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383 engine kit help
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
Ok guy's here is what Bryan from Comp Cam had me go with, let me know what you think. Also these numbers are with 1:5 rockers which he seamed to think I should stick with. It seems the lift is a little low?276HR12
intake exhaust @ .050 112 LS
224 236 duration
502 510 lift
Looks good. Tweak the lift by using the rocker arm ratio that best suits the heads flow.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
Thanks! I will probably go with 1:6,s do to the fact I think Advanced Induction or Gole engines will be doing my heads i.e. bigger vavles and porting. they should be around 185-190cc when finished. The extra lift would give me 532 & 540 aprox.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
pin removal help!
Whats the best way to get the crank and cam pins out without boggering them up to much? The cam pin drives the opti and the crank pin is for the timming gear correct I believe. I pulled with pliers but they seem pressed or frozen and I don't want them marred.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
I want to build a 383 around 450hp max. There are so many kits where do I begin? I was hoping some of you guys who have already done this can chime in. Some say forged some say not needed? I was thinking cast crank, I beam rods and forged pistons? The kits are unlimited. does anybody have a kit part number they used with good results? I don't need the best parts made nore do I want junk somthing in the middle quality wise (remember 450hp max)
This is a 92 LT-1 that will need a .030 oerbore. I would like as complete a kit as possible also plan on reuseing stock flexplate and just remove balance weight.
This is a 92 LT-1 that will need a .030 oerbore. I would like as complete a kit as possible also plan on reuseing stock flexplate and just remove balance weight.
Scat makes a crank for a 6.0 rod that is internally balanced P/N 935037506000L Their I beam rod with 7/16 bolts has alot of cam clearance and we have been partial to the Mahle piston and ring kits can be bought reasonable as well.
You are better off to buy your parts and have a shop you trust balance the rotator as I have been through some pretty bad balance jobs.
We have always used Forged rotator with our builds and try to stick with the Callies line of products and so fa no problems.
We have been offered deals on some cheap forged 275.00 dollar cranks that don't size worth a shyt that aren't straight, journals not round ETC.
So I try to go with a quality parts that don't come back with problems.
On the dyno we have seen more of a gain just using 1.6 rockers on the intake a leaving 1.5 on the exhaust.
Last edited by BLOCKMAN; Jan 2, 2010 at 04:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
Aligning main bearings ?
Can you guys help clearify somthing my engine manual talks about?
They say to install the crank and push it to the rear then to the front of the engine to align the main bearings? I have never heard of this but it makes sense. How much tourqe should be on the cap bolts when doing this ? I wouldn't think much? thanks in advance.
The machine shop had a metal gasket that feel out of the oil filter housing that I missed when tearing the engine down. My Fel-Pro gasket set came with a fiber gasket for this area. do I use both or the new fiber or reuse the old metal gasket/shim?
They say to install the crank and push it to the rear then to the front of the engine to align the main bearings? I have never heard of this but it makes sense. How much tourqe should be on the cap bolts when doing this ? I wouldn't think much? thanks in advance.
The machine shop had a metal gasket that feel out of the oil filter housing that I missed when tearing the engine down. My Fel-Pro gasket set came with a fiber gasket for this area. do I use both or the new fiber or reuse the old metal gasket/shim?
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Can you guys help clearify somthing my engine manual talks about?
They say to install the crank and push it to the rear then to the front of the engine to align the main bearings? I have never heard of this but it makes sense. How much tourqe should be on the cap bolts when doing this ? I wouldn't think much? thanks in advance.
The machine shop had a metal gasket that feel out of the oil filter housing that I missed when tearing the engine down. My Fel-Pro gasket set came with a fiber gasket for this area. do I use both or the new fiber or reuse the old metal gasket/shim?
They say to install the crank and push it to the rear then to the front of the engine to align the main bearings? I have never heard of this but it makes sense. How much tourqe should be on the cap bolts when doing this ? I wouldn't think much? thanks in advance.
The machine shop had a metal gasket that feel out of the oil filter housing that I missed when tearing the engine down. My Fel-Pro gasket set came with a fiber gasket for this area. do I use both or the new fiber or reuse the old metal gasket/shim?
