Rear hubs from ebay
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
I pulled the old one off, put the new washer on, put the new hub on, put on the outer washer and then the nut. All without removing the half-shaft.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Color my life with the chaos of trouble.
I CAN NOT (AND WILL NOT) CONFIRM THAT THESE SKF HUBS WILL WORK ON ANY CAR EXCEPT FOR MY 1996 COUPE.
I use them on mine with zero issues. Your results may vary.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
WBI is where I bought the tapers for the GP.
And trust me, the price for NOS? Are these really NOS?
I'm not willing to pay the extra $ for a part advertised as NOS for double the price. Go with WBI.
They also supply the production lines in Detroit. Thats close enough to NOS for me.
BTW.....ALL C4 rear wheel bearing are the SAME!
nuff said
.
And trust me, the price for NOS? Are these really NOS?
I'm not willing to pay the extra $ for a part advertised as NOS for double the price. Go with WBI.
They also supply the production lines in Detroit. Thats close enough to NOS for me.
BTW.....ALL C4 rear wheel bearing are the SAME!
nuff said
.
Last edited by JrRifleCoach; May 15, 2010 at 04:12 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
This is of a 96 which does not have the drum and shoes. Not sure which year it changed.
Last edited by MK 82; May 15, 2010 at 04:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I know when I priced out labor, I don't think most of them pull the shaft. As one shop gave me a really high price of $300. And I asked why it was so high compared to other shops. And he said it shows to pull the half shaft. I'd go elsewhere anyways. I'm sure the shop would take a short cut and not pull the shaft, but charge $300 in labor anyways. The cheapest labor I got was $87.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
This is not that bad of a project to do on your own. I did mine, and would never pay some one to to u joints or a bearing replacement it's a couple hours work tops. And it is only 3 bolts to get the hub off.
Last edited by floridamale; May 15, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
I have a headache!
I did mine while I had the halfshafts out to R&R the U Joints. There are many ways to skin a cat. And it is three bolts. I forgot!
Actually I am still waiting for the washers to arrive.
Drive it to my house and I will do it for a 6 pack.
Eddie
P.S. Be glad we are not talking about the lug nuts on my Motorhome. 450 FT/LBS!! I have a 4 Ft cheater pipe.
I did mine while I had the halfshafts out to R&R the U Joints. There are many ways to skin a cat. And it is three bolts. I forgot!
Actually I am still waiting for the washers to arrive.
Drive it to my house and I will do it for a 6 pack.
Eddie
P.S. Be glad we are not talking about the lug nuts on my Motorhome. 450 FT/LBS!! I have a 4 Ft cheater pipe.
Last edited by MK 82; May 15, 2010 at 05:29 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
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From: Vero Beach Florida
I used a 1/2 breaker bar on the 3 torx bolts. I did not have any trouble breaking them loose, make sure you clean out any dirt that is inside so you get a good bite with the T55. If I remember right I use a gentle tap on the socket then hooked the breaker bar to it. The retainer just slips over the axle nut and the cotter pin locks it in place you can remove it with your fingers after the pin is out. They use this set up instead of a castle nut with a pin. I have one of those lug tools but I think the slight angle on it didn't allow me to use it, the breaker was a better angle. Buying tools is never a bad thing you need to have them anyway for the next project.
Last edited by floridamale; May 15, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
If you found someone that will do it for $87 and will stand behind it - have them do it!
As for the nut retainer it just slips on over the nut. Put a new cotter pin in and you are good.
Last edited by jaa1992; May 15, 2010 at 05:32 PM. Reason: added info
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
You're turning this into more of a project than you need to 
Measure your torque wrench against a rental one and see how they match up - use your lug nuts as a gauge. Read through the shop manual or one of Agent86's PDF files too
Measure your torque wrench against a rental one and see how they match up - use your lug nuts as a gauge. Read through the shop manual or one of Agent86's PDF files too
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Autozone does have a 200 ft lb 1/2 drive torque wrench as well as 6 point spindle nut sockets in several sizes.
