PBM Performance?
http://www.pbmperformance.com/store....&parent=0#2255
This kit contains:
SB CHEVY 383 FLAT TOP
QTY PART# COMPONENT
8 H860CP30 FEDERAL MOGUL PISTONS
1 2M139.030 HASTINGS MOLY RINGS
8 CB663P CLEVITE ROD BEARINGS
1 MS909P CLEVITE MAIN BEARINGS
1 M55HV MELLING HI VOL OIL PUMP
1 PBM92600 GASKET SET
1 E110040 PERF CAMSHAFT
224/234 .465 .488 114
16 HA817 PBM LIFTERS
1 CH8 DURA-BOND CAM BEARINGS
1 PE100B BRASS EXPANSION PLUG
1 PBM700 TIMING DUAL ROW 3 KEY
16 PBM3000 HYD VALVE SPRINGS
(1.250 OD 110# @1.700 300# @1.250 .500 LIFT)
1 PBM501S CHROME MOLY RETAINERS
1 PBM205 7 DEG HD KEEPERS
1 PBM70000 CRANKSHAFT 3.750
PART# 91383
Last edited by Mr. Dude; Sep 25, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
In that kit, the crank is an off shore (CHINA) made cast crank, the cam is a flat tappet generic grind from Elgin (who re boxes from Cam Machine Corp), the lifters are off shore mrgr, Timimg chain is probally SA Gear which is off shore, The vale springs, locks and retainers are all off shore copys of the once very good Pioneer "Z28 spring package" but they suck.
You will have to re use your stock connecting rods, buy a new harmonic balancer, and then have it balanced.
The brgs, oil pump, pistons and rings are good parts (if genuine) but keep in mind they are just stock replacement stuff.
90% of the parts are from China. The cam won't work with anything resembling a TPI induction system which is good because those offshore mfgr lifters which have been killing camshafts for about the past 6-7 yrs since they first started showing up here would knock a lobe off it while you adjusted the valves on the engine stand. Of course the valve springs will be dead after cam breakin so maybe... just maybe, it wouldn'd go flat... but I won't bet on it.
I'm sorry to be so harsh - but 90% of those parts arn't worth the Chinese beer cans they were cast from.
Will
Thanks very much, that's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I figured most of the stuff would be Chinese knock off's but you never know and I had to check for sure. Do you have any suggestions for a decent 383 kit that won't break the bank?
I would suggest you buy a kit from Eagle or Scat. The cranks and rods are imported but they have a decent reputation for quality and an the companies have an exellant reputation for making any parts that do slip thru QC, good. They both have a number of rotating assy kits with forged pistons that cost under $1000.00 easily. They both also have kits for more mild applications with hyper pistons in the $650-$750 range.
Of the Mail Order vendors for them I would suggest CNC-Motorsports.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=9048
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=9001
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=20134
If you want all USA mfgr'd parts the cheapest you are going to get is Howards. Its not that cheap but it is very, very good quality stuff that is all made right here. $1800.00 and up is the going rate for an all USA built kit.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/d...s.asp?dept=198
For a cam/lifter/spring recomendation I'd need to know your performance expectations. I'd HIGHLY suggest you get a hyd roller even for the mildest engine... EPA forced changes in the oil industry are going to make flat tappet cams for everyday cars go the way of the dinosaur very soon. Since Reed cams is out of business now, I primarily buy from Mike Jones Cams with Bullet and Howards on standby if Mike can't grind me what I want.
Will










