It's another.

So in an attempt to fix the idle issue on my '92 LT1, I picked up a new TPS (cheap, easy to install, the original is 18 years old, and it might just solve my problem). I disconnect the negative battery cable, unclip the wire harness from the original TPS, unscrew the two Torx fasteners, remove the old TPS, install the new one, attach and reconnect everything, connecting the negative battery cable last.

Jump in the car, turn the key to on and just let it sit there for about 20 seconds to let the ECM pick up a reading from the new TPS. Turn it off, then turn it back on, let it sit for a few more seconds, and then turn the key to start it. I get a "'click" from the starter, and then all of the lights go out. Literally, all of the dash and interior lights just go out. I turn the key back, take it out, put it back in and turn it; nothing. No lights. No starter cranking. Nothing.

The same thing happened about a week ago when I made an attempt to install the ring connectors for a Battery Tender cable. I began to loosen the negative battery cable bolt, decided to use the clamp connector cable instead, and simply re-tightened the bolt. The car did the very same thing that day too, but when I slightly loosened the negative cable bolt, the lights came back on and the car started right up.

So I fiddle with the negative cable bolt, loosening and re-tightening it trying to get it properly connected, and trying to start the car every time the interior lights came back on, all with the same "click-lights out-nothing" results. I might point out that the car also has a Clifford alarm system that was installed by a previous owner. I discovered that the alarm system has a cable that attaches to the negative terminal that allows the Clifford-brand remote for the door locks, hatch release, etc. to work. I determined this by trying to connect the negative cable without the alarm cable and trying to start the car. I didn't even get a "click"; just lights out and no starting. The remote for the door locks also didn't work with the cable removed as well. I assume that the alarm has some sort of starter interrupt if it's not properly connected/grounded.

At one point, when the lights went out when I was trying to start the car, I removed and reinserted the key a couple of times and for a split second, the interior lights flickered but went back out.

Also, during all of the adjusting of the negative battery cable bolt, I realize that the bolt is, for the most part stripped. I can tighten it to a certain point, but it gets loose again if you continue tightening. Apparently I get enought of a connection to turn on the interior lights, but not engough to start the car. The battery terminals on these cars SUCK. What lame design for something so important. In looking at the cable, it appears that the bolt that goes through the loop at the end of the cable cannot be removed either, so as to replace it. Crap!

Anyway, I guess I have two questions. 1) Does this sound like a possible ignition switch/Pass Key issue? 2) What is going to be required to get a proper negative cable connection again? Will I need to replace the entire negative cable and the battery as well? It appears that the female threads that the bolt screws into may be stripped as well. Do Corvette batteries have holes instead of terminal posts?

What a mess.

Many thanks.

Regards,

Ron

 

Just the terminal bolt can be replaced, you just need to push it out of the cable end (it can take a bit of effort). New battery bolts cost about $5/pair - should be available at most any auto parts store. If the female threads in the battery are also stripped, you'll need a new battery. Good luck.

 

Sounds like you need a new battery if the terminals are stripped. Not sure if anyone has tapped them for a larger bolt or helicoiled a battery.

 

Been there done that. Stripped battery terminals will do this every time. I doubt that the terminal in the battery is stripped, probably just the cable connector. AutoZone really cheap really easy to fix.

 

Sounds to me as though you may have some poor grounding or wiring related to the aftermarket alarm system to begin with. In trying to resolve this, you've stripped the negative battery connection which, as said above is relatively easy to repair if it's not the female threads stripped.

I'd be looking into the alarm system wiring, or just remove it completely. The previous owner had installed a Python system on mine and it took a while to trace it all down, but it's GONE now

 

The battery terminal is very easy to strip out. Been there, done that. The bolt that goes into the terminal is usually only 3/8" deep and a little too much umph is all that is needed.

 

Ron, re-read post #2. Its a $2.00 battery bolt sold at all auto parts stores and even Walmart.

 

Me to

I had to replact my bolts couple years back.

Just use a short 1/4" ratchet to tighten, not a 1/2 inch braker bar.

 

The bolts on the cable will strip before the terminals in the battery will, unless you're using a breaker bar

 

If this is the biggest problem you have, you are 1 lucky fella.
I just had head gaskets replaced. Now THAT was a problem. (before)
Problem solved, for now!!!

 

 

Okay, I overreacted.

I yanked the old battery cable bolt out of the cable, picked up some new ones, popped one in, connected the cable and she fired right up.

:o

You're right Jimbo; my problems are nothing.

Not only that, but the new TPS seems to have corrected the idle issue too. We'll see over the next few times I drive her, but she ran very nice tonight.

A million thanks to everyone who responded. This forum is a great resource for old 'Vette lovers and there are some really helpful people here.

Ron