Engine Replacement for my 84
no timing chain or cam

Timing chain and cam included



Looks as if some are still having issues with the English used with the thread.
Last edited by jhammons01; Jun 13, 2009 at 05:44 PM.

Fully Assembled Street Series Short Blocks start at $1999
Fully Assembled Race Series Short blocks start at $2599
* CAT Crankshaft
* CAT Rods
* Speed Pro Pistons
* Bullet Camshaft
* Engine Pro Timing Cover
* Engine Pro Oil Pan & Oil System
(that big picture is killing the readability of the thread...if you want to see it follow the link)
SBC Short BlocksBored
Decked
New hypereutectic pistons
Blueprinted rods with ARP bolts
New bearings
Frost plugs
$1700
Last edited by jhammons01; Jun 14, 2009 at 01:33 AM.
I won't even put a cam in this one becasue it is more trouble than it is worth for this whole motor setup. My project on this car is on hold, until I find a 383- 396 to put in it.
best of luck, what ever you decide
Those are really nice engines, and I hope Chuck takes no offense to this, but they are SERIOUS overkill for his purposes. He has made it clear that he is very comfortable with the Crossfire setup. A chain is as strong as its weakest link. An engine is as powerful as its lowest flow item.
In todays market, $2,000 will buy a decent short block, a mild cam and lifters, good timing set that will meet his needs. He's already worked out what he wants on the top of the engine. A decent short block with hypereutectic pistons and even a nodular iron crank would serve him VERY well and last virtually forever.
Look for a short block with reconditioned rods, hypereutectic pistons, preferably built on a block bored with a Rottler and pistons fitted on a Sunnen CK. I expect that he could even get a balanced one for that money.
Again, he has a budget and he's not building a Pro Stocker.
BTW, I REALLY don't understand why people have a problem with using the basic components from his existing engine! It has a four bolt improved block and a nodular iron crank along with rods that should recondition very well. Add to his cores the proper machine work, rod reconditioning, crankshaft turning, a set of hypereutectic pistons and decent rings and it would be MORE than up to the task that he is looking for. Don't get me wrong, I'm an overkill motor builder. Heck I find myself deburring blocks that are meant for not much more than a grocery getter, but there's practicality and budget that must be considered. I expect that there are some premium short block builders that would be HAPPY to have his engine as a core.
Doc
Last edited by MBDiagMan; Jun 13, 2009 at 07:39 PM.

You have both "assumed" that I stated that.
For 2K you can definetly get a good SB, ( just so were all on the same page thats without heads!) Any of those blocks will work fine.
With a ported CFI intake,2" tbs just remember that if you start going with larger cams and such tuning will be necessary to get all you can out of it. Will it run ...sure will. But tuning can give you a lot more.
I'm sure I'll be corrected in someway by that statement by the "experts" this time it will be that I made the statement the intake comes with the SB.
But I've had mine for several years and do know a thing or two about the CFI.
If you think theres a possibility of NOS in the future you'll want forged pistons not hypereutectic pistons. Just and FYI
Thats the best you can do!Post #2 , 2nd paragraph first sentence. Doc recommends pulling his heads off to check the ridge.
Then states a few posts later About how he's changing is heads anyways. After telling him to do a in car engine rebuild.
Maybe what you should have done is quoted the entire thread, so you can reread and understand until that point.
Then read it again, any maybe this time you'll understand what your reading, rather than quote one sentence. You have to read the entire thread
You can take docs statement,
You have to change heads anyways one of two ways. Here I'll spell it out for you so you can understand
1) he's putting new heads on the car anyways or 2) since hes getting a short block hes got to take them off one sb and place on the new sb.
Point of my posts was that for some it may be easier to just buy, or take to a machine shop rather than trying to do a engine rebuild themselves. My point had nothing to do with changing heads! Read it whatever way you like. Just trying to help you understand.
If you can't understand this time, I can't help you.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Those are really nice engines, and I hope Chuck takes no offense to this, but they are SERIOUS overkill for his purposes. He has made it clear that he is very comfortable with the Crossfire setup. A chain is as strong as its weakest link. An engine is as powerful as its lowest flow item.
In todays market, $2,000 will buy a decent short block, a mild cam and lifters, good timing set that will meet his needs. He's already worked out what he wants on the top of the engine. A decent short block with hypereutectic pistons and even a nodular iron crank would serve him VERY well and last virtually forever.
Look for a short block with reconditioned rods, hypereutectic pistons, preferably built on a block bored with a Rottler and pistons fitted on a Sunnen CK. I expect that he could even get a balanced one for that money.
Again, he has a budget and he's not building a Pro Stocker.
BTW, I REALLY don't understand why people have a problem with using the basic components from his existing engine! It has a four bolt improved block and a nodular iron crank along with rods that should recondition very well. Add to his cores the proper machine work, rod reconditioning, crankshaft turning, a set of hypereutectic pistons and decent rings and it would be MORE than up to the task that he is looking for. Don't get me wrong, I'm an overkill motor builder. Heck I find myself deburring blocks that are meant for not much more than a grocery getter, but there's practicality and budget that must be considered. I expect that there are some premium short block builders that would be HAPPY to have his engine as a core.
Doc










