Code 15/22/32 help
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Code 15/22/32 help
I recently had these codes start flashing on me and I'm unsure what the true problem is. I have tested both and from what I can see they're both working fine. The car has a rough start/idle but after its been warmed up it seems like it worked the problem out itself. There's voltage going to the temp sensor and the solenoid is creating vacuum. I'm unsure yet if the valve is working properly but are these codes in any way related to one another. The TPS code has been there for a long time, I replaced it and its still there, I reset the IAC and TPS like tutorials around this site has suggested but that code still appears and since its always been just that code and the car has ran fine I just sort of ignored it. The other 2 codes however appeared at what seems to have been the same time. Anyone have some ideas? I'm gonna test the vacuum system and take the plenum off but are there any other components in this system that would cause it to idle rough?
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I recently had these codes start flashing on me and I'm unsure what the true problem is. I have tested both and from what I can see they're both working fine. The car has a rough start/idle but after its been warmed up it seems like it worked the problem out itself. There's voltage going to the temp sensor and the solenoid is creating vacuum. I'm unsure yet if the valve is working properly but are these codes in any way related to one another. The TPS code has been there for a long time, I replaced it and its still there, I reset the IAC and TPS like tutorials around this site has suggested but that code still appears and since its always been just that code and the car has ran fine I just sort of ignored it. The other 2 codes however appeared at what seems to have been the same time. Anyone have some ideas? I'm gonna test the vacuum system and take the plenum off but are there any other components in this system that would cause it to idle rough?
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I dont know codes for an 85. Maybe un plug maf and see if it runs better? Could also possibly be fuel injectors? Injectors dont leave a code.
Good luck
Corvette Mike
32 code might be egr. just guessing.
Good luck
Corvette Mike
32 code might be egr. just guessing.
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89 codes
15 TPS. 22 coolent temp. 32 egr. These may be different than 85 codes.
Maybe run a scanner on it, too.
Mike
Maybe run a scanner on it, too.
Mike
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From: Central MN
Could any of the codes be connected? If the ECT sensor is bad will it cause the EGR circuit to give off a false code? I had tested the vacuum system and the valve and there's no leak and the valve is opening and closing. From testing the few components in the system it appears the EGR valve/switch/solenoid are all operating just fine. ECM? Is there a way to test the ECM? Could the grounds cause the code to appear as well? Where are the grounds so I can clean them up just to make sure.
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From: Central MN
Sorry I know what these codes are and I've tested them all but I'm lost as to why the codes aren't going away if everything shows they're working as intended. Are there relays for these somewhere? Perhaps one of them went? I checked all the fuses and nothing is blown.
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Ok the other 2 codes are not showing up, I also removed the harness from the ECT and there are metal prongs sticking out of the connector like it pulled the crimp plugs out of the sensor itself or the crimp prongs from the wires in the harness, either way the code 15 is still there and I jumped the harness together and got the same code, it is receiving 5v though, so bad sensor?
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TPS and the ECT share a common ground with the MAT (Manifold Air Temp Sensor). That ground travels back to the ECM, which then sends it to the rear of Bellhousing. With both a 15 and a 22, the ground is probably open. Trace black from both devices back to the splice. It should be somewhere in that area.
32 is EGR and either means that the temp switch in the exhaust tube didn't ground when EGR was commanded (and the exhaust gases that flow through the tube when the EGR valve is open is what closes the switch) OR it was grounded on startup. If your EGR is open at idle, you need a new one - manifold vacuum should keep it shut. Otherwise, make sure that the temp switch wire hasn't fallen off or melted somewhere.
32 is EGR and either means that the temp switch in the exhaust tube didn't ground when EGR was commanded (and the exhaust gases that flow through the tube when the EGR valve is open is what closes the switch) OR it was grounded on startup. If your EGR is open at idle, you need a new one - manifold vacuum should keep it shut. Otherwise, make sure that the temp switch wire hasn't fallen off or melted somewhere.
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The ground looked fine, I'm only getting code 15 now but the car is backfiring and idle very rough will this sensor cause the vehicle to run like this? If the EGR is failing will the code come on idling or would I have to drive it around some? The TPS code is gone now and the EGR one currently is not on but I'm wondering if that will come back when I drive it since from what I read the car will backfire and run rough if this valve has failed. Unless the ECT sensor will make the car run like that I'm not sure what the problem is. Visually everything looks well connected and cleaned up the grounds so yea will a code 15 cause the car to run this bad? Or would this point to the ECM?
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Any code has it running on backup, but most don't backfire. If your EGR is open at idle, it's washing out combustion and if you see that it's open, remove the vacuum line. If it doesn't close, you'll have to replace it.
The 15 means there's an open ground, poor connection, bad sensor or bad ECM. Start by making sure the connector is good. If so, buy another one and after you've cleared any Codes, plug it into the harness (no need to install yet). Start it up and let it run for maybe a minute. If the Code doesn't return, replace it.
The 15 means there's an open ground, poor connection, bad sensor or bad ECM. Start by making sure the connector is good. If so, buy another one and after you've cleared any Codes, plug it into the harness (no need to install yet). Start it up and let it run for maybe a minute. If the Code doesn't return, replace it.
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The 15 means there's an open ground, poor connection, bad sensor or bad ECM. Start by making sure the connector is good. If so, buy another one and after you've cleared any Codes, plug it into the harness (no need to install yet). Start it up and let it run for maybe a minute. If the Code doesn't return, replace it.
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I mentioned earlier that the prongs in the connector were sticking out, as it turned out they weren't its just that the plastic part in the clip was just gone so the prongs were carefully placed into the sensor, I replaced the clip and sensor since I was down there and all is well :-P so I'm gonna run it for a couple days and see if the EGR codes come back or if the car stumbles again, but running it for a bit tonight made me excited since it was running really strong and steady! Thanks for the help again, I once again learned stuff about another section of the car!
Thanks all
Thanks all