4-bolt block needed?
#41
Le Mans Master
I have seen problems using new GM blocks and after a season of running we see some weird clinder wall distortion after a year of running (circle track) and we don't see this on a seasoned stock block.
One of my friends has his apart and will let me know how the cylinders are after a season of punishment.
I really don't think there will be a problem with a Dart blocks
One of my friends has his apart and will let me know how the cylinders are after a season of punishment.
I really don't think there will be a problem with a Dart blocks
Now, last I read, the thing is the big boys are having their new blocks cryogentically (?) treated to accomplish the same thing. A new, green block hasn't take a set and things move around once put under load.
It takes many heating and cooling cycles for that set to occur. Once that happens, the block needs to be RE-MACHINED to bring everything back into spec. The walls, main bores, etc., move around before taking a set. That's one main reason why so many guys search the wrecking yards for blocks out of a school bus or taxi, police car, etc., to get that seasoning they've been through.
Also, when filling a block's water jackets with something like Block-Rock, which is often done when a block's bores are over-bored a LOT, the engine should be built then run under many high load conditions, then torn down and re-machined.
As far as this 2-bolt Vs 4-bolt discussion, you only have to have look-see at what the GM engineers did with the Z06. How many "bolts" do those mains have? Ever wonder why they went that route?
Should tell you something, at least to a reasonable person it should.
Jake
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