BobRR3

this just started last week. I tried to start the car, 96 LT1, Turned the key and just a click. Tried again and it started right up. I thought maybe i jsut didn't turn the key long enough enough. then It happened three times befor the car would start. Once the car starts, It runs fine. The battery is new. I looked in the FSM and there are several things i need to check. I'm just looking to see if anyone else has had this problem to point me in the right direction.

Things i plan on checking : the stsrter itself
the theft deterent system
Transmission switch

Would any of these , other than a bad starter even allow the starter motor to click? I wouldn't think so.

RetiredSFC 97

I posted in general as well.

Check the connections on that starter. It could be the solenoid as well. They are notorious for eating starters. Also check for any codes that may be ignition or computer related.

jfb

Two things are most common for starters that only click. First, remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts and the battery posts and reconnect the cables (neg last). Measure the battery voltage at the terminals while someone cranks the engine, it should not fall below 9.0 volts or you have a discharged battery (charge it up with a battery charger), bad battery connections (you already took care of this), or you have a battery at the end of its life. Measure the battery voltage at its terminals under no load. 12.0 volts and below, discharged, charge the battery up. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear in between.
Second, at the end of the stroke of the starter solenoid, two large copper contacts are forced together which switch 12v to the starter motor and these contacts get pitted and blackened from the 100+ amps they switch. You can replace these contacts inside the starter motor yourself if you want to do the work. You can tell the contacts are the problem by continuing to hit, "crank", over and over and eventually the starter motor cranks the engine.

Al Borman

This is a very common problem with the Denso solenoid contacts as mentioned by JFB. Seems this problem is occuring alot more now that our C4's are getting up there in years and mileage. Anyway, I had the exact same problem where I would hear a *click* *click* *start*. These starter motors are excellent except that the copper contacts, as well as the copper contact ring on the solenoid wear down over time. Once they wear down to a certain point, the plunger bottoms out and the copper contact ring on this plunger can no longer make good contact. Instead of spending $150 or so on a rebuild of unknown quality, I ordered a new plunger and copper contacts and rebuilt the solenoid. It is easy to rebuild and the parts only cost me $30. If you have the ability to remove your starter from the car, you can easily rebuild your solenoid. It only took me about an hour to take apart the solenoid, clean it up, and R&R the contacts. One thing I did prior to pulling the starter was to jumper my battery from another car to make sure that it was not a weak battery. With a jump, I still got the *click* *click* then start. This pretty much told me it was the starter solenoid, and sure enough the worns contacts and plunger were the culprits.

I used Nations Auto Electric for my new contacts and plunger. They ship fast and will know exactly what type contacts you need if you call them and tell them year and make of your vette.

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/Nippondenso.html

EDIT: ADDED VIDEO
After I rebuilt the starter solenoid, I wanted to test it out before going through all the effort of re-installing on the car. This is a simple procedure, and only takes a few minutes to perform. The audio is not that good at the beginning but gets better towards the end. Even if you decide to replace a faulty starter with a rebuilt, I would strongly recommend giving the rebuilt starter a quick test prior to install.
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Here are a few pics and descriptions of the process I went through:
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RetiredSFC 97

Al to the rescue

Al Borman

Thanks Michael, and thank you for your service in the US Army. My son is currently in the Air Force, and I am real proud of him.

Anyway, havn't heard back from the OP as to his starting issue, but it sure sounds like he has worn down solenoid copper contacts.

Cheers

BobRR3

Thanks Al. I have already ordered the starter. Mine is a 96 so, I'll have to deal with the exhaust being in the way. in any case, I'm going to replace the O2 sensors while i have the exhaust down.

I've done the starter on a 86 but this will be more difficult.

Al Borman

I don't think your '96 would be any different from my '94 with respect to the starter location and the catalytic converter. Getting at the 14mm bolt near the catalytic is simple enough if you use 1/4" rachet, wobble extensions and 14mm short socket. No need to lower exhaust. Those exhaust bolts may proove to be a nightmare to get loose with the real possability of snapping off the head(s) due to the years of rust and extreme heat cycling.....

pcolt94

I also had your thoughts on my 94. This starter will never come out and clear the exhaust. But it sure did come out to my amazement as I almost could not believe it. I thought it was a bit smaller in profile that some other starters I have replaced. Due to its size it did come out with no problem.

News flash………..When the starter is out is the perfect time to change the fuel filter. With the additional clearance it becomes a walk in the park.

bizaro

tagging for furture reference, nice write up.

RUU

Thanks for this photo, It helped a lot when I replaced the started in my '96 this weekend. On the '96, there are no brake lines to contend with and the "BAT" cable is not totally rigid and can be moved out of the way after removing a 10mm clamping bolt on the flywheel cover. Also, I was able to use a 9/16 12 point (3/8) socket on the recessed starter bolt instead of a 14mm. This gave enough play on the socket to get a standard extension on it as I was not able to get enough leverage to remove it with a standard u-joint. As it was I had to use a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and a breaker bar to loosen both the bolts - I have no idea how you did it with a 1/4 ratchet!

princebrent

Thanks for all your info about this job, it was a big help! I especially want to thank RUU for the 12 point 9/16 socket. That was a brainstorm and saved me a whole lot of grief!

One question, though - when I took the old starter off, it has something like a rubber gasket around the gear end but the new starter didn't. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere so could anyone tell me if this gasket is needed? I did notice that there is a small gap between the starter motor and the assembly so I hope I don't have to pull the thing apart again!

pcolt94

Mine has one also as I just installed another starter about 2 months ago. The starter bolts to the block unlike some of the other older engines where it bolts and mates to the bell housing. It basically just sits next to the bottom metal cover for the convertor.

I believe the rubber is just to keep dirt out of there and seal it up somewhat since there may be a small gap when the starter is installed. I would have liked to put a new one in but starters don’t come with the rubber seal and when you're doing the job I guess you just end up putting the original one back in.

I was going to make a new gasket but if my materials (what I had) was too thick or not soft enough, I could see trying to get it bolted up might become a problem or to much pressure on the convertor cover so I gave the effort up.