Electrical Shorts
The sparking suggests "shorts". Several months ago (6-8) I did run the engine, so I know it will run. I have checked everyting I can recall disconnecting in regards to the engine to ensure that it was reconnected, but there are other items such as all the wiring to the drivers door (which took a hit) and some concole wiring and interior lights still loose.
I really want to fire it up before I continue with the project, but should I continue with reassembly first?
That said, I've generally notices some small sparks when making the final connection on mine -- Nothing to get excited about, just obvious that there is current there. If you're getting a big flash, then something is wrong.
No start could be any number of things - depending on what you disconnected. I would suggest getting everything connected first and then try to start. If there's something wrong, then disconnecting things is the least of your worries.
That said, I've generally notices some small sparks when making the final connection on mine -- Nothing to get excited about, just obvious that there is current there. If you're getting a big flash, then something is wrong.
No start could be any number of things - depending on what you disconnected. I would suggest getting everything connected first and then try to start. If there's something wrong, then disconnecting things is the least of your worries.

There are a few systems that require power all the time like the PCM and CCM especially when first connected when you have surge current. Some other systems also may go thru a reset at first when powered on.
You can connect a ammeter in series with one of the terminals and measure the current. It should be no higher than 50ma but in reality be less than 35ma that when things settle out.
As for the engine not cranking, you need to start checking some of the basic voltages. If the CCM is not happy or VATS activates it is not going to crank. Get it hooked up as recommended or you may be looking for problems that don’t exist. Having the FSM or some kind of schematic would be a great help.
For the OP: It is normal to see a small spark when connecting battery cables because there are a number of capacitors in your electronics that draw current momentarily to charge up to 12v. If you had a short, you would blow a fuse or a fuseable link. Only one wire isn't fused and that goes to the starter motor.
You will need to check the starter circuit to see why it won't at least crank. Unplug the clutch safety sw (gear selector sw at base of gear shift if auto) and connect a jumper across the socket. There should be 12v on the jumper with the ign sw in crank position. If not, then unplug the 2 wires from above the steering column and insert ign key and measure the resistance across the unplugged wires. It should measure the same as the key pellet. If more than 4% different, connect a resistor the same value as the pellet across the socket in the wiring harness the 2 wires plugged into and try a crank.
I hope you didn't let your battery sit doing nothing for 6 months, if so, it is likely toast. Always use a battery tender on batteries sitting more than 4 weeks. Batteries self discharge even disconnected and left that way the plates sulfate and you cannot charge them and they become door stops. They may supply enough current to see a spark when connecting them, but not enough current to do anything else. A fully charged battery will measure 12.9 volts or higher and a discharged battery is 12.0 volts or lower and linear in between.
Last edited by jfb; Sep 15, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Thanks, Don
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts













