When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Which bolts are you referring to? When I pulled mine, the mounts stayed on the block, just the large single nut that goes thru the diagonal brace got pulled. It *should* be a straight shot from under the car, even with headers I would imagine.
The single straight bolt that goes through the mount and the frame, it is blocked by the Hooker 2151 tube, other brands might not be a problem, but the Hookers are on my car.
Also, I can pull my engine in 2 hours with the car on the ramps already,, too much experience in pulling this thing
The single straight bolt that goes through the mount and the frame, it is blocked by the Hooker 2151 tube, other brands might not be a problem, but the Hookers are on my car.
Also, I can pull my engine in 2 hours with the car on the ramps already,, too much experience in pulling this thing
LT1/4 cars are different. There is no bolt that goes thru the frame like with the Gen1 engine mounts. There is a single stud that extends vertically from the engine mount that you access from under the car. Remove that one nut/side and yank the engine
LT1/4 cars are different. There is no bolt that goes thru the frame like with the Gen1 engine mounts. There is a single stud that extends vertically from the engine mount that you access from under the car. Remove that one nut/side and yank the engine
Sweet, I wish mine had that, I have to unbolt the headers to take the motor mount bolt out, to lift the engine just so I can take the oil pan off
I've pulled C4 engines - both L98s and LT1s, half a dozen times. Each time:
Hood IN PLACE
Trans/Converter IN PLACE
Radiator and fans IN PLACE
Water Pump ON ENGINE
Exhaust Manifolds ON ENGINE
Heads, intake, valve covers, Opti, Balancer ON ENGINE
Lifter Pre-Load Set
Spark Plugs INSTALLED
Plug Wires INSTALLED
Two Nuts at Motor Mounts REMOVED
Exhaust system REMOVED
388 going in:
About 6 hours working alone. More than one way to skin a cat.
Leaving the headers on? not with hooker 2151's, they obstruct the motor mount bolt, so on my car the headers can not be on.
Looks like there is another advantage to an LTX C4 over the L98, easier to remove ENTIRE engine without removing wiper motor, engine mounts etc......
On EM LT install motor mount bolt has to be flipped around. However,if you look at my pics you can see the motor mounts are still attached. IMO if you remove exhaust manifolds/intake/waterpump etc you are doing way to much work to remove an engine from C4. Couple bolts, couple nuts some hoses, and lots of electrical connections and I have the sucker on the floor. Honestly I usually have it out before my first beer gets warm.
MIke
Last edited by aboatguy; Jul 24, 2009 at 09:16 PM.
I've pulled C4 engines - both L98s and LT1s, half a dozen times. Each time:
Hood IN PLACE
Trans/Converter IN PLACE
Radiator and fans IN PLACE
Water Pump ON ENGINE
Exhaust Manifolds ON ENGINE
Heads, intake, valve covers, Opti, Balancer ON ENGINE
Lifter Pre-Load Set
Spark Plugs INSTALLED
Plug Wires INSTALLED
Two Nuts at Motor Mounts REMOVED
Exhaust system REMOVED
388 going in:
About 6 hours working alone. More than one way to skin a cat.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Nice looking engine great choice in damper ......why stock exhuast mainfolds?
I have to agree that these engines come out/go in pretty easily...
The only thing I dont like is that when the engine is still assembled it can be easy to nick fiberglass when pulling it or dropping it in by yourself!
So glad someone asked the question. Thank you guys for all the info. I'm getting ready to pull the engine in my 1987 Vette. Girlfriend took it out one day and came home with it knocking and pounding. Got a motor and tranny off Evilbay for $670. Had to go get it in Maryland. I got some concrete to pour in my garage first then I will start the project. I've pulled lots of motors and transmissions. So you guys make it sound pretty simple. I'm gonna try it with the hood on first. If it gets in the way I will take it off as a last resort. I will be starting my own thread when the project starts. Corbett Out!
I've pulled C4 engines - both L98s and LT1s, half a dozen times. Each time:
Hood IN PLACE
Trans/Converter IN PLACE
Radiator and fans IN PLACE
Water Pump ON ENGINE
Exhaust Manifolds ON ENGINE
Heads, intake, valve covers, Opti, Balancer ON ENGINE
Lifter Pre-Load Set
Spark Plugs INSTALLED
Plug Wires INSTALLED
Two Nuts at Motor Mounts REMOVED
Exhaust system REMOVED
388 going in:
About 6 hours working alone. More than one way to skin a cat.
Sorry to hear about Jake. I never looked at the date when I posted. I did a google search and this thread popped up first. Almost 4 years since the last post before mine. Sorry guys.
Sorry to hear about Jake. I never looked at the date when I posted. I did a google search and this thread popped up first. Almost 4 years since the last post before mine. Sorry guys.
no problem bro...it was a chance to remember about Jake, he was an active member here and he joined the forum till the last days of his life,his son completed an engine he was building in that period in memory of him.
I've pulled C4 engines - both L98s and LT1s, half a dozen times. Each time:
Hood IN PLACE
Trans/Converter IN PLACE
Radiator and fans IN PLACE
Water Pump ON ENGINE
Exhaust Manifolds ON ENGINE
Heads, intake, valve covers, Opti, Balancer ON ENGINE
Lifter Pre-Load Set
Spark Plugs INSTALLED
Plug Wires INSTALLED
Two Nuts at Motor Mounts REMOVED
Exhaust system REMOVED
388 going in:
About 6 hours working alone. More than one way to skin a cat.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Jake, sounds good. where did you hook the chain to, to pull it.
The easiest & quickest way to pull C4 engine is to remove hood prop & pull from the side. Remove the damper pulley & wiper motor, dist, exhaust, converter bolts, trans bolts. Mark your wires & cables, don't forget your ground cables on left head. Its not a hard job maybe 2 hrs.