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Mine had similar problems, idle bounced around more than it should have and would go nuts when above 2500/3000 rpm. Mine was the tach filter going bad. I bypassed it and it cleaned up the tach a lot. I've since installed an ignition amp and used the tach output from that, and the gauge is rock solid.
Ditto on the tach filter. However, instead of bypassing it, I bought a new one from Eckler's and installed it last night, and it fixed the problem. It wavered between erratic and non-functional.
Didn't know you could just bypass it and go directly to the tach, I thought that might not be good for the digital system.
I have and 84 when at idle the tach reads "0". Driving, the tach spikes all over the place. Any ideas how to fix this?
Thanks
Might be a simple as checking the "white" wire that comes out of the top portion of the distributor coil. Ensure the wire is seated all the way, making good contact and undamaged to the point of the tach filter (located on the top back of the engine block near the oil pressure switch). If that portion is good then address the tach filter and the rest of the wiring/connection points.
You also might want to know that there is a way to check the filter. For this you will need a volt/ohm meter (preferably digital). I don't remember the exact protocol, it came with the filter that I bought from Eckler's, and I don't have it at hand. If no one posts this information before this evening, I will try to find those directions and get this to you.
It might be worth knowing for sure if the tach filter is for sure the culprit before you spring for one.
OK, here's the info on testing that came with the Eckler's new tach filter:
Using your ohm meter probe both lead wires. You should get a reading of about 15,000 ohms across both lead wires. If you get this reading, take one of the probe leads and touch the black ground wire. You should have close to 0 ohms. This shows that the tach filter has continuity and is not shorted to ground internally. If the tach filter passes both of these tests, the signal from the distributor will pass through to the tach. If your tach does not work, it is not because of the tach filter.
I did NOT run this test on my tach filter, but I was apparently right in assuming that it was bad, since replacing it fixed everything.