LT-4 won't start
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
LT-4 won't start
I have a 96 LT-4 The battery ran down during storage. I charged it and had the battery checked it is fine,Interior lights and gauges come on Engine does not turn over not even a click. Please help
Thanks,John
Thanks,John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
How old was the battery? I would just splurge for a new battery, I would be willing to bet it'll fire right up. Sometimes, once a battery gets completely drained, it just doesn't do what it's supposed to do. The voltage required to turn on a light is alot different from the voltage to turn a starter.
BTW. it's a good idea to start your engine and let run up to temp at least once every couple of weeks when in storage. LT4's just hate to be neglected and will punish you for it. Then you have to go buy something new and pretty before the romance can continue.
BTW. it's a good idea to start your engine and let run up to temp at least once every couple of weeks when in storage. LT4's just hate to be neglected and will punish you for it. Then you have to go buy something new and pretty before the romance can continue.
Last edited by lt4obsesses; May 7, 2009 at 02:45 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Turn on your head lights and look at them. If they look normally bright that would indicate an least on the surface the battery connections are good and so is the battery.
Even a partially discharger battery should at least click the starter solenoid if the head lights come on normally. If you get no click and the volt meter on the dash indicates around 11 – 12 volts I would think there is a actual problem but not the battery.
Before you dig into it, clean the key pellet on the ignition key to make sure you are not activating VATS. Then check the clutch switch (if manual), start enable relay and other related items. I would also measure the voltage on the solenoid terminal when you try to start the car to see if it is getting 12 volts. If it was sitting for a long time the solenoid could be frozen and not activating.
Even a partially discharger battery should at least click the starter solenoid if the head lights come on normally. If you get no click and the volt meter on the dash indicates around 11 – 12 volts I would think there is a actual problem but not the battery.
Before you dig into it, clean the key pellet on the ignition key to make sure you are not activating VATS. Then check the clutch switch (if manual), start enable relay and other related items. I would also measure the voltage on the solenoid terminal when you try to start the car to see if it is getting 12 volts. If it was sitting for a long time the solenoid could be frozen and not activating.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 589
Likes: 1
From: PA
When you charged your battery did you see action in the 6 cells? When charging a battery you should see bubbles in the cells. Put your charger on it again, if you see 5 cells bubbling and 1 that isn't, that cell is dead.
A good thing to have is what's called a Battery Butler, Float Charger, Battery Tender etc. Plug this into a wall outlet and the 2 alegator clips to your (new) battery. What this device does is maintain your batteries charge over the winter months or anytime for that matter when your car is just sitting. These devices also keep your battery active and reduce the formation of sulfer between the plates in each cell. Once the sulfer grows and makes the connection between the plates that cell is now shorted and dead.
Using this device prevents surprises in the springtime like you just had with a dead battery. I've been using these devices on 6 of my cars for 5 years now. Believe it or not the battery in my 79 Blazer is 8 years old and is still starting it. A tender won't keep a battery alive forever, but it really slows down the formation of sulfer inside. If you get a flash light and look inside each of your cells, I'll bet you'll see that sulfer at the very bottom between the plates.
A good thing to have is what's called a Battery Butler, Float Charger, Battery Tender etc. Plug this into a wall outlet and the 2 alegator clips to your (new) battery. What this device does is maintain your batteries charge over the winter months or anytime for that matter when your car is just sitting. These devices also keep your battery active and reduce the formation of sulfer between the plates in each cell. Once the sulfer grows and makes the connection between the plates that cell is now shorted and dead.
Using this device prevents surprises in the springtime like you just had with a dead battery. I've been using these devices on 6 of my cars for 5 years now. Believe it or not the battery in my 79 Blazer is 8 years old and is still starting it. A tender won't keep a battery alive forever, but it really slows down the formation of sulfer inside. If you get a flash light and look inside each of your cells, I'll bet you'll see that sulfer at the very bottom between the plates.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 589
Likes: 1
From: PA
Just 1 more thing. If you tested the battery with a volt meter and seen 12 something volts that's good, but it also takes amps to turn your starter motor. I just went through this with the battery in my 65, my Harbor Freight tender failed sometime during this past winter.
I charged it's battery and got it up to 12.8 volts. Turned the key and nothing not even a click at the starter soliniod. Out came the battery and on the work bench it went. Tested the specific gravity in each cell, that showed good. Put the charger back on, 5 cells were bubbling and one seemed like it was trying. My son remembered we have a load tester (I didn't). A load tester is like a toaster oven with a very heavy coil is all. Put it on the battery and we seen 12.8 volts, flipped the toggle switch for the load and the needle went down to .2 volts. I think what was happening is the volts were there before the load test, but the amps weren't under the load test. It takes 2 to tango, volts and amps to turn a starter.
Sorry I was so long here.
I charged it's battery and got it up to 12.8 volts. Turned the key and nothing not even a click at the starter soliniod. Out came the battery and on the work bench it went. Tested the specific gravity in each cell, that showed good. Put the charger back on, 5 cells were bubbling and one seemed like it was trying. My son remembered we have a load tester (I didn't). A load tester is like a toaster oven with a very heavy coil is all. Put it on the battery and we seen 12.8 volts, flipped the toggle switch for the load and the needle went down to .2 volts. I think what was happening is the volts were there before the load test, but the amps weren't under the load test. It takes 2 to tango, volts and amps to turn a starter.
Sorry I was so long here.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Battery terminal voltage must not fall below 9.0 volts during cranking or the battery is discharged, battery cables need cleaning, or the battery is at the end of its life. Batteries that sit discharged for long periods collect lead sulfate on their plates and effectively become motorcycle batteries. Sulfated batteries are door stops. Measure your battery terminal voltage during a crank attempt.
You might also have defective contacts in the ign lock and the pellet in the ign key is not being read. Then VATS won't allow a crank. Could also be a defective clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if auto). Jump the safety switch and try a crank.
You might also have defective contacts in the ign lock and the pellet in the ign key is not being read. Then VATS won't allow a crank. Could also be a defective clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if auto). Jump the safety switch and try a crank.
