I plan on dropping the new motor in this week, and i have a list of stupid questions i need answers to before i turn the key for the first time. I purchased an 86 short block, stock, rebuilt. Stock aluminum heads{Put about 300 miles on them before spun bearing} My first question is: How do i get the oil around the engine before starting? I figured i'd fill the oil filter before installing. Should i pour some of the oil on the pushrods, and cam before putting on intake manifold? I know there are people reading this, thinking, "This guy should NOT be doing this" But believe it or not, i do stuff like this all the time. Someone told me to disconnect the batt. terminal from the distributor cap, and turn the key for a few seconds, to circulate the oil. Is there anything else i need to do? Also because there was a spun bearing, i'm told there are steel particles throughout the engine, and everything that is being reused should be professionally cleaned {Everything that had oil flow through it} Including the oil pan, and valve covers? Can't i clean things like that myself? Any input will be helpfull.
Thanks,
Mike

 

It's ALWAYS BEST to use an oil priming tool.

They're inexpensive and are available at many auto part stores. Cranking the engine to cause oil to flow is the "cut the corners" method causing parts to move without the benefit of oil pressure - NOT GOOD!

AutoZone and others may load the tool. Be sure to buy or borrow the type that allows oil to flow to the rocker arms. It'll have a round, aluminum bearing-like attachment that fits into the block as the tool is inserted.

The tool is inserted in the distributor hole in the intake manifold, then indexes with the oil pump drive rod and, using an electric drill (1/2" drive drills are best), the drill turns the tool forcing oil through the entire engine and build oil pressure.

I always screw a pressure gauge into the rear of the block (just to the driver's side of where the distributor installs) so I can watch the pressure as I prime the engine with oil.

In a fresh engine, I always use Valvoline VR1 20W50 Racing Oil because of it's excellent additive package. I also pour in a bottle of GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) available at most GM dealers' parts departments.

I prime the oiling system until I see oil flowing from ALL the rocker arms. A steady flow with no air bubbles exiting is what I look for. This takes several minutes and calls for the engine to be manually turned over several times. As the engine is manually turned over, with pauses for many seconds in between turns, oil is allowed to flow to different rocker arms.

Yes, pour generous amounts of oil into all the lifter bores, on the pushrods and the valve springs. I even apply moly lube to the tips of the pushrods. I also soak all the rockers and lifters in a pan of fresh engine oil at least over-night, turning the trunion and roller tips on the rocker arms to insure oil enters those bearings and any air is forced out.

Spinning a bearing causes bearing material to enter to oil galleries but are so fine that seldom will they cause a problem. Even wearing a distributor gear to the point that it fails rarely causes a problem since the particles are so fine. The only way to completely remove ALL the particles is to tear down the engine, removing all the oil gallery plugs and pressure clear the block, crank, rods, pistons, oil pan, etc.

I highly recommend the oil and filter be changed immediately after the engine first reaches normal operating temperture to remove any trapped particles. You can even cut open the oil filter and look between the pleats to see what's been captured.

Hope this helps.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

Thanks Jake,
Very informative reply. appreciate the help.

Mike

 

Ok, another stoopid question, I'm kinda embarassed asking questions like this, but when you're an amature doing things like this, you can't afford to cut ANY corners. I don't want to pull this motor again three months from now because i want to save a few bucks now. I'm being told if i reuse the oil cooler sandwich, and cylinder heads, without them being professionally cleaned, i'll be sorry. The heads were purchased several months ago, rebuilt stock heads, have maybe three hundred miles. I cleaned the crap out of them, and the sandwich, with brake cleaner. Please tell me thats enough. When i disassembled the old motor to get parts for new short block, there was pulverized steel in the oil, it did not feel gritty, i was just like grey oil in the pan.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Im not sure what an oil cooler sandwich is. If you mean a oil cooler radiator just flush it out.
Also stick a big magnet on the oilpan & get a magnetic drain plug.

 

Magnet is a real good idea, thanks. Oil cooler is the type that mounts between the oil filter, and the block. Has two hoses connected to it, coolant coming and going to radiator.

 

IMO i don't see the difference between just starting the engine and cranking it with the coil wire unhooked.. i would just use the priming tool just because and you can never have enough tools..

 

Your assembler (if professional) used "assembly lube" during the build process. This should be enough lube to get the oil pressure up and going.

If you don't feel good about that, then use Marvels Mystery Oil or some other two stroke oil to lubricate things during the initial start up phase.

Many times people use Vaseline or a mixture of 90w oil and MMO as an assembly lube. I hope your builder used something, but you seem cautious. Make your own mixture....you are looking at the Rings and lifters.....squirt some on there and turn the crank by hand.

Once you get it to fire, there will be a very brief period before the oil pressure builds....just make sure you don't count to 5-7 before you see that oil pressure rise.

Don't get scared when you see all the smoke from oily hands on exhaust components as temps rise.

 

Best advice I can give is NOT to build it the "alley mechanic" or "cut-corners" way. Follow the recommendations of those whose reputation relies on the longevity and performance of their engines. Oil priming tool - accept no substitute.

