90 climate control issues ????
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
What I can see you have a 1990 year car and the motor you ordered is a direct drive motor connecting right to the shaft of the mix door. If you drop the plastic panel (and side panels) above the passengers knee the motor should be visible. It is held on with 2, 7mm screws. One screw is easy with a ¼ “ ratchet, and one is a b***h. I use one of those flat, round, ball ratchet things for shallow places. Only need one screw to hold it for testing purposes.
Once the screws are out, pull straight down, it might be stuck at first. Go easy at first to avoid damage to door and shaft. Squeeze the connector release and it comes right off. Then you can slip the new motor on but pay attention to shaft position. I can only get my motor on in the cold position for some reason.
If you feel you don’t have the setup I have indicated, or I have an error in information, I am speaking from a 94 point of view. I just don’t think you have to pull the heater core or any stuff out.
Once the screws are out, pull straight down, it might be stuck at first. Go easy at first to avoid damage to door and shaft. Squeeze the connector release and it comes right off. Then you can slip the new motor on but pay attention to shaft position. I can only get my motor on in the cold position for some reason.
If you feel you don’t have the setup I have indicated, or I have an error in information, I am speaking from a 94 point of view. I just don’t think you have to pull the heater core or any stuff out.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
Here is a picture of what is blocking that blendoor motor. I suppose I could drill those rivets to get this thing out of the way. but once it is is there still enough room to pull that motor out? Was your 94 different then this or did you split the heater core case to gain access to your motor?
Also how do you determine the blendoor is in the right position before bolting the motor down or does it matter?
Also how do you determine the blendoor is in the right position before bolting the motor down or does it matter?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
I have no idea what I am looking at with that picture. The mix door (94) shaft comes out thru the bottom of the box inside the car. Except for the panels, very accessible. The shaft has 2 flat spots on it at 6 and 12:00. It fits only one way.
It appears now that the physical motor configuration is very different. However I would assume the principal of operation is the same even though your programmer is different also.
I can't really advise you on taking it apart, for what you really need is a 90 guy who has done this before. However I probably can help you with the electronics or some “94 schematics” if you need them.
It appears now that the physical motor configuration is very different. However I would assume the principal of operation is the same even though your programmer is different also.
I can't really advise you on taking it apart, for what you really need is a 90 guy who has done this before. However I probably can help you with the electronics or some “94 schematics” if you need them.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
I have no idea what I am looking at with that picture. The mix door (94) shaft comes out thru the bottom of the box inside the car. Except for the panels, very accessible. The shaft has 2 flat spots on it at 6 and 12:00. It fits only one way.
It appears now that the physical motor configuration is very different. However I would assume the principal of operation is the same even though your programmer is different also.
I can't really advise you on taking it apart, for what you really need is a 90 guy who has done this before. However I probably can help you with the electronics or some “94 schematics” if you need them.
It appears now that the physical motor configuration is very different. However I would assume the principal of operation is the same even though your programmer is different also.
I can't really advise you on taking it apart, for what you really need is a 90 guy who has done this before. However I probably can help you with the electronics or some “94 schematics” if you need them.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
Just an update
I replaced the blen-door actuator motor today and tested it to where I could see the blen-door working. If I select cold temps (all tests with key on motor off) the blen-door closes over the heater core. When I select a hotter temp the blen-door now goes to full close in the other direction (before it used to stop about 1/2 way and just oscilate and I always heard the old motor constantly runnimg.
I did take my old blen-door motor apart to see if there were any signs as to why it was doing the oscilating figuring I'de find stripped gears or something broken. However none were found I also found no signs of corrosion in it like others have found in theirs that were giving them problems.
I am hoping this has solved my problem. I did run the system about 20 times and it always did the same thing. So just cause everything looks fine in these motors don't assume it is.
I replaced the blen-door actuator motor today and tested it to where I could see the blen-door working. If I select cold temps (all tests with key on motor off) the blen-door closes over the heater core. When I select a hotter temp the blen-door now goes to full close in the other direction (before it used to stop about 1/2 way and just oscilate and I always heard the old motor constantly runnimg.
I did take my old blen-door motor apart to see if there were any signs as to why it was doing the oscilating figuring I'de find stripped gears or something broken. However none were found I also found no signs of corrosion in it like others have found in theirs that were giving them problems.
I am hoping this has solved my problem. I did run the system about 20 times and it always did the same thing. So just cause everything looks fine in these motors don't assume it is.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,689
Likes: 4
From: Yucaipa CA
Pcolt
I read your thread and funny thing is the blen-door motor I received is identical to the one you pictured but is quite a bit internally different then the one that came out of the car. Some guy sent me a link to the one I bought but I can't seem to find it. You should replace the motor did wonders for my car.
Yours sounds just like what mine was doing. I could have the a/c on then all of a sudden it would start blowing warmer air and vice versa.
That orange gear in your picture seems to be a position sensor thing so I'm thinking thats the cause of the problem.
I will try and find the link to the motor I bought. I got it for like 68.00 shipped.
I read your thread and funny thing is the blen-door motor I received is identical to the one you pictured but is quite a bit internally different then the one that came out of the car. Some guy sent me a link to the one I bought but I can't seem to find it. You should replace the motor did wonders for my car.
Yours sounds just like what mine was doing. I could have the a/c on then all of a sudden it would start blowing warmer air and vice versa.
That orange gear in your picture seems to be a position sensor thing so I'm thinking thats the cause of the problem.
I will try and find the link to the motor I bought. I got it for like 68.00 shipped.
Last edited by jeffp1167; Nov 1, 2009 at 09:40 PM.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Mandeville Louisiana
Yes,you have to pull the heater core out so that you can get the front half of the heater core housing removed. Be aware that there are bolts coming through from the front of the firewall, so you will have to open up the evaporator housing as well.
I just did it on my 1991 ZR-1. I ended up having to remove the evaporator housing and evaporator to get at the bolts on the firewall. This, of course, involved recovering the freon, evacuating system and recharging as well. It was definitely more than twice the work of a heater core replacement. It took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 12-16 hours, but I was feeling my way through it.
Good luck! I don't ever want to have to do this again, EVER!!
Jep
I just did it on my 1991 ZR-1. I ended up having to remove the evaporator housing and evaporator to get at the bolts on the firewall. This, of course, involved recovering the freon, evacuating system and recharging as well. It was definitely more than twice the work of a heater core replacement. It took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 12-16 hours, but I was feeling my way through it.
Good luck! I don't ever want to have to do this again, EVER!!
Jep
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Likes: 29
From: Delanson New York
Here is a picture of what is blocking that blendoor motor. I suppose I could drill those rivets to get this thing out of the way. but once it is is there still enough room to pull that motor out? Was your 94 different then this or did you split the heater core case to gain access to your motor?
Also how do you determine the blendoor is in the right position before bolting the motor down or does it matter?
Also how do you determine the blendoor is in the right position before bolting the motor down or does it matter?
Any chance you could post the photo or attach to a PM for me? Thanks in advance.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 674
Likes: 235
From: Louisville Kentucky
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