does this C Beam look normal?


I have one in my storage unit, and I can look at it tomorrow and let you know if it looks like that.

I had a D44 and C-beam shipped to me recently. The box got it's butt kicked! I thought the C-beam was damaged because of the support structure (for the lack of a better word) looked bent. It obviously had the diff banging into it. However, once cleaned up it is so uniform, I feel it may be how it is shaped.




It may be damaged, I just wouldn't rush to judgement.
p.s. had my transmission replaced by a shop. not very happy right now. one of many complications i have had with their work.
Last edited by MP6; Apr 16, 2010 at 02:05 AM.
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As long as nothing is touching and the slignment is good, then no problem. I think the following will work on manual or auto trans: (Measurements taken from www.zfdoc.com) ALIGN DRIVELINE COMPONENTS: Take the following measurements directly above and to the right of the Propeller shaft front yolk universal joint. To ensure proper alignment of the driveline, a clearance of 45 mm +/- 6mm (1.77 in. +/- 0.236 in.) must be maintained between the top of the support to the underbody and a clearance of 28 mm+/-6 mm (1.1 in. +/- 0.236 in.) from the right side (passenger side of vehicle) of the support to the side wall.
There is something else that ZFDoc sells that helps with wheel hop c-beam issues, he calls them beam plates: http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm
Wheelhop can be cause by many issues, including:
1) worn shocks / old hard tires
2) seriously unbalanced wheels
3) aftermarket wheels with a hubcentric bore larger than 70.3mm - an uncentered wheel can trammel noticeably under acceleration.
4) driveline alignment
5) bad wheel bearings
6) bent or damaged suspension components
Sometimes it can be a process to discover the cause.
Thomas
Was this damage done by the transmission shop or was all this stuff damaged prior to you buying the car and you just never noticed it before now?










Pete's right. That's not normal at all, replace it asap!












