C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

85 died and wont start (fuel problem)

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 03:04 AM
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Default 85 died and wont start (fuel problem)

Leaving my apartment, my car ran until I got to the stop sign and then it suddenly died. No sputtering or hesitation, just died like I turned off the key. I tried restarting and it cranks like it should but never fires.
So I checked the codes and only got 12. I then checked the fuel pump fuse and it is good. I also tested fuel pressure at the schrader valve and it is 0 psi. I tried to turn on the fuel pump by connecting 12V to terminal G of the diagnostic port and I could not hear the fuel pump turn on. I also just added gas so that isnt the problem. Is there any more diagnosing I can do before I replace the fuel pump?
Forgot to mention I replaced the fuel filter about 9 months ago.

Thanks in advance

Last edited by dallas3246; Mar 6, 2010 at 04:14 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dallas3246
Leaving my apartment, my car ran until I got to the stop sign and then it suddenly died. No sputtering or hesitation, just died like I turned off the key. I tried restarting and it cranks like it should but never fires.
So I checked the codes and only got 12. I then checked the fuel pump fuse and it is good. I also tested fuel pressure at the schrader valve and it is 0 psi. I tried to turn on the fuel pump by connecting 12V to terminal G of the diagnostic port and I could not hear the fuel pump turn on. I also just added gas so that isnt the problem. Is there any more diagnosing I can do before I replace the fuel pump?

Thanks in advance
fuel pump relay - ???
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dallas3246
Leaving my apartment, my car ran until I got to the stop sign and then it suddenly died. No sputtering or hesitation, just died like I turned off the key. I tried restarting and it cranks like it should but never fires.
So I checked the codes and only got 12. I then checked the fuel pump fuse and it is good. I also tested fuel pressure at the schrader valve and it is 0 psi. I tried to turn on the fuel pump by connecting 12V to terminal G of the diagnostic port and I could not hear the fuel pump turn on. I also just added gas so that isnt the problem. Is there any more diagnosing I can do before I replace the fuel pump?
Forgot to mention I replaced the fuel filter about 9 months ago.

Thanks in advance
Before you start replacing parts randomly based on guesses get her to someone who can diagnose the problem accurately.

I speak from experience. My FP seemed to work as well which led to a host of parts being replaced based on guesses prompted by well meaning posters. TPS, FP pressure regulator, ignition module, checking relays, replacing sensors. When all was said and done it turned out to be the FP was bad and MAF that needed replacing. Not that having the new parts on is bad, maybe just not necessary.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 08:16 AM
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You say you checked the pump fuse, visually, or did you test it with a meter ?
Put the 12v back on "G" and see if 12v is making it to the pump fuse.
If it is, check for 12v at tank. If it is still there, buy a new pump.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bangbgC6
Before you start replacing parts randomly based on guesses get her to someone who can diagnose the problem accurately.

I speak from experience. My FP seemed to work as well which led to a host of parts being replaced based on guesses prompted by well meaning posters. TPS, FP pressure regulator, ignition module, checking relays, replacing sensors. When all was said and done it turned out to be the FP was bad and MAF that needed replacing. Not that having the new parts on is bad, maybe just not necessary.

Good luck.
Nothing personal but no one can diagnose a car from across the country. Any and all suggestions from well meaning posters is still the responsibility of the owner to decide what they will or will not replace. No one should replace anything because someone from across the country said so. The particular item they mention should be tested and then ruled out. But you are correct. If you cannot diagnose it, get to someone who can.


As far as the issue at hand it appears the pump is either bad or it is not getting the correct current or the relay is bad.

If the pump is original I would replace it anyway. If it isn't the cause it will be sooner than later.

The fact is you know you have a fuel issue and most likely the pump or the feed to the pump. Make sure you are getting the correct amount of volts as Agent86 stated.

Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Mar 6, 2010 at 07:49 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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Check for 12V and good ground at the pump. There is plug near the filler neck where you can check, three wire, one is ground, one is 12V for the pump and the other is the fuel level sensor. You could also apply 12V and gound directly to the pump at this plug on the pump side to see that the pump works.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Thanks for all the help. Turns out it is the fuel pump. I put 12 V across it and nothing happens. Unfortunately I have a new problem now. As I was pulling the fuel sending unit I snapped off one of the bolt heads and there were already 2 that are broken. And of course all 3 are right next to each other. Any suggestions as to how to proceed. I really don't want to have to drain the gas tank...
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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First, soak the bolts in rust dissolving chemical for 24 hours.
THEN
you can drill the bolts and use an easy out to remove them. start with 1/8" drill for a pilot hole, and then go to the drill size for the easy out. Be sure to drill slow, and be careful if you smell gas fumes, you could blow yourself up.
Replace all the other ones as well, and use some sort of copper based seal, non hardening pipe dope, like permatex non hardening formula. The gas is cleaning up the bolts, and the steel to steel is rusting the bolts in place.
be sure to proceed slow, or you will certainly have to take the tank out.
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