I bought my 95 vette 3 months ago and the owner did not have the keyless entry with it. I finally bought one for $130 and it came today. I followed the instructions; press trip/odo 2 times then within 5 sec. press and hold fuel/info untill the PKE light comes on. THE LIGHT DOESN'T COME ON! The light also does not come on then i first turn the key. i thought maybe the light had been dead so i tried going through with the installation blind ( possible i could have messed up because it was blind) STILL DIDN'T WORK! can anyone help. Thanks in advance -Matt

 

Looks like you did it right. Check out this post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...stem-help.html

 

The only time you get a light (PKE) is when the system is active. There is no bulb check.

 

It may sound silly being that it's a new FOB, but I'd check the battery. Even being 'new', that thing could have sat on a shelf for years. I had to replace my battery only a few months after buying it.

 

If the light didn't come on then more then likely its your receiver.

I did the exact same thing, car didn't come with one, followed all the instructions and nothing.

Studied the FSM and followed all the possibilities and that is what it ended up being I think.

I purchased a new receiver, but I haven't installed it yet.

Laura

 

The battery in the key FOB has nothing at all to do with getting the PKE into programming mode. The biggest external problem to the PKE is the contact in the key switch. But this would not affect the 2 second test when the ignition key is turned to on. The 2 second test is basically the self test and says that it is alive, unless it is in sleep mode. But it will still go into programming mode. Have you checked the PKE fuse?

You can try to disconnect the battery and re-set the whole system and see if that does any good. Turn key and see if light comes on.

Chances are if the light is not coming on the PKE module is defective. If the PKE light will not come on when you try to go into programming mode, this is another indication the PKE is bad.

There is a remote chance the bulb is burned out. Pieces of the center console has to be removed to get to the bulb in the light panel (DIC). There is a detailed troubleshooting procedure that would be in the FSM. However most people with this problem wind up replacing the receiver.

There is a specific test that can be done by connecting 2 pins together in the ALDL connector. However this will not work for you because it uses the PKE light and if you can not see the light lit ever, then you can’t get the error code. And if it is dead nothing will happen anyway.

They can cost $100 to $300 depending if new or used and where you but them. The top pad on the dash has to come off the gain access. There are no good shortcuts and it will take you a day if you have never done it before. Also there is a progression of order of what comes off first to get access to the next set of screws and panels. If you are to aggressive on a 13 year old car the plastic can break real easy, be careful and using the FSM is the best way to go.

 

Thanks very much for the info, I will check the fuse first and i have taken the dash apart before so i can check the bulb too, I do not have an FSM, could you elaborate on some of the first things i should check? also i have tryed disconnecting the bat. and finally where can I buy a receiver. This is a dumb question to be asking now but.. did all 95's come with it?

 

Fuses for the PKE as

1. #26 Pke module

2. #40

3. #42

If the radio works you can eliminate #40.

Suggest you try & run diagnostics. Have you tried to do this as yet?

Alos check that the door key locks are in the vertical position & I would also check under the seats, door storage compartments & the pass/storgage compartments for a fob. Never can tell!

 

yes, they all had the PKE feature.

 

Thnks i will try them, no i have not tried diagnostics before?, what do you mean by"check that the door key locks are in the vertical position", and i have checked everywhere for the fob thanks( i had everything out of the car all the way down thew seats and carpet when i was installing all my stereo equipment. thanks for the help so far

 

Just make sure your door locks are in the3 normal position, that it the key is in the vertical position.

Also, next time you try to program the fob, when it comes time to turn the key "off"..jigggle the key in the ignition. I know it sounds silly, but another member some time found his problem in that manner.

If you want to try diagnostics, I'll pm you my e=mail. It doesn't take very long & if will just eliminate another possibility. pcolt 94 is probably right about it being the module.

 

So I have checked all the fuses, they are fine. It seems to me that what I should be doing now it get to the bulb and check it, if the bulb is not burnt out then It seems that i have no other option but to buy a PKE receiver. does this seem like i'm heading in the right direction?

 

I believe he (Red) means on the outside of the car where you put in the key into the lock. Make sure that when the key is removed that the lock or entrance way is vertical as the key is removed.



I would say basically yes. Chances of finding a bad bulb is remote, but it is still something to check. The self test of the bulb driven by the PKE receiver is a test which is pretty much self contained by the PKE itself. There really are no outside inputs which affect that 2 second self test. Just to reiterate, if all was working normal the only time the lamp would not light is if it was in sleep mode.

And since your remote has not yet been programmed to the receiver, you could not bring it out if you wanted to. However going into programming mode does bring it out and if you can’t get the lamp to light for programming, that would indicate the receiver is bad.