C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Dash Cluster incomplete numbers??

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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 02:51 AM
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Default Dash Cluster incomplete numbers??

so i have a new problem with my digital dash cluster (1984). It lights up now thanks to http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/index.shtml
but now the tachometer numbers are incomplete

Anybody have any experience or advice with this??

*Ill do my best to get some pictures of it up here tomorrow, Thanks in advance, this is a puzzler
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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I posted a similar question not long ago about my mileage calculator. It doesnt display the hundred number at all times. Most likely it is a brain fart from the computer but I didnt recieve any real answers. It is kinda intermittant with mine, hopefully yours will be the same. Its disconcerting but doesnt affect anything, so dont sweat it too bad. If its a new cluster, contact the seller and see if it warrants a replacement.

Good Luck with it!
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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Sounds like you may need a new Tach LCD..When these go bad they start to lose segments.Heres a link..WW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-...d=p3911.c0.m14
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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If you have just done some work on the inside of it, you may not have seated the tac LCD all the way.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve59
If you have just done some work on the inside of it, you may not have seated the tac LCD all the way.

Or if the cluster worked properly before you dug into it you may have gotten "debris" between the LCD panel and the pink "pressure fitted" contact extension strips or between the strips and the PCB contact points.

Remove the pink strips and drag the edge of a craft knife/razor blade backwards down the strips to remove any debris from them (do not cut into them) use alcohol or WD40 to clean the contact edge of the LCD and or PCB panel...ENSURE THE PANEL/PANELS IS/ARE FULLY SEATED INTO THE FACE OF THE CLUSTER then reassemble the cluster.

Have these segments always been out since you got the car?

Often times when the panels have the crystal material broken inside when the cluster has been dropped, miss handled or the vehicle as involved in a "hard" impact of some type.

An easy way to tell if it is debris between contact point or a interally busted LCD panel is to remove the cluster from the car and put it into the freezer for about 10 minutes(ensure the cluster assembly is not over 85 degrees F before putting it into the freezer).....remove the cluster from the freezer and relatively quickly plug it into the car or bench test unit. If the panel/panels light up correctly at this point you have damaged/broken internally LCD panel.....as the panel returns to ambient temp you'll see that the panel returns to it non funtional state....if this is the case you'll need a new LCD panel to get your functions back....if this is not the case break down the cluster and clean the contact points.

I take no reponsibilty for any damage to a cluster should it occur from any of the steps mentioned above.....even though I have had success with these methods happens.

Take your time go slow and you'll be fine.


Last edited by engle1147; Jul 31, 2009 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by engle1147




I take no reponsibilty for any damage to a cluster should it occur from any of the steps mentioned above.....even though I have had success with these methods happens.

Take your time go slow and you'll be fine.

Covering our AZZ are we???.WW
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Covering our AZZ are we???.WW
CYA Though the LCD panels are pretty tough it is easy to crack them if they aren't careful about seating them in the housing properly before screwing/bolting down the front PCB.....the whole front section is a "pressure" fit. The CYA is also for those that throw a "hot" LCD panel/cluster into their freezer and wonder why it cracked/broke.

People who have internally busted LCD will notice that when the ambient weather is below 30 F their panels begin to work properly because the panel/material inside the panel contracts/contracted and this allows the loose seperated material inside the panels to make contact once again....the same "princple" is also used when trying to find poor/bad solder joints with freeze spray.

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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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WOW! thats some awesome advice! Ill try that today.

THanks for all the input and advice, it is very much appreciated!
Im trying to upload some pictures of the dash, here goes nothing:

<a href="http://s771.photobucket.com/albums/xx357/fijidan/?action=view&current=lcd_1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx357/fijidan/lcd_1.jpg" border="0" alt="LCD!"></a>
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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I think this one works better

http://s771.photobucket.com/albums/x...view=slideshow
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fijidan
Looking at your photo is appears that you may have a broken segment (fuel) in the center LCD panel. Your RPM panel seems to have a contact (pink extension strips) issue on the passenger side of the LCD panel since two thirds of the panel is dark....the segments that appear to be working on your RPM panel are feed at the bottom....the dark non energized sections are feed from the side...your going to want to take the cluster apart again and see what's going on in there and clean all those contact points for that side of the panel. Give that back lighting on the right side a look also while your in there.

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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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I swear i have cleaned those pink connectors with alcohol at least twice lol i think im gonna try scraping them clean this time?

I tried the freezer trick, when i hooked it back up(still frozen) the cluster grounded itself thru the turn signal lights

I think the pink connectors are still not making a good contact but what else can i do to make a good contact?? theres gotta be a way

Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this!
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