C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

need help with L98 vette!!!

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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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Default need help with L98 vette!!!

my buddies 91 vette is having some problems and can't figure out, hope ya'll can help. he was driving it last night and it just died on him. he replaced the module under the cap and put some wires in the wrong spot. he limped it here to my house and i got the wires put on correctly, and yes i'm sure they are correct, 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. so after i redid the wiring we took it for a spin and as soon as you get into the throttle it dies. we limped it home again and restarted it. it ran fine and even revved up to like 3500 rpm, but at WOT it dies. after playing with it a min. and trying some other things with the car running it died. now that its hot it turns over and WANTS to start but won't. it is getting fire and the fuel rail is reading 40 psi. i was thinking of just redoing the entire ignition system. any and all help would be appreciated because i don't think a set of wires and plugs is gonna do it.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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ck your fuel pressure when hot, when cold and at WOT sounds like it's fuel related. Fuel pumps can stop working once they get hot if bad. Also ck the vac line going to the FPR if it has gas in it it needs a regulator.
Good luck
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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the fuel pressure test was done with the car warm. the schrader valve on the fuel rail is AFTER the FPR. if the FPR was out wouldn't i have a low reading on the fuel line pressure? is there a way to test the FPR?

Last edited by crAzy; Feb 8, 2010 at 04:43 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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I would pull the dist cap and make sure everything underneath was put back right.

Test the coil... although I think they just die. Mine did and left me stranded.

and then back to the wires... triple check em, and I would throw a timming light on it. make sure he didnt move the dist.

How far did he drive with the wires wrong. how wrong were they?
I would probably pull some plugs as well.

Kind of dont really know where to go but it seems by the order of events it would be ingition related.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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i just pulled the cap and rotor off. the tabs the rotor screws into has a lot of play in it. is the rotor not supposed to have ANY play or what. thnx for the help
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 05:39 AM
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check your fuel pressure at wot. The volume of fuel may not be there. I agree it sounds fuel related. Tape a pressure gauge to the windshield the go for a run.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Why did he replace module under cap, did he loose spark ??

Ohm test those Multec injectors, cold, and if it starts again, hot.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Why did he replace module under cap, did he loose spark ??

Ohm test those Multec injectors, cold, and if it starts again, hot.


If you have the stock injectors, it's only a matter of time before they go bad.
The ethanol in the fuel eats them up.
Read the 4th sticky down on tech/performance. I got my injectors from Jon at FICINJECTORS. Good guy, and great price.
Whatever you do, DO NOT replace them with Multecs.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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Is your catalytic converter clogged, may want to check that part out
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo 89


If you have the stock injectors, it's only a matter of time before they go bad.
The ethanol in the fuel eats them up.
Read the 4th sticky down on tech/performance. I got my injectors from Jon at FICINJECTORS. Good guy, and great price.
Whatever you do, DO NOT replace them with Multecs.

Jon at FIC its one of the best things that can ever happen to your car !!!
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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Did it set any codes? If so what are they? If you have spark and fuel pressure my first guess would be something in the injection system.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Sounds like fuel to me also, but if that doesn't resolve the issue, maybe try to look at the oil pressure switch.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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It only starts when cold, but once the car is warmed up and we turn it off we are unable to start the car again.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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OK, when it dies- check for spark, at the end of the plug wire. Try spraying carb cleaner into the throttle to see if it starts alittle. May need a noid light to test injector pulse, use a long screwdriver touching the injector & put the handle to your ear, should hear them clicking when cranking. Ohm the injectors when hot. Could have a senser affected by heat, may need to have it scanned or try unpugging one at a time to see if it fires at all.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by crazy03z06
it only starts when cold, open loop but once the car is warmed up [GOES INTO CLOSED LOOP[/B] and we turn it off we are unable to start the car again.
this is very typical of bad injectors!!!

Last edited by Jimbo 89; Feb 22, 2010 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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Don't spray anything in the intake unless it's gasoline!!!!! and just a little.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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How about don't spray anything in the intake period. It's not a carburated car, and troubleshooting fuel injection doesn't involve those methods. Spraying in volatile fluids only to have it stumble and tumble doesn't tell you anything that can't be determined by proper troubleshooting methods.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Check the coil with a meter, it sounds like it's in the ignition
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Why did he replace module under cap, did he loose spark ??

Ohm test those Multec injectors, cold, and if it starts again, hot.


Exact same thing was happening to my 91, had 2 bad injectors on the driver's side. Not saying it couldn't be ignition, but it is so easy to check the coils on the injectors.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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Test the ECM
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