LT4 vs. LT1

I have an LT4 and I'll take an LS1 over it every day of the week and twice on Sundays. LS1's are better in every single way.
Its pretty widely accepted that 300 RWHP translates to approximately 350 crank HP. The C4 drivetrain is certainly no more efficient than the C5's, so when they both make the same rear wheel numbers its pretty safe to assume the crank numbers are similar.
I have an LT4 and an LT1. If you're going to leave them stock, get the LT4. I have seen no one paying a premium for the LT4 cars. If you're going to modify them extensively, get whatever is in the best shape that comes along first.
Its pretty widely accepted that 300 RWHP translates to approximately 350 crank HP. The C4 drivetrain is certainly no more efficient than the C5's, so when they both make the same rear wheel numbers its pretty safe to assume the crank numbers are similar.
I have an LT4 and an LT1. If you're going to leave them stock, get the LT4. I have seen no one paying a premium for the LT4 cars. If you're going to modify them extensively, get whatever is in the best shape that comes along first.
My '99 Formula LS1/T56 did 310 RWHP, with 140K miles, so if the LT4 is actually under-rated, the LS1 is just as under-rated.
But you are absolutely right: stock for stock the LT4 is probably worth the cash over an LT1, but if you're going to modify it, the differences are actually pretty small.

Underrated or not, the LT4 is not a LS1 period. If you want to gain 150~200+ HP with bolt ons, you need a LS3.
if you don't buy the car because it is has 2k miles and is lt4, then get what ever you want, because once you start modding it won't matter in the end.
you will end up doing the same mods to both.
headers,heads, cam,gears, then you have a far superior car to both lt's and stock LS.
Its pretty widely accepted that 300 RWHP translates to approximately 350 crank HP. The C4 drivetrain is certainly no more efficient than the C5's, so when they both make the same rear wheel numbers its pretty safe to assume the crank numbers are similar.
I have an LT4 and an LT1. If you're going to leave them stock, get the LT4. I have seen no one paying a premium for the LT4 cars. If you're going to modify them extensively, get whatever is in the best shape that comes along first.
If you're modding it doesn't make much difference.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Its pretty widely accepted that 300 RWHP translates to approximately 350 crank HP. The C4 drivetrain is certainly no more efficient than the C5's, so when they both make the same rear wheel numbers its pretty safe to assume the crank numbers are similar.
I have an LT4 and an LT1. If you're going to leave them stock, get the LT4. I have seen no one paying a premium for the LT4 cars. If you're going to modify them extensively, get whatever is in the best shape that comes along first.



we get it "the LS-x is superior"...
Hey Mojave, Why the heck didn't you just swap an Ls-x into your c4 instead of spending the tons of cash on the rebuild? OR better, why didn't you just source a tired c5? they go for like (i've seen) 9K-11K?
not trying to argue, but curious. Clearly, the C5 and LS-x is superior to the c4 (LT-x)... so why have you continously taken kicks to the nuts with the LT-x issues and c4 issues?
we get it "the LS-x is superior"...
Hey Mojave, Why the heck didn't you just swap an Ls-x into your c4 instead of spending the tons of cash on the rebuild? OR better, why didn't you just source a tired c5? they go for like (i've seen) 9K-11K?
not trying to argue, but curious. Clearly, the C5 and LS-x is superior to the c4 (LT-x)... so why have you continously taken kicks to the nuts with the LT-x issues and c4 issues?
The LS swap is NOT trivial. I takes as much (or more) time and money as a stout LTx rebuild. The payoff is ultimately in it's longevity.
But you're right, starting wtih the C5 platform a long time ago would have been the right move. Absolutely. It's simply better performing in every way (can't wait for the flamers to come out on that comment).
That said, however, staring at a $15,000 to $25,000 bill for a new car vs a $5,000 bill for a new motor is different. If I (we) had known that the $5,000 bill would very quickly turn into three to five times that, perhaps the decisions would have been different. Mojave and I have probably both spent that in spades over the last three years, but not all at once.
Hindsight is always 20/20.
Anyone want to buy a C4?
Last edited by ScaryFast; Oct 28, 2009 at 09:47 AM.
OK, Ill be first to take the bait. But where do you get 40RWHP? Most 6sp. LT1's will dyno between 270-280 stock on a dynojet. A LT4 will go 300-310 at best. Then go a step further. Look at track times. I know Mr. Mojo went 12.99 on a LT1 6sp. What are the best LT4 numbers out there? Keep in mind we are talking bone stock including tires.
Bottom line, I think most motors are slightly under rated. They dont want to get caught like Mazda did with the RX8.
Heck, when it comes to the best motor, LT wise, a 2 bolt camaro motor is best. It can be splayed to a 4 bolt and be the strongest.

This thread started to get better 2/10 now

The corvette motor has caps holding the main bearings, that are bolted in with 4 bolts. These are drilled straight in. The camaro has only 2 bolts holding the cap. You can add 2 additional bolts, but splay them at a angle. This makes the caps and block stronger, able to take more power.
Therefore, the camaro block has the ability to be stronger then the corvette block if modified.