That would be to set the thrust if there was no dowel pin used to align the rear cap.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
Can you state the correct procedure, The manual is somewhat vague on the exact steps,How much tourqe is on the bolts? hand tight? is there any measuring of side clearances after? THANKS!
P.S. My new manual explains it in more detail thanks!
P.S. My new manual explains it in more detail thanks!
Last edited by C4vettrn; Jan 8, 2010 at 08:07 PM. Reason: n/a
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
Degree wheel?
I went out and bought a performance manual for chevy small blocks, I have a factory engine manual but if your not a mechanic it's not that helpful other than showing the steps to take it doesn't give much detail on each step. I took my new oil pump apart a did a buch of dremel work on all areas the oil flows, cleaned up the nicks/burs on the gears and polished them some then I took a little meat of the cover with emery cloth on a flat serfuce to make the tolerances a little tighter.
My next questions are:
1. Is a degree wheel dial-in of the TDC necesary on computer controled cars OBD-I & II. Doesn't the ECU compensate and adjust itself to correct timming?
2. Is it recomended to broach the balancer hub on high performance engines do to slippage? Is reusing a 135k balancer (looks in good cond.)
OK? If not what is the reccomended balancer and do they come broached?
3. What is the best way to plug the hole in the timming cover for guys running dual roller timming chain?
4. Can I run my stock oil pan and factory baffle on a stroker motor?
My next questions are:
1. Is a degree wheel dial-in of the TDC necesary on computer controled cars OBD-I & II. Doesn't the ECU compensate and adjust itself to correct timming?
2. Is it recomended to broach the balancer hub on high performance engines do to slippage? Is reusing a 135k balancer (looks in good cond.)
OK? If not what is the reccomended balancer and do they come broached?
3. What is the best way to plug the hole in the timming cover for guys running dual roller timming chain?
4. Can I run my stock oil pan and factory baffle on a stroker motor?
Last edited by C4vettrn; Jan 7, 2010 at 12:36 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
I went out and bought a performance manual for chevy small blocks, I have a factory engine manual but if your not a mechanic it's not that helpful other than showing the steps to take it doesn't give much detail on each step. I took my new oil pump apart a did a buch of dremel work on all areas the oil flows, cleaned up the nicks/burs on the gears and polished them some then I took a little meat of the cover with emery cloth on a flat serfuce to make the tolerances a little tighter.
My next questions are:
1. Is a degree wheel dial-in of the TDC necesary on computer controled cars OBD-I & II. Doesn't the ECU compensate and adjust itself to correct timming?
2. Is it recomended to broach the balancer hub on high performance engines do to slippage? Is reusing a 135k balancer (looks in good cond.)
OK? If not what is the reccomended balancer and do they come broached?
3. What is the best way to plug the hole in the timming cover for guys running dual roller timming chain?
4. Can I run my stock oil pan and factory baffle on a stroker motor?
My next questions are:
1. Is a degree wheel dial-in of the TDC necesary on computer controled cars OBD-I & II. Doesn't the ECU compensate and adjust itself to correct timming?
2. Is it recomended to broach the balancer hub on high performance engines do to slippage? Is reusing a 135k balancer (looks in good cond.)
OK? If not what is the reccomended balancer and do they come broached?
3. What is the best way to plug the hole in the timming cover for guys running dual roller timming chain?
4. Can I run my stock oil pan and factory baffle on a stroker motor?
4) Stock pan and baffle work, but you have to smack a few dents in it with a ball peen hammer to clearance for the rods.
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I want to build a 383 around 450hp max. There are so many kits where do I begin? I was hoping some of you guys who have already done this can chime in. Some say forged some say not needed? I was thinking cast crank, I beam rods and forged pistons? The kits are unlimited. does anybody have a kit part number they used with good results? I don't need the best parts made nore do I want junk somthing in the middle quality wise (remember 450hp max)
This is a 92 LT-1 that will need a .030 oerbore. I would like as complete a kit as possible also plan on reuseing stock flexplate and just remove balance weight.
This is a 92 LT-1 that will need a .030 oerbore. I would like as complete a kit as possible also plan on reuseing stock flexplate and just remove balance weight.
