the reason im after the Brodix is the Cost. 1000 bucks for a ready to install set of aluminum heads.

They do have the 200cc runner version as well as the 180cc version...

 

Talk to Jim (TPI-421-Vette) before you decide. The price you can get AFRs for -- considering the huge extra flow -- is LESS per cfm IMO. I think you'll be surprised at the price! Seriously, you need to know that price first -- especially with what I'm showing you next:

Cam#__Brodix70cc____AFR 195cc_75cc
60101 10.4SCR/8.8DCR 9.85SCR/8.4DCR
60102 10.4SCR/8.7DCR 9.85SCR/8.25DCR
60103 10.4SCR/8.6DCR 9.85SCR/8.17DCR
60104 10.4SCR/8.35DC 9.85SCR/8.0DCR

As you can see static compression remains a constant with either head. That's normal (and shows why it's not a reliable indicator of cylinder pressure.) Notice also, there's nearly a full point difference between your current cam and the Brdx vs the 60104 w/AFR 75cc option. And, I don't think you can consider a 64/65cc option.

While either static compression (SCR) would sound doable for most of the builders you could ask, the smallest two cams with the Brodix head are danger zones. Even the 60103 is on the edge -- but doable with the right tuner, dyno, scans, etc.... That means you aren't getting into the semi-safe category until you're looking at the 60104 cam.

By contrast, look at the DCR for the AFR75cc heads. Even with the cam you have now, I think you have a reasonable chance of tuning out any ping. Still, you could have issues with a less-than-perfect tune.

When you look at the size of cam most people would install in a 383, you're looking at either the 60102 or 60103. When you look at the lift and potential of the AFR195's married with each of those options, the 60103 is going to make some SERIOUS power. That doesn't mean the 60102 would be a bad choice -- if you're more interested in low-mid-range torque vs all-out HP. Course, if you're really dog-nuts interested in TQ, the cam you have now (tuned by the right tuner), could be an all-day tire-burner.

Bottom line, you're WAY better off looking at the 75cc 195s -- even if it takes you a hair longer to buy your heads. And, ESPECIALLY if that's the RA you want to buy.

 

What kind of DCA would I need to be around to run say a 75hp wet kit?

 

Whoa there, Hoss! You mentioned price a couple of times in this thread. For one thing, you didn't like the idea of a $5k (motor) price tag. For another, you're basis for picking a head was $1000. So, I have to question your even asking about NOS.

Also, I was sitting here considering if I should caution you about the power a 383 AFR setup is able to generate vs rest of your drive train. Seems like I've seen some people break their Dana 36 with the power level a 383/AFR can put out.

Then, to add NOS on top of that? Are you really ready for that level of modification/price/commitment?

 

I was just curious...haha.

The D36 will be coming out and a D44 going in its place with 3.54 gears, using an adapter plate and the D36 batwing.

Im still not sure on the cam. I was told by the chip tuner that the 60101 was as wild a cam as he felt like he could tune the idle into...at first when I just mentioned I had a VooDoo cam...he stopped me in my tracks and said he wouldnt try to mail tune a Lunati cammed car..when I gave him the specs he said it would be fine.

I can shelf the 60101LK I have now and order a 60103 if you all think it is the best choice...

So if im reading this whole thread right...my best bet thus far is:

Scat 383 Kit with 6" Forged I-beams, 30 over FOrged Flat top pistons +5.00, S9000 cteel crank.

Brodix IK200 heads, 70cc chambers

Lunati VooDoo cam, 60103LK

1.6:1 RR's.

Then go from there on intake, injectors, etc?

 

Ask your tuner what he think's he can tune. And, I still think the AFR195 75cc's would kick those Brodix -- plus be less of a headache to tune.

 

60103 with the 200s should be fun.
Id get another tuner, if hes having fits with a 60101 he doesnt know what hes doing, L98s with much bigger cams have been fine tuned by others. Now if youre using the 85 ECM maybe they have some limitations (Ive heard but dont know for sure). Lots of 400+ci motors here with big cams running around on GM computers.
Talk to tpi421Vette on the AFR heads, might be more affordable than you think and will walk all over the Brodix heads, you can get more power with a smaller head so to speak. Youll be starving the TPI, even ported but it will still be a ton of fun. Maybe look for something closer to the 218-224ish range on the intake, just a thought.

 

IDK, Ron. I starve my TPI...Haven't fed it anything for months!


There's a good point to be made about your cam choice -- if paired with a TPI. Big cam + TPI don't make no sense. A TPI will peak at 4k rpms and hit a ceiling around 5k (even if ported well --like you plan). This means your original cam with a TPI was a good plan. It also means having a bigger chamber vs a bigger cam is a smarter move. It's why I said I like the AFR 75cc option better.

60102 + AFR195's 75cc is your best option IMO. Even your original cam with the 1.6rr is better matched to the TPI. Add the money you'd spend on another cam to the Brodix price and you're ALMOST there (AFR territory that is)!

 

okay, did some more looking.

AFR's retail around 1500.00

The 60103 Cam says not Computer compatable.

I can get just a cam pretty cheap because my 60101Lk had a set of lifters with it..Ill just use them. and keep the 60101.



So Im not counting out the AFR's...Im going to get in touch with TPI-421-Vette and see what he can get a set to me for...

Its just hard to count out the Brodix @ just over a grand.

What did we end up saying as far as rotating assembly?

 

You'll get a quote much less than that.

Probably because the LSA is smaller than recommended for a EFI setup.

I'm still holding out for you to use your current cam or the 60102 with the AFRs!

If the AFRs don't work out (though I think they will), have you looked at the 72cc 195 TFS heads? (price/flow)

I'm posting regarding your initial Scat suggestion (using the 5cc flat-tops). AFAIK, that's what you really want to go with. Remember, I mentioned a couple of other (piston) options if necessary.

 

Just curious, it isnt even something Ive even thought about up to this point, but what is all this going to do as far as highway manners and fuel mileage?

Obviously it isnt going to get the 23city and 28hwy I got before...but I mean, is 17city and 24hwy even going to be a consideration? not that it matters..but just curious.


also, sent PM to TPI 421 VETTE

 

Theoretically, with a good tune, you should land near that 17/24 guess. Hard to believe you got 23 city though. Combined maybe, pure city, not buying it.

Alot will depend on how it's tuned and how you "enjoy" it's new-found power!

 

At one point, I had a documented 29/30mpg Hwy average and the City was as high as 24 just taking it easy. The car ran like a swiss watch and was in perfect tune, I mean new plugs, new wires, all new cap and rotor. timed right with 93 octane and all the tires aired up right.

The car would light up the 712's at will and spin em through 1st and bark 2nd and go hard into 3rd. Then just run great in traffic.

I was able to keep temps under 210 in traffic...

Then the intake gasket sucked in...it started smoking and it started hunting and running like crap...

 

City driving to me is not like most city's though. My City is spread out over alot of real estate...so light to light might be 3/4mile or more. Some lights are 1.5 miles apart.

 

Ahhhh! That makes more sense. You probably get to drive 40-45mph too.

To me, city driving is 25 mph with tons of stops and stop lights.