C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

L98 idle surge

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #1  
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Default L98 idle surge

Ok guys! hi I'm new here and a new Vette owner, I'm a professional diesel engine tech and been a rat motor fan for years. I'm hoping you can help me figure out this problem.

when i first start engine cold it idles fine and smooth at about 7-800 RPM, but once the engine warms up the idles surges from like 600-1100 but not methodically, more like it tries to die then the computer gives it more fuel.
i have done all the basic stuff, spark plugs, cap and rotor, i even dinked around with the EGR crap as that is the direction the service manual directed me. however nothing i do changes any of the characteristics of the problem.

has anyone experienced this before? can you give me any ideas of where to go from here.

thanks!
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Check for a vacuum leak.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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Share engine info, year, model, mods, etc. Any codes?

Seems like a Closed Loop issue at first glance: IAC, TPS, 02, Coolant Temp Sensor, MAF (?), EGR, Vacuum Leak, etc.

More details needed.

Jake

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKE
Share engine info, year, model, mods, etc. Any codes?

Seems like a Closed Loop issue at first glance: IAC, TPS, 02, Coolant Temp Sensor, MAF (?), EGR, Vacuum Leak, etc.

More details needed.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

I was just reading about this issue today.

Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Dec 29, 2009 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Idle surge can be difficult to solve.

If everything is working properly, it is likely due to a misadjusted tps sensor voltage and/or throttle minimum air adjustment or a result of unmetered air (vacuum leaks).

Accepted range for tps sensor at idle is 0.54 to approx. 0.64 volts.

Note: The tps load axis calculation considers 0.69 volts as zero % tps, so be sure that your setting is at least below 0.69 volts.

Your cold idle 700-800 rpm sounds a bit low, but this is dependent upon the coolant temperature.

Here's a typical 86 auto idle rpm vs coolant temp table:

Idle RPM vs Coolant Temperature

Deg F RPM
(null)
304 625.00
284 625.00
262 625.00
241 625.00
219 625.00
198 625.00
176 625.00
154 625.00
132 625.00
111 750.00
90 900.00
68 950.00
46 1050.00
24 1050.00
3 1050.00
-18 1050.00
-40 1050.00

Add a 50 rpm offset for park or neutral and you should expect a cold idle of around 1,000 rpm, which gradually drops to 675 in park/neutral as it warms up.

If the engine is starved for air, as the rpms fall, the IAC will open (without much effect), the calculated load will increase resulting in mixture enrichment (if still in open loop) and will also affect the spark advance as a function of rpm.

As revs continue to drop, stall saver spark advance will eventually kick in in an attempt to revive a stalling engine.

You have a very dynamic situation where the rpm, IAC position, load, target AFR and spark advance are all changing rapidly. This doesn't promote a stable idle and can easily result in surge or stalling.

For the IAC to have a chance to control the idle by itself it must have a reasonable adjustment range and the spark advance and mixture must be relatively stable.

Follow the min air adjustment procedure (do a search on this topic) to ensure the tps and IAC are in their proper ranges first.

If problems persist, then you can dig deeper as required. Check for vacuum leaks, verify fuel pressure, coolant temp and MAF signals, proper IAC function etc.
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #6  
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Make sure all the initial set-ups are correct as Tequilaboy has shown and then see if you still have the problem. If you do my guess is the O2 sensor is not reading correctly or is unable to correct for a lean fuel mixture due to a mechanical issue. A surge at idle is ussually caused by a lean fuel mixture and since your car does not surge until it warms up and goes into closed loop operation, my thought is that it is lean. If you can get a scanner check to see what your BLM's are at idle when warm, they should be near 128. If they are higher then 128 (example 145) the idle mixture is lean and the car is attempting to add fuel to correct the problem. If the O2 has failed it could still be reading 128 or close and actually be reading incorrectly and may need replacement (This is a last ditch effort once you have verified everything else is correct) .
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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I had exactly the same problem and went down the same route looking at ignition, EGR, TPS ,O2 sensor and so on. The problem turned out to be bad injectors.

Use an OHM meter to check the resistance of each injector both hot and cold. They should be in the 16 ohm range. Bad injectors change the air/fuel mix and can cause the engine to do weird things like surging.

Do you have any Codes?
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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thanks guys for all the tips, I will work on your suggestions and get back to you!

the car specs as follows, 1986 C4 L98 .30 over pistons, magnaflow catbacks. the rest is stock.
thanks again
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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I'd take the entire throttle body apart and have it cleaned along with the IAC housing. Use a scantool to reset the idle rates to about 20 counts and see that the TPS is smooth when you gently step on the pedal. Any dead spots and you need a new TPS.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Our 86 did the same when we bought it. Changed out the fuel filter and O2 sensor at the same time and the problem went away. Your guess which one did it is as good as mine. lol
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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From: Latte Heights Guam
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Originally Posted by tequilaboy
Idle surge can be difficult to solve.

If everything is working properly, it is likely due to a misadjusted tps sensor voltage and/or throttle minimum air adjustment or a result of unmetered air (vacuum leaks).

Accepted range for tps sensor at idle is 0.54 to approx. 0.64 volts.

Note: The tps load axis calculation considers 0.69 volts as zero % tps, so be sure that your setting is at least below 0.69 volts.

Your cold idle 700-800 rpm sounds a bit low, but this is dependent upon the coolant temperature.

Here's a typical 86 auto idle rpm vs coolant temp table:


Idle RPM vs Coolant Temperature

Deg F RPM
(null)
304 625.00
284 625.00
262 625.00
241 625.00
219 625.00
198 625.00
176 625.00
154 625.00
132 625.00
111 750.00
90 900.00
68 950.00
46 1050.00
24 1050.00
3 1050.00
-18 1050.00
-40 1050.00

Add a 50 rpm offset for park or neutral and you should expect a cold idle of around 1,000 rpm, which gradually drops to 675 in park/neutral as it warms up.

If the engine is starved for air, as the rpms fall, the IAC will open (without much effect), the calculated load will increase resulting in mixture enrichment (if still in open loop) and will also affect the spark advance as a function of rpm.

As revs continue to drop, stall saver spark advance will eventually kick in in an attempt to revive a stalling engine.

You have a very dynamic situation where the rpm, IAC position, load, target AFR and spark advance are all changing rapidly. This doesn't promote a stable idle and can easily result in surge or stalling.

For the IAC to have a chance to control the idle by itself it must have a reasonable adjustment range and the spark advance and mixture must be relatively stable.

Follow the min air adjustment procedure (do a search on this topic) to ensure the tps and IAC are in their proper ranges first.

If problems persist, then you can dig deeper as required. Check for vacuum leaks, verify fuel pressure, coolant temp and MAF signals, proper IAC function etc.
Ok guys I did all that Tequila Boy suggested and it is ALOT better, still not perfect, but i'm gonna change tho O2 sensor and fuel filter as MEGTOM 2 suggested. I will update again after that. thanks again for all the help.

Darrell

Last edited by catmech; Jan 1, 2010 at 04:17 PM. Reason: repair
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