The FSM calls for 65 lbs on the head bolts. The ARP bolts call for 85 lbs if I'm using 30W oil on the bolt head. Twenty pounds is a big difference.

Also, assuming I do this worng on the first try, can I loosen the ARP bolts and start over?

 

I torqued my ARP head bolts in a series of 30/50/70 lbft for the long bolts and 30/50/65 for the shortied. Then went back the next day and rechecked all the max torques.

 

I don't want to hijack this thread but I had a torque issue with my clutch and intake manifold.

On the clutch I torqued them to specs, I had to remove the clutch after 1,000 miles and the screws were not as tight. The same with my intake manifold. In the intake, I used thread sealant I you re-tight next day, would you break the seal?

Am I supposed to use thread lock on the clutch bolts?

Regarding the bolt heads, follow ARP instructions. I used thread sealant on the tip of the screws. The bolts already had a light coat of oil on them. Big difference from 65 to 85 that could be 1/4 ~ 1/2 of a turn. Get more info on those specs.

Factory calls for 65 ft-lbs
ARP called for 70 ft-lbs
I did mine 25-50-65 and re-did every phase twice 25-25-50-50-65-65

 

You can't really reuse a head gasket once it has been "over" tightened.

You'd think they would have you use less torque if not using a "dry" torque application. Usually when you apply a lubricant to threads that are going to be torqued down you reduce the ft# setting.

85 lbs torque setting (with lube applied to the threads) will "crush" the head (aluminum).....you'll end up with 100 + lb of torque on the bolt with the oil on the threads.

If I were you I'd do some more research or get ARP on the phone before you have a problem.

 

I've used ARP head bolts many times over the years and always follow their torque recommendations. Head bolts from different companies are made of different materials and each has it's own torque spec to achieve the desired clampling force. When it comes to rod bolts it becomes more critical to follow the company's torqueing procedure and spec.

GM recommends a specific torque for their specific head bolts and their specific head gasket. ARP is very specific on how to torque theirs. Non-hardening thread sealant on head bolts isn't effected by loosening and re-torqueing.

I've never used any head bolts that call for using Lock-Tite.

The lubricant that comes applied on ARP head bolts isn't a substitute for using their lubricant. It's applied at the factory to preserve the bolts during their shelf life and it should be washed off before applying ARP's lube/sealant.

Absence of the proper lubricate results in inaccurate torque readings. Don't forget to lube the underside of the head of the bolts and the washers. Doing that eliminates unwanted friction which would skew the torque reading. Also, the torque spec often differs depending on the lubricant used.

Torque specs are specific for the bolts being installed. I use GM's specs for GM bolts; ARP's specs for ARP bolts, etc.

Just my views.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

could it be something as simple as a mixup of torque values for a cast iron head (more) versus the torque value for an aluminum head (less) ?