C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

C3 diff in a C4?

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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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Default C3 diff in a C4?

I asked this question over in another thread...

Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Ok here's another thought

You can put a 12bolt diff in a C3 Corvette center section.

Tom's differential has all the parts can can build 7 seccond NHRA legal setup.



A Bulletproof '63-'79 Corvette IRS Setup That's NHRA-Legal To 7.50S
http://hotrod.automotive.com/79266/0...tup/index.html

I was at a Corvette shop last night and measured up a C3 diff, which was very similar with wise. I know people make adapters to go from a D36 to a D44, I wondering if I can make one to go from a D44 (or a D36) to a C3

thought?
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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I don't think this could be done. The old style trailing arms are a lot different where they bolt / pivot on the frame. I would think some major fabrication would be needed in these 2 areas. And maybe some modificatios bolting the differential to the crossmeber as well.

I think if it could be done, it already would have been done in the last 25 years.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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I reread your question and it sunk in. You just want to know if the differential would bolt in and that's it huh? I don't think that would work either though.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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No C beam in the C3. If you can engineer that in, its a good plan. The C3 dif up to 80 is all iron. Heavy duty stuff.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Well, you can make anything fit if you're willing to do some work (or pay the tab for someone else to do it). I went the opposite direction (adapting a C4 suspension to a C3 differential) in my '69.



I would think the trans to differential beam would be easily modified to bolt up to the area where the C3 pinion bracket went (along with some additional gusseting if necessary). I've seen that guy (at one of the custom C3 frame places) machine out a custom batwing for some projects of his. Probably not cheap, but it would be a bolt-in if you told him what you wanted to do. I had to do some cutting and welding (I contracted out the aluminum welding, as I'm still on the learning curve regarding aluminum) on my batwing to make things fit. Perhaps some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together) would get you there.
I'm pretty sure custom width halfshafts would be required.
Just some thoughts off the top of my head.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 65747785
The old style trailing arms are a lot different where they bolt / pivot on the frame. I would think some major fabrication would be needed in these 2 areas. And maybe some modificatios bolting the differential to the crossmeber as well. .
I would be using the cast iron center only and keeping the C4 suspension with custom halfshafts as mentioned above. If doing this much work ; nothing to fab a mount for the C4 camber arms to the C3 center. Is going to need a custom cross member because the C3 diff mounts appear further back ( above the spring ) than the C4 batwing

Originally Posted by 69427
Perhaps some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together) would get you there.
He doesn't want to use the late C3 alum diff because that is just a weaker version of the C4 D44 ; has smaller pinion shaft

Last edited by rodj; Sep 22, 2009 at 11:26 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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[QUOTE=rodj;1571579585]I would be using the cast iron center only and keeping the C4 suspension with custom halfshafts as mentioned above. If doing this much work ; nothing to fab a mount for the C4 camber arms to the C3 center. Is going to need a custom cross member because the C3 diff mounts appear further back ( above the spring ) than the C4 batwing



He doesn't want to use the late C3 alum diff because that is just a weaker version of the C4 D44 ; has smaller pinion shaft[/QUOTE]

Apparently you're not aware that the aluminum batwing will bolt to the iron housing. The bolt pattern is functionally identical. If you look closer, you'll see an iron housing in my picture above.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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even if the C3 D44 had an iron case, the guts of any D44 are weaker than a 12bolt

I want to keep my suspension, just use a 12bolt diff in a 10bolt case.

I've also thought about a 9in, but the custom cases are a lot wider, and the pumpkin goes in the front instead of having a cover on the back.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
even if the C3 D44 had an iron case, the guts of any D44 are weaker than a 12bolt

I want to keep my suspension, just use a 12bolt diff in a 10bolt case.

I've also thought about a 9in, but the custom cases are a lot wider, and the pumpkin goes in the front instead of having a cover on the back.
Why are several posts wasting their time talking about C3 Dana rears?????
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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hahahahahaha
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Why are several posts wasting their time talking about C3 Dana rears?????
Because you mentioned it

Originally Posted by 69427
some creative combination of late C3 and C4 batwings (cut and welded together)
.
We were of the understanding you were suggesting to use the late diff because you failed to mention that the iron case would bolt to the alum batwing.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rodj
Because you mentioned it

Where?
Go back and read my original post. There is nothing there that mentions a C3 D44.
.

We were of the understanding you were suggesting to use the late diff because you failed to mention that the iron case would bolt to the alum batwing.
You understood wrong.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:17 AM
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Moser & Strange sell a 12 bolt for the 3rd/4th Gen F-Bodys which has a torque arm mount cast into the center section. It is on the wrong side but it's there. By using just the center & shortening the axle tube mounts it "might" accomplish your end goal.
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by metal tech
Moser & Strange sell a 12 bolt for the 3rd/4th Gen F-Bodys which has a torque arm mount cast into the center section. It is on the wrong side but it's there. By using just the center & shortening the axle tube mounts it "might" accomplish your end goal.
just flip the axle.. 4x4 guys do it to ease the driveline angles. you would need different gears though
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