C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear hubs from ebay

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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:17 PM
  #41  
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When the cheapest part out there is bought expect a failure or disappointment, usually get what you pay for.

How much is ones time and labor worth and how many times do you want to do it over? See this over and over and over, a 39.95 part is not going to be the same as a 129.99 part. Manufacturers arent stupid and know if they are selling good stuff or not.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 12:20 AM
  #42  
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I thought one of my rear hubs was bad because it had a good amount of play with wheel off the ground. I found that the spindle nut was left only hand tight by the guy who I hired to replace all 4 half shaft u joints some time before.

I tightened it with a breaker bar and the play was gone.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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Rear hub = no ball joint
Even if the rear tie rod ends are "bad" it won't move as much as when the hub is bad.

Now to further your paranoia - My original hub went bad on passenger side. had just a little deflection when tested. You know the "did that really move - let me check it again" type. When I replaced it the hub neatly came off in TWO pieces!!!!!!!
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Old May 18, 2010 | 11:36 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
Rear hub = no ball joint
Even if the rear tie rod ends are "bad" it won't move as much as when the hub is bad.

Now to further your paranoia - My original hub went bad on passenger side. had just a little deflection when tested. You know the "did that really move - let me check it again" type. When I replaced it the hub neatly came off in TWO pieces!!!!!!!
Yup. I developed a shimmy on the way back home one weekend. Anything over 70 shook the car. Pulled the driver's side Original Hub and it came off in two pieces. So ya gotta pull them to be sure.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #45  
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Well, good!

Now we can go back to the rest of the forum


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Old May 18, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Well, good!

Now we can go back to the rest of the forum


Dang, I didn't know someone was holding your hand keeping you here.

Got it ordered through Summit: www.summitracing.com/parts/WBI-513020/
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Old May 18, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Dang, I didn't know someone was holding your hand keeping you here.
Oh Ouch! Burn!

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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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How are you guys getting those 3 hub bolts off? With extensions, my wrench just wants to lean then slide off when I'm trying to break the bolt loose. I guess I'll have to get an impact wrench.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Take the halfshaft off first.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
How are you guys getting those 3 hub bolts off? With extensions, my wrench just wants to lean then slide off when I'm trying to break the bolt loose. I guess I'll have to get an impact wrench.
i wouldnt use an impact gun. I was told you can damage the hub/bearings and it even said not to in my box. i had a lot of trouble with those too. i read on here some where to use a strap to hold the wrench into the bolt to really get a good hold of it. It worked for me. i wrapped a dog leash around the end of my wrench and had my friend pull as hard as possible while putting his foot on the empty housing to prevent bending anything. i was able to get them loose then. OHHH and i sprayed them daily with PB Blaster for about 3 days or so. Also use something with a real long handle to get good leverage.

Hope that helps!

Good Luck!
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Take the halfshaft off first.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Take the halfshaft off first.
Ok, I'll try it again when I pull the half shaft out. Though, I don't think that will change what is happening. As the problem is when you use extensions. The ratchet wants to lean as you turn it.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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I bought a snap-on offset 17mm box wrench. works like a charm. I also bought a rear hub on ebay, but haven't put it on yet. don't remember the number exactly, but it was something like 5163
Note:
If you put an 18" pipe on a torque wrench, and have the 6 inches slid up over the handle, at 100 ft. lbs. it is really 200 ft. lbs. ...........not something you couldn't handle. (get it"? "handle") hahahaha

Last edited by coupeguy2001; May 25, 2010 at 10:40 PM.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by MP6
i wouldnt use an impact gun. I was told you can damage the hub/bearings and it even said not to in my box. i had a lot of trouble with those too. i read on here some where to use a strap to hold the wrench into the bolt to really get a good hold of it. It worked for me. i wrapped a dog leash around the end of my wrench and had my friend pull as hard as possible while putting his foot on the empty housing to prevent bending anything. i was able to get them loose then. OHHH and i sprayed them daily with PB Blaster for about 3 days or so. Also use something with a real long handle to get good leverage.

Hope that helps!

Good Luck!
Were they talking specifically not to use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, or tighten them? I could understand not using one to tighten the bolts. But I don't see why you couldn't use an impact wrench to loosen the bolts or break them loose. I'd say that is how a shop would do it.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Ok, I'll try it again when I pull the half shaft out. Though, I don't think that will change what is happening. As the problem is when you use extensions. The ratchet wants to lean as you turn it.
Don't know what to tell you. I did mine last week and didn't have a problem. Don't recall if I used an impact taking them off but can't see a problem with it.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Were they talking specifically not to use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, or tighten them? I could understand not using one to tighten the bolts. But I don't see why you couldn't use an impact wrench to loosen the bolts or break them loose. I'd say that is how a shop would do it.
Youre right that should be ok since youre not using them again.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Ok, I'll try it again when I pull the half shaft out. Though, I don't think that will change what is happening. As the problem is when you use extensions. The ratchet wants to lean as you turn it.
Thats why I had to use the strap around the wrench. It kept the wrench seated in the torx bolt much better.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MP6
Thats why I had to use the strap around the wrench. It kept the wrench seated in the torx bolt much better.
Yeah, but I don't have someone to hold a strap. And I think it would be hard to do it that way on the upper bolts. As I was trying to get the lower bolt off, which is the easiest one.

So, you think an impact wrench would be fine to break the bolts loose? I'm thinking of trying to find one cheap as I'd be afraid of rounding the bolt off with the wrench leaning when I try to turn it.

I'm sure if I got an impact wrench, it probably wouldn't be too powerful. Probably around 200 ft/lbs or less. That way I could also use it on the front caliper bolts to break them loose. As those are around 160 ft/lbs. And I was betting those would be a pain to break loose.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Note:
If you put an 18" pipe on a torque wrench, and have the 6 inches slid up over the handle, at 100 ft. lbs. it is really 200 ft. lbs. ...........not something you couldn't handle. (get it"? "handle") hahahaha
The torque wrench will still "click" at the set torque. You just won't have to apply as much force.
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