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I was at a Corvette shop last night and measured up a C3 diff, which was very similar with wise. I know people make adapters to go from a D36 to a D44, I wondering if I can make one to go from a D44 (or a D36) to a C3
I don't think this could be done. The old style trailing arms are a lot different where they bolt / pivot on the frame. I would think some major fabrication would be needed in these 2 areas. And maybe some modificatios bolting the differential to the crossmeber as well.
I think if it could be done, it already would have been done in the last 25 years.
I reread your question and it sunk in. You just want to know if the differential would bolt in and that's it huh? I don't think that would work either though.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Well, you can make anything fit if you're willing to do some work (or pay the tab for someone else to do it). I went the opposite direction (adapting a C4 suspension to a C3 differential) in my '69.
I would think the trans to differential beam would be easily modified to bolt up to the area where the C3 pinion bracket went (along with some additional gusseting if necessary). I've seen that guy (at one of the custom C3 frame places) machine out a custom batwing for some projects of his. Probably not cheap, but it would be a bolt-in if you told him what you wanted to do. I had to do some cutting and welding (I contracted out the aluminum welding, as I'm still on the learning curve regarding aluminum) on my batwing to make things fit. Perhaps some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together) would get you there.
I'm pretty sure custom width halfshafts would be required.
Just some thoughts off the top of my head.
The old style trailing arms are a lot different where they bolt / pivot on the frame. I would think some major fabrication would be needed in these 2 areas. And maybe some modificatios bolting the differential to the crossmeber as well. .
I would be using the cast iron center only and keeping the C4 suspension with custom halfshafts as mentioned above. If doing this much work ; nothing to fab a mount for the C4 camber arms to the C3 center. Is going to need a custom cross member because the C3 diff mounts appear further back ( above the spring ) than the C4 batwing
Originally Posted by 69427
Perhaps some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together) would get you there.
He doesn't want to use the late C3 alum diff because that is just a weaker version of the C4 D44 ; has smaller pinion shaft
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
[QUOTE=rodj;1571579585]I would be using the cast iron center only and keeping the C4 suspension with custom halfshafts as mentioned above. If doing this much work ; nothing to fab a mount for the C4 camber arms to the C3 center. Is going to need a custom cross member because the C3 diff mounts appear further back ( above the spring ) than the C4 batwing
He doesn't want to use the late C3 alum diff because that is just a weaker version of the C4 D44 ; has smaller pinion shaft[/QUOTE]
Apparently you're not aware that the aluminum batwing will bolt to the iron housing. The bolt pattern is functionally identical. If you look closer, you'll see an iron housing in my picture above.
Why are several posts wasting their time talking about C3 Dana rears?????
Because you mentioned it
Originally Posted by 69427
some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together)
.
We were of the understanding you were suggesting to use the late diff because you failed to mention that the iron case would bolt to the alum batwing.
Moser & Strange sell a 12 bolt for the 3rd/4th Gen F-Bodys which has a torque arm mount cast into the center section. It is on the wrong side but it's there. By using just the center & shortening the axle tube mounts it "might" accomplish your end goal.
Moser & Strange sell a 12 bolt for the 3rd/4th Gen F-Bodys which has a torque arm mount cast into the center section. It is on the wrong side but it's there. By using just the center & shortening the axle tube mounts it "might" accomplish your end goal.
just flip the axle.. 4x4 guys do it to ease the driveline angles. you would need different gears though