84 with Idle Issues
I have an 84 that has 39k miles on it. It basically just sits, and I know that is probably why I am having this problem now. So here goes, when I try to start the car it will only run for a few seconds. If I keep the RPM's way up it will run a little bit longer but not for more than 10-15 seconds and as soon as I left off of the gas it dies. I pulled the plugs and they are covered in oil so I know that I have an additional problem with either the rings or the valve seals. My question is, could the plugs be causing the rough idle. I assume it isn't a fuel issue since it will rev up when I give it gas. I also learned that it could be the Air idle control valve. Where is that located so I can take it out and see if it is gummed up or defective? Thanks for any help.
But mine has had a rough idle for awhile - goes from 600 to 300 to 600 to 300.....
I did the IAC's, TPS, fuel filter, fuel pressure, gaskets, replaced all eight plugs with Bosch quad iridiums, new Magnecor wires, new MSD cap-rotor-coil, etc., etc.... None of those things fixed the rough idle on my '84 yet.
Researching more on this and other forums, most members will tell you there is an air leak in the throttle body / intake or the linkage is loose. Mine has none of these that I could find.
BUT, I have read numerous threads that say the fuel injectors could be the problem.
I just pulled mine and am having Jon at FIC rebuild them. He is quick, thorough and very reliable. Only $75 - that is a good deal in any case - them suckers are 26 years old

I'm willing to bet my idle surge will be gone soon.
Stay tuned and in touch with another low mileage '84 owner.
Got some pics of that cherry?????
Here's mine: http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...TTE/?start=all
And here are some GREAT OEM pics - directly from GM: http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...%20OEM%20pics/
Dave H. dchoran@athenet.net
Last edited by dchoran; Apr 19, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Of course you could verify the Fuel pressure prior to completing all those task I mentioned.
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To VERIFY that your spark is sufficient: You can check for spark jumping to ground while the engine is being cranked, but you've already done that and that doesn't necessarily prove that the spark is sufficient. If you make your "ground", the tip of one of a spark plug that is installed in the head, that will give you your proof; if you see a spark jump there, only wa for the spark to get to ground is to jump inside the cylinder too, under compression. If the spark jumps, you have sufficient spark.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 20, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
The fact that you can get the car to fire with starting fluid also leads back to a fuel delivery issue.
The fuel may build up to get the engine to fire...but once the initial sprays are gone there is not enough delivery as the pressure drops......
Your garden hose has a nice spray handle on it.........you open the spigot but only a little bit. The hose bulges with pressure but once you squeeze the handle and let some water spray out....that first few moments the water shoots very far...but as the hose contracts due to lack of pressure, the water stream gets lower and lower.....you can let go of the squeeze handle and let it build up pressure again to repeat the process....but unless you increase the amount the spigot is opened you only get a repeat of what happened before.
This is what is occuring with your injectors. You get 1-3 pulses and sprays from the ECU and then the pressure drops due to the delivery issue. Then the engine dies.
All just conjecture.......but this is where I would think the issue is
The fuel pressure gauge will verify/eliminate this question.
For a temporary test location, I'd check at the back of the car where the fuel pump lines leave the tank/pump.
-Tom










