You are talking about the Claimer's, right? Wouldn't their 4032 FHR series be fine for the OP? (i.e., low noise/oil) That is certainly one of my options -- and the cheapest, "best one" IMO.

And, their 18cc dish is a good choice with a 383 (re)using a 58cc head.

 

In my opinion, sure. I have a set of used KB's that I hated because they made a little noise, and used a little oil when cold. Once I ran my first 10 second ET on them, I grew fond of them.
I built 8 or 10 motors with different types of KB's, set them to the minimum recommended wall clearances, and all made some noise, even when engine was warm. I just accept them as a noisy piston. As hard as I tried, I never hurt one.

 

I have noticed the opposite to be more common. The cheap cast cranks always seem to be external on the nose, and the better forged cranks neutral.

 

OK, I droped the block off and the bottom end should be here next week. I ended up with Scat crank & I-beam rods with SRP forged pistons with a 10cc dish for 10.3:1 comp. I didn't realize they are made by JE. I am having the block decked cyl. bored/honed and bottom line bored thats about it I will attempt the rest myself. I have afew more questions.

1.) Any reccomendations on head gaskets?

2.) I can get my throttle body bored and new bushings/butterfly's cheap for a 52mm setup. Is this Ok for my needs or is 58mm a must?

3.) what is an allaround good cam spec with 1:5 or 1:6 rocker arms?

4.) I assume the usaual on valves 2.0" and 1.6" ?

5.) Vavle springs?


And last of all I was thinking of recoping some of my expenses by selling my old rotatind assembly including flexplate . Any suggestion what these parts are worth?

Thanks for all your help!

 

after writing that i would say that the 3.48 stroke cranks are mostly balanced internally in the front and externally in the rear and that stroker cranks tend to be externally balanced front and rear.

 

1) I like felpro. If you need a .039 thick gasket to achieve the compression ratio you are looking for, the 7733-PT2 works fine.
They are priced right, and seal well.
2) 52 should work fine.
3) Depends on may things. Intake, compression, rpm band needed etc.
4) What heads?
5) Don't even consider springs until your mind is made up on cam and heads.

I tried selling a used rotating assembly for $100, and could not even get an offer.

 

OK more info for cam help.

1.) Stock manifold with cleaned up runners 52MM TB

2.) Stock heads cleaned up runners and blended bowles. I think 2.0 and 1.6 undercut valves unless told otherwise. good 3 or 5 angle valve job. roller rockers ratio will depend on cam I would suppose?

3.) Stock compression maybe a tad more. nothing over 11:1 very most.


4.) This will be 95% street driven. I currently have 2:53 rear gears. will probably go to 3:07 in the future. I will probably go with a 2,200-2,400 stall speed before putting the egine back in the car.

5.) Edelbrock shorty headers with free flowing exhaust.


OK ! give me your best guess on some specs for cam and rocker arm ratio. Thanks again.

 

I'd go with either a Comp Cam 268XFI or LPE219 cam with 1.6 full roller rockers.

 

With stock gears and heads, you might want to stay a hair on the low side (duration), but not "necessary". Most people shoot between 224-230 duration on the intake side for a 383. And, that's for a street car. You're also going to be a bit better off with some split using the stock heads. Pick from the COMP HR, XE, or XFI lobes -- depending on how aggressive you like/want your cam. Personally, I'd go stiffer on the springs with an XE or XFI lobe -- but I'm overly cautious.

Without longtubes and with a short-runner intake, there a little bit of a case for staying smaller on the cam duration (to get good low-end torque). So, 224 might be the most you should go. With stock heads, that might be the least you should go as well. That means my vote is for a 224/230ish cam. You'll definitely need/want 1.6 rockers to get the valves open far enough. The 218/224 cam is still a good choice too -- if you're primarily concerned with low-end performance, but a 383 is going to help with that!

And, stay below 10.5 compression if you want to keep tuning easier and/or threat of detonation lower. With stock heads, consider staying below 10.2 -- according to my builder. Cooling system and temps can help -- if you really want to push it higher. (FWIW: One high-profile engine builder/parts house said too many of their motors over 10.5 have detonation issues. With older stock heads, a case can be made for not pushing your luck to 10.5.)

For pistons, I [really] like the SRP Pro specs best (16cc), Wiseco (20cc) next best, and the KB FHR (18cc) for the best price. These are all 4032 alloy which requires less clearance than 2618. Should stay quite. All 3 of these pistons have an inverted dome for good quench. Stay below .050 and shoot for under .045" if possible. Don't go too much below .040" to avoid clearance problems.

Oh yeah...If you haven't already figured it out, Eagle makes an LT1(/L98) crank that allows use of stock damper/FW. It's the one that ends with 57E. Using a Scat would force the use of an external front balancer.

 

What do you mean by .050-.045 clearance? where?

I allready ordered a Scat crank 9000 series. It is neatral balanved in front for stock damper and comes with a balanced flexplate in back.

I just saw a good alternative to what I want to do with my heads.
For $950 pair. Lingenfelter will CNC port/polish, deck & cc the heads, new 2.0 & 1.54 stainless valves and appropriate springs. This may be a good compramise over the cost of new heads and cleaning them up myself?

What do you guys think of this cam? http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2011&gid=288

 

I was still talking talking about quench distance. It's the distance from the heads to the top ridge of the piston at TDC.

Good topic to understand.

 

So How much HP am I realy giving up by cleaning runners, blending bowls and bigger/better valves, As opposed to new heads?

Pete/Greg what you think of that voodoo cams specs?
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2011&gid=288

 

I like it.
I have never spit hairs on a cam though. If I am targeting a 219 duration for example, anything between 217 and 221 makes me happy. My experience over the years has taught me that the cubes and heads flow the air, and cam selection is flexible for a given project.
My 2 cents.

 

Do you think this assembley will get 425-450hp at the crank with my heads worked over? Or will I need to go with bigger heads i.e. 190cc ?

 

A lot depends on your porter and what aftermarket heads you're comparing to. TPIS, Lloyd Elliot, and some others can do a good job porting. And, get reasonably close to AFR 180 performance. Even closer/beat non-CNC'd brands.

Still, I think you can hit your goals. Considering it's about 350-375rwhp, that has been done with stock LTx heads. With a good tune, I like the cam choice too!

Go for it!

 

Are ARP studs required for this build i.e. crank/heads or can my stock bolts be reused? I don't even know if they are tourqe to yeild?

 

It was explained to me that 95 and later cars used torque to yield head bolts. I do not know this to be fact, so investigate it.
If they are not torque to yield, you don't "need" new ones.
Crank bolts do not need to be replaced.

 

Mike at Comp Cams reccomended the following custom grind after I told him my engine specs. Doesn't that seem like alot of duration?

1:6 roller rockers
in. exh. @.050 and 113 lobe seperation
236 / 242

LIFT
576 / 584

 

Will my stock fuel pump support 450hp with the upgrade to say 30-32lb. injectors.
Are most guys going with the Bosch III's injectors? I think I read 32lbs will support 450hp at 43psi.

 

Ok guy's here is what Bryan from Comp Cam had me go with, let me know what you think. Also these numbers are with 1:5 rockers which he seamed to think I should stick with. It seems the lift is a little low?

276HR12

intake exhaust @ .050 112 LS
224 236 duration

502 510 lift