Hi everyone I will try to make this as short as possible

I started with overheating issues and found that my secondary fan isnt working.

I replaced the fan relay and looked at the wiring for the coolant temp sensor at the water pump. I have 2 white wires coming from it. They go to a yellow and black wire which go to the computer. I have the diagram via Pep Boys.

I hooked the wires up one way and heavy smoke pours though my inside vents as if something is on fire. It I hook them up the other way they just continued to blow the underhood 20amp fuse. disconnected nothing happens car runs.

I added in a tee connector in the water hose that goes to the small exsiting hose that runs off the top radiator hose thats where I ran a sensor for the fans which I purchased from Ecklers fans which turns on the fans much eariler than the computer. this is where I got problems

I ran the sensor wires to the new relays and hook them to the (f) slot on the relay as directed by the Ecklers diagram. I forgot to run a ground wire . I put in anti freeze and ran the car at idle and watched the temp it stayed under 200F I dove around the block and parked let car idle more temp now about 211F secondary fan still not running. At this point the car just cut off no warning at all no hesitation. Since then the car crank as if normal but will not start

can anyone help me with this one.

 

What year model is it ?

 

Wow, unfortunately, you may have damaged the computer (PCM/ECM). Have you pulled the DTC codes (if not sure how, do a search).

Before doing anything else to the car, you might want to buy an FSM (Factory Service Manual) -- check ebay, for sale items here, or contact Helm directly.

On our 1994's, the fans are totally controlled by the computer (ECM) based on input from the ECT and the AC pressure sensor (lower sensor mounted in the high-pressure line near the firewall).

And there is miss-information out there -- with AC off, the primary fan comes on at 228 F (based on ECT) and the secondary fan at 236 F. With AC on (based on the AC pressure sensor) primary should come on pretty quickly after AC is turned on, and secondary should come on after a few minutes (assuming air temps are 70+ F) -- if secondary doesn't come on -- it is often due to low or slightly low freon.

Unfortunately, you mis-understood the wiring of the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT).

It is a thermistor (variable resistor based on temp), to which the computer feeds a constant voltage (5vDC) and measures that voltage to determine engine coolant temperature. If there is a problem with the sensor, it should set a DTC of 14 or 15. The white-to-black connection goes to ground. The white-to-yellow goes to the computer (ECM) AND SHOULD NEVER be connected directly to a ground.

If the ECT has gone bad (shorted internally), with the wire connector disconnected, it could be confirmed with a VOM -- there should NOT be continuity (infinite resistance) between either wire connector and ground -- and some resistance based on temps betweeen the two wire connections (e.g. at 77 F should be 2796 ohms; at 194 F should be 241 ohms).

Not sure which 20 amp fuse is failing -- could you clarify (as the primary fan fuse is a 30 amp and secondary is a 40 amp).

The additional fan control wire (from ecklers) being connected to the 'F' fan relay is correct (the 'F' connector runs to the computer and is the circuit which the computer 'grounds' to enable the relay and its associated fan motor). HOWEVER, the 'ground' wire from this new sensor DOES NEED to be connected to ground, otherwise it will not work.

 

You got some great advice above from the admiral.

What concerns me is the heavy smoke that entered the cabin. What did it smell like ? Did it smell like burnt insulation from wires or sweet smelling like coolant ??

Anyway, my guess is that it was burnt insulation caused by an electrical overload. I would check the 2 fusible links that sit behind the battery just under the relay box. You have to remove the battery to check these fusible links. You may not have blown a fusible link, but you may have comprimised one. Inspect the black insulation that covers the fusible link to see if it is cracked and burnt looking. Look to see if any part of the fusible link has exposed bare wire.

Since you kept replacing the 20 amp fuse after it blew, this could be the source causing damage to the FL. The Alternator FL may be the one that caused all the heavy smoke. Since there was a draw of >20 amps , the current source would be the main Alt. wire which is attached to the main connector of the fuse box.

 

Thanks everyone for your quick response here is what I learned over the weekend


first I went after the burning smell and found that I had a switch installed by Circut City some time ago. Well the wires were fryed so I removed them from under the dash the only damage that I seen were to there wires they ran a hot wire to one of my existing hot wires I looked at it and it appeared to be ok no burnt installation seen.

Next I read the codes which are the following H31 H33 H35 H37 H16 H36 H64 H15

I checked and heard fuel pump coming on and checked for fuel from hose line which was present (didnt use a gauge)

Next I check one of the spark plugs and didnt find any spark I took off the coil plug from the coil wire for a spark (before distributor) no spark.

Afterwards I left the paper clip in place that I used to read the codes and started the car it ran for 3 mins and cut off again. After that it would start again.

Please tell me it Im jumping the gun here but is this a computer problem?????

Would any one recommend that I get a replacement from PCMforless which would run me about $300.00

If so other then having them set the fan to come on eariler are there any other features I should consider them setting if it comes to
ordering one.

This is a photo of the sensor plug going in to the water pump that I explained about in an eariler post. How do I know what wires go to what. The plug has 2 white wires and they go to yellow which feeds to computer and black ground.



Thanks

 

First things first. OK, so someone put on an aftermarket connector probably due to breaking the tab.

Here is how the yellow(right) and black(left) wire are oriented when the lock tab is facing up. This should clear up your CTS issue and error code:

 

thanks for that information it will be very usful

What do you think about the other questions

do you think it could be time to replace PCM and if so what other setting do I need to due

Thanks

 

First cleear all the history error codes after you get the CTS wiring corrected. Then try to start the car again. Never try to start the car with the ALDL shorted (pin 4 and pin12). I hope that didn't screw anything up.

Re-check to see if you have spark from coil wire, and plugs(if coil is OK).

Given the error codes you have, I am more inclined to think that your Optspark is shot. How many miles on car, and is the Optispark original ?
Opti's are good for about 100K miles. The last thing to condemn is the PCM, but never say never.....

 

Thanks as soon as I read you post on the wiring I corrected mine. my current Optispark unit is about 3 years old.

This is a 1994 with 165k on it. I will clear the codes tomorrow and try it again. While I was looking at the car I put a bulb light on 2 of the pins of the connector for the optispark and it indicated voltage.

I want to mention one more thing trying not to leave anything out. Question 2 days ago I drove the car for about 15 mins it drove fine no hesistation good pickup. Got back in the driveway and it cut off and wouldnt restart. Yesterday it started ran for about 3 mins and cut off and it would start again

I will check the car tomorrow further

thanks again

Would the optispark operate like that.

 

Sounds good. You may have fried your ICM. This supplies the timed pulses, which come from the PCM, to the coil which then fires the correct cylinder. You can remove this and take it to an auto store like Advance or AutoZone and have it tested.

But let's see what the codes say.

Was the Optispark an OEM Delphi unit or a knock-off ???? Some of the knock-offs are not very reliable.

Here's an overview of your ignition system if you don't already have it :

 

Hi all

Well had to step away from the car I will bring you up to date now

Thanks Mike c ChrisWhewell and theadmiral94 I corrected the wiring on the pug for the temp sensor going to the water pump.

I check for voltage at the A and D pins on the plug to the ICM I read very low voltage I took it to advanced auto but they couldnt test it i brought a new one and installed it car still wouldnt start. They let me return it. I also purchased a new coil but that didnt work as well.

Should I now start thinking about replacing the Optispark unit? I know the best is MSD but dont have that kind of money right now because I just put 3k into the before this happened.



Distributor Advanced about $200.00 witn out rotor Ebay $150.00 to $200.00 with rotor any other suggestions