I just keep hitting road block after road block. I'm trying to replace my intake manifold gaskets and I now have the plenum off and all but 1 bolt out of the runners (left side under the fuel pressure valve). I'm trying to take the fuel rail assembly off because I can't get the runners off with them in the way and the two torx bolts that hold the fuel line bracket on the front of the engine won't budge. I've destroyed two t40 torx sockets. On the last one I tried using an impact wrench that you smack with a hammer and the tip just twisted without budging the bolts. Any suggestions for getting these things off? I think I'll call it a night and start again in the morning. Any help will be valuable.....thanks

 

Do you have access to an impact wrench? A real air one? Even if you have a buddy with an air tank and impact wrench as you will not need a compressor. Being a puny guy myself, I use air tools for anything that does not cooperate.

Mark

 

As a matter of fact I do. I treated myself to an air compressor and all the do dads for Christmas. I was considering using it, but thought it would strip the bolts worse than I am with the hammer impact wrench. At this point though it won't hurt to try.

 

As I expected, my torx socket was completely rounded off. The bolts don't look that bad yet, but I'm sure with persistence I can really mess them up.

 

I ran into this same problem but on the EGR crossover tube coming from the headers. What I did, was to take a grinder and grind down the sides of the bolt heads to make the head square. Then, after soaking with penetrating oil overnight, the next day I used a combo of a wrench and the torx socket at the same time to finally loosen those suckers. You might as a last resort try a torch, but probably better not since those are right next to the fuel line. Goodluck

 

Do you think WD40 would work, or should I make another run to Sears tonight to get some penetrating oil?

 

If it makes you feel any better, I snapped 2 cast T40 torx and twisted 3 Crastsman T40's taking off the manifold/runners. Yeah, lifetime warranty tools come in handy.

I replaced all of them with stainless steel socket head hex. Don't forget the antisieze on reinstallation! -Matt-

 

I just went through the same thing. I destroyed 4 or 5 torx bits tried hammer and electric impact with only thing happening of broken torx bits and rounded out sockets on the bolts. Finally just drilled the heads off and to my surprise, I could back the rest of the bolt out by hand. :mad I've read where other folks have had the same problem. Was gonna go the stainless, 12 point route for manifold and runners, but runners are metric and ARP had no 12 pt metric bolts. May just get some steel socket heads and powder coat the heads. Good Luck

 

Try taking a brass drift punch and hitting on it like you are going to drive it in deeper. Do this several good hits and it should break loose then.

Dave

 

Try PB Blaster, I'm sure that will help loosen it up, much better than WD 40.

 

Hope the bolt isnt seized in the intake...what Ive done before was use a big long breaker bar with an adaptor to fit a 3/8 drive torx socket and crack them SOB's loose.SOmetimes as soon as I hear it crack free,I stop and turn it back a little then loosen again, back and forth until it feels free to come out all the way.

With torx, you need to PUSH into the ratchet head or socket area with your hand and keep it as level as possible while trying to loosen it with the other arm.A real PITA.

Btw, that rear torx bolt for the runner,I always pull the distributor out of the motor to access it easier.
It allows me to use a ratchet and extensions back there and slip pass the fuel rail/reg. area...but I know being able to lift up the fuel rail makes it ALOT easier.

Btw sears Torx suxs..they bend and snap off all the time, and i think maybe they all do.
My snap on torx set has been really good..i only broke one socket and that was trying to remove a rusted seized torx bolt off a rusted caliper bracket from my lumina.
It took all my strength and a breaker bar before it broke off.
:)

 

Try a high quality torx socket, they should last a lot longer before breaking.
Tony

 

I spent 2 days trying to remove a stuck alternator bolt with all these methods. I finally took it over to the local mechanic who got the bolt out in 2 seconds with a pipe wrench.

 

A real good penetrant is a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. I like to take a hammer or a hammer & a drift and give the bolt a whack after putting it on, try to shock it a little and maybe help get it between the threads.

HF has some 1/2" drive impact torx I've used before. I've put a lot of leverage on them and used some really long extensions on them and so far they've held up. I've also used an impact wrench on them. So far, no problem.

 

the 50/50 acetone mix in a little oiler is the best.

heat cycle the bolt and douse it with this as it cools. repeat enough times untill you know penetrant is in the threads. then put more on.

hammering/shock/deadblow is good if you reach.

trick is patience. heat cycling and penetrant is so so so much easier and nicer (drink a beer or wine and listen to great music) than removing a snapped bolt then helicoiling threads in.....(cursing, crying)

edit, and yes I know this thread was started in the year 2002. But having a thread filled with multiple broken bolt techniques and stuck bowl techniques is good to have it all consolidated. We should have a sticky on dealing with this stuff as it happens so often on these cars

 

RR88, go buy yourself a Titian Tamper resistant torx bit set. I got mine from O'Reilys . Soak with penetrate day before and use an air impact wrench and hold on tight.

 

to everyone advising using heat with PB Blast, 50/50, beeswax, whatever; just one more tip to accelerate the heat cycle, when the stuck fastener is hot, press an ice cube onto it.

 

I recently ran across an article in an old copy of “Machinist Workshop Magazine” where they tested the effectiveness of various penetrating oils. They experimented by using popular penetrating oils to help remove a nut from a “scientifically rusted bolt”. The unit of merit was the amount of torque needed to remove a nut from the bolt.

Average torque to loosen a nut: Approx. cost per Oz (Walmart)

No oil used 516 foot pounds
WD-40 238 foot pounds 54.3¢
PB Blaster 214 foot pounds 34.2¢
Liquid Wrench 127 foot pounds 30.1¢
Kano Aero Kroil 106 foot pounds $1.05
Home-Brew ATF/Acetone Mix* 53 foot pounds 13.5¢

*The Home Brew ATF/Acetone Mix was a concoction of 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid and 50% Acetone.


It is interesting to note that “PB Blaster” enjoys a near cult like status among many users but was one of the poorer performers. It is also notable that Liquid Wrench worked nearly as well as Kano Aero Kroil but is significantly cheaper (Walmart prices). The home-brew mix is something that has been around a long time.