You need the 36mm socket.
If that bastard is on there rediculosuly tight (which is usually the case on one side) that even a huge breaker bar with pipe extensions won't budge it, I just drive around the corner to the tire shop and have a guy loosen it in half a second with an air gun for a small tip. Then I drive back home and finish the job instead of breaking my back.
Wheel Bearings Inc are us made. Most AC Delco parts are now made offshore.
How many miles on your tapered set? Still tight?
Wheel Bearings Inc. adds "HD" to their standard bearing part number for their taper bearing unit.
But they no longer sell directly to the public off their site like they used to at about $60 a piece for the rears. You have to purchase them from one of their authorized "distributors". Unless you contact them to find out who sells their units it's hard to tell what you're getting because wheel bearings get reboxed all the time.
You need the 36mm socket.
If that bastard is on there rediculosuly tight (which is usually the case on one side) that even a huge breaker bar with pipe extensions won't budge it, I just drive around the corner to the tire shop and have a guy loosen it in half a second with an air gun for a small tip. Then I drive back home and finish the job instead of breaking my back.
WBI is where I bought the tapers for the GP.
And trust me, the price for NOS? Are these really NOS?
I'm not willing to pay the extra $ for a part advertised as NOS for double the price. Go with WBI.
They also supply the production lines in Detroit. Thats close enough to NOS for me.
nuff said
And trust me, the price for NOS? Are these really NOS?
I'm not willing to pay the extra $ for a part advertised as NOS for double the price. Go with WBI.
They also supply the production lines in Detroit. Thats close enough to NOS for me.
nuff said
How many miles on your tapered set? Still tight?
Wheel Bearings Inc. adds "HD" to their standard bearing part number for their taper bearing unit.
But they no longer sell directly to the public off their site like they used to at about $60 a piece for the rears. You have to purchase them from one of their authorized "distributors". Unless you contact them to find out who sells their units it's hard to tell what you're getting because wheel bearings get reboxed all the time.
Last edited by 86PACER; May 17, 2010 at 02:15 AM.
Team Owner
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Aww Geez Josh!!!
Tighten the S**T outta it!!
Use a two foot lever and hang your weight off the end. If your 100 lbs that will apply 200 foot pounds.
And your wheels will not fly off...... if you remember to install the cotter pin.
Tighten the S**T outta it!!
Use a two foot lever and hang your weight off the end. If your 100 lbs that will apply 200 foot pounds.
And your wheels will not fly off...... if you remember to install the cotter pin.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
I couldn't tell you.
You should replace both coated washers behind the hub while you're in there (red arrow in pic). One on each side. They can become a source of noise. Put anti-seize on the splines and tighten the spindle nut with car still on jackstand.
You should replace both coated washers behind the hub while you're in there (red arrow in pic). One on each side. They can become a source of noise. Put anti-seize on the splines and tighten the spindle nut with car still on jackstand.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
I told him that already. I think he likes the attention.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Then why aren't you following that advice? You still pull out a 150 ft/lbs torque wrench, which is alot better than not having one at all and just guessing with your body weight. I never asked how to torque down that nut anyways as I already stated I was gonna use a torque wrench. 
Just because someone told me to go out there and use my body weight and guess that it is tightend to spec, doesn't mean I have to do it that way. I can do it however I want. I'm the one that has to fix it if something gets messed up, so I figure I'd do it the right way and torque it down to spec instead of just guessing. So, I don't see a problem with pulling out a 200 ft/lbs torque wrench instead of just guessing at it.
Just because someone told me to go out there and use my body weight and guess that it is tightend to spec, doesn't mean I have to do it that way. I can do it however I want. I'm the one that has to fix it if something gets messed up, so I figure I'd do it the right way and torque it down to spec instead of just guessing. So, I don't see a problem with pulling out a 200 ft/lbs torque wrench instead of just guessing at it.