C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Electrical Shorts

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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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I'm reassembling my '96 CE after a lengthy "rest period". There are a lot of wiring that is not yet plugged-in where it should be. When I put in a new battery I noticed sparking at the positive terminal (ground already secured). When I attempt to start the engine, there isn't even a hint of power to the starter.

The sparking suggests "shorts". Several months ago (6-8) I did run the engine, so I know it will run. I have checked everyting I can recall disconnecting in regards to the engine to ensure that it was reconnected, but there are other items such as all the wiring to the drivers door (which took a hit) and some concole wiring and interior lights still loose.

I really want to fire it up before I continue with the project, but should I continue with reassembly first?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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FWIW, you should always connect the Positive terminal first, and the negative last -- this way if your wrench touches something it's not going to Arc.

That said, I've generally notices some small sparks when making the final connection on mine -- Nothing to get excited about, just obvious that there is current there. If you're getting a big flash, then something is wrong.

No start could be any number of things - depending on what you disconnected. I would suggest getting everything connected first and then try to start. If there's something wrong, then disconnecting things is the least of your worries.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisD
FWIW, you should always connect the Positive terminal first, and the negative last -- this way if your wrench touches something it's not going to Arc.

That said, I've generally notices some small sparks when making the final connection on mine -- Nothing to get excited about, just obvious that there is current there. If you're getting a big flash, then something is wrong.

No start could be any number of things - depending on what you disconnected. I would suggest getting everything connected first and then try to start. If there's something wrong, then disconnecting things is the least of your worries.


There are a few systems that require power all the time like the PCM and CCM especially when first connected when you have surge current. Some other systems also may go thru a reset at first when powered on.

You can connect a ammeter in series with one of the terminals and measure the current. It should be no higher than 50ma but in reality be less than 35ma that when things settle out.

As for the engine not cranking, you need to start checking some of the basic voltages. If the CCM is not happy or VATS activates it is not going to crank. Get it hooked up as recommended or you may be looking for problems that don’t exist. Having the FSM or some kind of schematic would be a great help.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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From as far back as I can remember (mid-50's) I was told to connect the ground first. Was I taught wrong?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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You will have to answer that yourself. It avoids fireworks if you touch a ground with the wrench as you are attaching the pos cable.

Originally Posted by patdaddy
From as far back as I can remember (mid-50's) I was told to connect the ground first. Was I taught wrong?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by patdaddy
From as far back as I can remember (mid-50's) I was told to connect the ground first. Was I taught wrong?
Electrically, it doesn't make any difference, but for safety reasons, when disconnecting the positive cable first, your wrench can touch ground and you will short the battery. It is safest when disconnecting, to remove the neg cable first and when connecting, install the neg cable last.



For the OP: It is normal to see a small spark when connecting battery cables because there are a number of capacitors in your electronics that draw current momentarily to charge up to 12v. If you had a short, you would blow a fuse or a fuseable link. Only one wire isn't fused and that goes to the starter motor.
You will need to check the starter circuit to see why it won't at least crank. Unplug the clutch safety sw (gear selector sw at base of gear shift if auto) and connect a jumper across the socket. There should be 12v on the jumper with the ign sw in crank position. If not, then unplug the 2 wires from above the steering column and insert ign key and measure the resistance across the unplugged wires. It should measure the same as the key pellet. If more than 4% different, connect a resistor the same value as the pellet across the socket in the wiring harness the 2 wires plugged into and try a crank.
I hope you didn't let your battery sit doing nothing for 6 months, if so, it is likely toast. Always use a battery tender on batteries sitting more than 4 weeks. Batteries self discharge even disconnected and left that way the plates sulfate and you cannot charge them and they become door stops. They may supply enough current to see a spark when connecting them, but not enough current to do anything else. A fully charged battery will measure 12.9 volts or higher and a discharged battery is 12.0 volts or lower and linear in between.

Last edited by jfb; Sep 15, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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Default 93 won't crank

Not to hijack op, but I have same problem. Ran fine yesterday, but will not crank today. Full battery, but nothing using key. One post mentioned vats. What are issues with this? Would this prevent cranking? Maybe op and myself will benefit.
Thanks, Don
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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I want to thank all of you for your comments and suggestions. I will just have to be patient and getter dun!
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by don peters
Not to hijack op, but I have same problem. Ran fine yesterday, but will not crank today. Full battery, but nothing using key. One post mentioned vats. What are issues with this? Would this prevent cranking? Maybe op and myself will benefit.
Thanks, Don
Read my post above yours!
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