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The easiest & quickest way to pull C4 engine is to remove hood prop & pull from the side. Remove the damper pulley & wiper motor, dist, exhaust, converter bolts, trans bolts. Mark your wires & cables, don't forget your ground cables on left head. Its not a hard job maybe 2 hrs.
It isn't bad. It's a lot easier without the bellhousing on for a stick car. I've done mine from the passenger side with the hood still on and had plenty of clearance. The hoist's legs slid perfectly on either side of the wheel.
I like to pull the motor and trans together (6-speed). It's easier than separating them on the car IMO, but you will need a second person to help guide the motor out and back in.
I also remove the hood and pull from the front. It's only 4 bolts, I don't know why everyone tries to do it with the hood on.
I've done it several times and I think 2 hrs is a bit aggressive...unless you're not counting hooking up all the wiring and hoses in that time.
I like to pull the motor and trans together (6-speed). It's easier than separating them on the car IMO, but you will need a second person to help guide the motor out and back in.
I also remove the hood and pull from the front. It's only 4 bolts, I don't know why everyone tries to do it with the hood on.
I've done it several times and I think 2 hrs is a bit aggressive...unless you're not counting hooking up all the wiring and hoses in that time.
Do you leave the radiator in the car or do you need to pull it. I have read where all accessories and radiator can be left on when removing the transmission first.
I like to pull the motor and trans together (6-speed). It's easier than separating them on the car IMO, but you will need a second person to help guide the motor out and back in.
I also remove the hood and pull from the front. It's only 4 bolts, I don't know why everyone tries to do it with the hood on.
I've done it several times and I think 2 hrs is a bit aggressive...unless you're not counting hooking up all the wiring and hoses in that time.
I removed the engine with the hood on. It was not on my way, the tire was though.
I'm thinking about putting the engine back with the bellhousing etc. But with the tranny attached, I'd like to see pictures.
Pulling the trans+flywheel first and using the TPIS "Happy Hooker" makes it a one-person job. AC Compressor gets laid over to the side, radiator/fans stay in place.
From: Prather, California -1990 ZR-1 White/Flame Red- -SOLD!!-
I pulled the LT1 in my '93 ZF6 with the hood on and bellhousing attached. But I had to remove the motor mounts, then lower the engine even lower to get some room to get to the top 2 tranny bolts. I left the ZF6 installed. I think most people don't want to remove the hood because it's heavy & bulky and hard to get re-aligned.
When I pulled the LT5 out of my '90 ZR-1, I couldn't leave the bellhousing on because it was too long. So I had to removed the ZF6 completely, remove the bellhousing, then pull the engine. All this was with the hood on.
+1 happy hooker from side with hood on, and leave engine intact
works with my Long tubes too.
I never have to mess with hood, AC or radiator.
I can have whole engine sitting on garage floor or engine stand in less time than it used to take me to remove headers and intake (on plain old remove short block pull)
No joke it is so quick to pull and reinstall engine I'm tempted to pull the engine when its time to change plugs.
You are right about the 2 hrs. to pull, I've had my '84 for about 12 yrs I've had 12 diffrent engines in it the last 5 yrs. allways pulled from left side.maybe 3 hrs. working not playing around. I have never tried to leave headers on. My cherry picker has an adjustable weight leveling bar, crane or whatever you call the piece that makes a big diffrence in pulling, no droping back down to readjust chain. just turn handle on bar to adjust. I have had engines from modified crossfire, to 427 SB & enjoy this C4 more than my C5. good luck with your pulling, an extra pair of hands are handy
Do you leave the radiator in the car or do you need to pull it. I have read where all accessories and radiator can be left on when removing the transmission first.
Radiator stays in, accessories stay on except the PS pump. I have LT headers so I take them off. It makes things easy if you remove the passenger side brace, but it's not required.
I don't have pictures of the install or removal, just lots of pics of the motor out of the car and the car with no motor. BAsically, one guy runs the cherry picker, the other guy goes between the firewall and under the car to jack up the trans as you slide the motor in.
Radiator stays in, accessories stay on except the PS pump. I have LT headers so I take them off. It makes things easy if you remove the passenger side brace, but it's not required.
I don't have pictures of the install or removal, just lots of pics of the motor out of the car and the car with no motor. BAsically, one guy runs the cherry picker, the other guy goes between the firewall and under the car to jack up the trans as you slide the motor in.
If you have EM long tubes try leaving them on.
I honestly thought that I could not pull it with the EM LTs but to my surprise it worked and leaving the headers on makes a 2 hour engine pull within the realm of possiblity
I have a stock '93 LT-1. I:
- left the hood on.
- Flipped the A/C to the side.
- Flipped the Fuel Rails to the other side.
- Unbolted that Automatic Trans.
- Removed the exhaust system.
- Loosened the C-Beam so that I could lower the trany with a small jack, so that I could get at the top two bolts.
- Used a happy Hooker and all went well.
Which bolts are you referring to? When I pulled mine, the mounts stayed on the block, just the large single nut that goes thru the diagonal brace got pulled. It *should* be a straight shot from under the car, even with headers I would imagine.