For many years I built engines for several teams and was able to maintain their trust by paying attention to detail. That included having the right tool for the job and properly using it. I never settled for the "as good as" way of thinking. Just do it RIGHT and be done with it.

When I bring a freshly machined engine home for assembly, I first wash it with hot soap and water at least five times, forced air dry it then oil ALL those surfaces prone to surface rust. So, thorough cleaning is fundamental. You can do the same with your heads, etc.

The cleaning doesn't have to be done by a machine shop (in fact I clean behind them too, not trusting cleaning to someone else who may be having a bad day).

The fewer deviations you make from generally accepted assembly procedures, the fewer variables you introduce into the engine build. The fewer the variables, the less likely the engine will suffer premature excessive wear or failure. The closer you pay attention to detail and the closer you hold your tolerances, the better your engine will run and the longer it will last.

If your head bolts call for a specific lubricant/thread sealant, use ONLY that. Don't fall into the "as good as" trap. Don't say: I don't have ARP's bolt lubricate so I'll use 30W oil because it's "as good as" . . . .

If your gaskets specify "Install Dry", do it. Don't apply silicone sealant here and there or spray something on the gasket surface.

Same with installing your balancer/ hub; don't hammer it on. Use an installer tool. A friend of mine use to install his harmonic balancer with a long handled sledge hammer. Ever watch a lumber-jack chopping down a tree? Made my hair stand on end.

Follow all the recommended torque specs; don't get sloppy or creative. Go over and double-check all the critical torque settings.

Check all your clearances as you go along. If something seems to not fit quite right, STOP - find out why. I could go on and on.

Learn to identify and ignore bad information of which there never seems to be a shortage.

Of course if you choose to take the "as good as" approach and/or cut corners, well it's your call since it's your engine.

Hope this helps.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

Thanks for the replies guys, i really do appreciate it. Today i installed heads, lifters, and intake manifold. Tomorrow i plan to drop it in, i'm sure i'll have a few more questions.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I was going to post a picture of my do it yourself priming tool, but I can't find it. (it's been a while) Anyway, there isn't much to it.

You take any old distributor and discard everything except the casting and the bare shaft. I turned the shaft down a bit on top so it would fit a 3/8 drill. Stick it in the hole and spin it.

 

Factory oil cooler fitted on some cars (was part of theZ51 package ). Fits between block and oil filter

 

Anyone have any tips on getting this damn thing in? It's almost like it don't fit. The sun went down, had to pack it up for the day. It came out as smooth as silk, getting it back in aint fun.

Mike

 

You have a Jack under the tranny?

 

Yes, i have a floor jack under the tranny.

 

Remember, that shaft has to line up pretty close to allow them to slide together. Also, don't be too proud to grab it and rock it/shake it back and forth

 

I actually had to take the engine back out and put it back on the stand while i figure this out. One of the electrical connections that plug into the trans is pretty damaged. I drove all over the state today looking for it, found out they don't make them anymore. Don't know what i'm going to do. I know this much though, i need to take the exhaust manifolds off to get that damn engine in. When i took it out, the intake, and heads were already off, made it alot easier. As far as shaking it back and forth, i'll go one better, i was standing on the intake jumping up and down. I just could'nt get it to fall into the drivers side motor mount. I had it in the passenger side mount, with the dowel pin insde the trans, but the other side just would'nt fall into place. I'm ready to roll this damn thing off a cliff.

Mike

 

Last time I had that problem, I loosely installed two bolts (trans to block) on the side that had dropped in place on the motor mount. Doing that prevented that side from popping out as I jostled the other side of the engine to drop in.

Then I re-adjusted the chain to allow the opposite side to lift more than the side that was in place. I left slack in the chain (which I believe was the greatest benefit) to allow me to be able to push and wiggle the side that's wasn't lined up. It turned out to be a two person job; my son working the hoist and me pushing and shoving and wiggling the engine.

After a few minutes of doing that, it dropped right in even with the exhaust manifolds bolted in place. Lining it up was more frustrating than usual, which I attribute to my old age and the 102F temps I was working in. We were working my son's 96 LT1.

Sometimes you simply need to take a break and have at it again once you've freshened up.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted on how you're making out and don't fret over asking us if you get stuck. Especially when it comes time to adjusting your lifter preload and installing your intake manifold (if you haven't already). Those two areas trip up a LOT of guys.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

if you get tired, take a break and sleep on it. it's a physical job, and watch those fingers. it always goes together better when your fingers are in there! tire irons work good to pry and shimmy.

 

It's been raining all morning, figured i'd come in an mess with you guys for a while. Thanks for the input, none of it is wasted. I spent the better part of a day searching, and driving, for an electrical connector {torque converter} holding up everything. Inaccessible after everything is put back together {for me anyway} Big thanks to rodj for directing me to that website. Part is on the way. Jake, when you say adjust the preload on lifters, do you mean adjusting the lash with push rods? Or did i forget to do something? because all i did was soak them in motor oil before dropping them in place. You guys seem pretty knowledgable, so if you say so, the intake is comming back off. I was renting the cherry picker, $35 a day, after having it so long, it was prudent for me to buy the thing off the guy. Sold it to me pretty cheap. Anyone want to buy a cherry picker?

Thanks,

Mike