground by virtue of its being disposed between two rubber hoses. So I had to also affix a grounding strap and run a third wire. But, it works freakin fantastic in my application so far. Have a good evening !!
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From: Austin Texas
Thanks !! Hey, I have a water pump sitting on the bench from a 96 LT1. It looks like there's a boss cast in, about an inch and a half northeast of the threaded hole where the temp sensor goes. I'm pondering potential utility in boring and threading that. Could be a good alternative location for a temp sensor. I can't help but wonder what was on their mind when they cast that in there. Getting to that plug between cyls 1 and 3, at least on my 93, is a bi*ch for a lazy one like myself.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
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From: Yucaipa CA
Thanks !! Hey, I have a water pump sitting on the bench from a 96 LT1. It looks like there's a boss cast in, about an inch and a half northeast of the threaded hole where the temp sensor goes. I'm pondering potential utility in boring and threading that. Could be a good alternative location for a temp sensor. I can't help but wonder what was on their mind when they cast that in there. Getting to that plug between cyls 1 and 3, at least on my 93, is a bi*ch for a lazy one like myself.
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