Found Joes great instructions on your vatssucks.com website. My 88 in the midst of changing the coolant, decided to not start the next time. I did the quick check at the clutch start, jumped it, and no 12 volts, so it pointed me to the starter enable relay. I followed the bypass, even got a new one. The new relay did nothing, but when I jumped terminals A and E, the engine cranked, but would not start (like its getting no fuel). So at least I know its not the starter, starter enable relay, clutch start switch. So it seems like it has something to do with the other wire coming to the starter relay, the small green wire going to the VATS module. SO, does that mean the VATS module is bad? Could it still be the pass key ignition switch, as I havent tried that yet. Maybe I should just buy the $25 part and see if that works first? Or is it the ECM? Of course you mention the VATS fuel enable signal, two options to get around that. Lets say I dont want to bypass it, what do I need to replace or repair, other than the relay I already tried, the ignition switch, then what, the ECM of VATS module?

Thanks for the help., the vettes sitting out in the driveway and winter is approaching. I hate to get it towed to a GM dealer, but I might have to!

 

Do yourself a huge favor and buy the vats bypass connection, it takes 2 minutes to install and you will never have to guess if that is the problem on a no start situation. You can go nuts troubleshooting the vats system, and it will work/not work intermittently when it starts to go, the worst kind of problem to troubleshoot.

After installing bypass You want to install an ignition cut-off/kill switch so you have a theft protection system, $15 in parts, easy to do yourself or pay dealer 1 hour labor charge to install.
A well placed kill switch is the way to go, take this advice from someone who has had vats problem.
PS. I FOUND MID AMERICA PART EASIEST TO USE, YOU CAN STILL USE OLD VATS KEYS, NO REASON TO REPLACE, AND THEIR INSTRUCTIONS THE EASIEST. DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL THE KILL SWITCH AS STATED BEFORE, THEY WILL 99.999% NMEVER START THE CAR TO ROB IT. http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=3.863

 

Try another ignition key.
Clean pellet with alcohol and try again.
The ECM should store a code 46, if VATS has been triggered.
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2046.pdf

 

The doors have a switch around the keyholes to arm the Vats...they do go bad sometimes....make sure you turn the key in them back and forth to disarm the vats.The security light on the dash will freeze when its armed or flash when its not armed.

Make sure the key comes out straight too.

 

Thanks guys, I should have just listed to vatssucks.com, and started with the ignition lock, the most common failure! I bypassed it with some resistors, after testing the lock with the key in it and getting not resistance, so its the wiring to the ignition, or the contacts, whatever it is in need a new ignition lock. The bypass works for now. I know I can get a new ignition lock, but then need new VATS keys. Is there anyway to re-key the new lock to match my exisiting key shape? Since i have three VATS keys, I hate to waste them and have to by new ones. I know locks can be re-key, just not sure about these paticulare ignitions locks.

Thanks for the help!

 

I too have a VATS problem in my 89 it came up on a recent scan and maybe contributing to my poor drivability issues among other things. I’d like to take the easy way out and use the bypass where do you purchase one and where on the car is the VATS located? Thanks

 

VATS affects starting ONLY

VATS Bypass Instructions
http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/89_passkey.htm

 

Thanks Rodj, I guess this won’t do me much good though. I only have one ignition key and it does not have a resistor pellet so I’ll have to assume it has already been bypassed.? The car starts but during a scan it says it has a VATS problem so I guess it’s not going to be a problem being it doesn’t affect the running condition.