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Rear hubs from ebay

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Old May 14, 2010 | 12:47 AM
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Default Rear hubs from ebay

Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price.

I noticed a slight wabble on the rear driver hub, but the rest were tight. Though, the PO had the ujoints replaced on the rear driver half shaft. And when I had the wheel off, I noticed the nut retainer was loose. So, I'm gonna have a shop tighten up that spindle nut to spec and see what that does. As maybe whoever replaced the ujoints didn't tighten that nut up to spec causing the wabble I'm noticing.

When driving I do notice a click when stopping and taking off. And a knock every once in a while. Sounds like it is coming from the driver rear. And a whirrrrrring sound or maybe a humming sound I guess when I get over 15 mph.

The halfshaft ujoints check out fine. So, I'll see what torquing that spindle nut to spec does. If there is still some wabble, then I may get a new hub from ebay.

And I figure instead of paying a shop to install it. I could use that money to buy a $20 36mm socket and a 200 ft/lb torque wrench from the auto parts store. As I believe that spindle nut gets 200 ft/lbs.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569250735-post15.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1553725054-post6.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1551364905-post14.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1551364905

Last edited by vetteoz; May 14, 2010 at 03:01 AM.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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I bought a pair on ebay and after about 2k miles and 6 months of easy street driving they were worse than the old 120k bearings.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Buy the NOS bearings from corvetterecycling.

Reminds me I need to pick up some spares before mine go again.
My car sees lots of road course time - its a lot harder on bearings than street use.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
Buy the NOS bearings


NOS for the rear. SKF for the front.

Cheap bearings are... well... cheap.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Here is the Timken rear bearing #513020.May have to shop around for the lowest price. Tim
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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I bought a set or rear hubs from JR Rifle Coach that he had made with roller bearings. Just got around to putting them on a few days ago. The ones I took off seem fine. So did the ujoints I replaced but I did it while I had the driveshaft out.

Eddie
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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What are the SKF numbers for the front?
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
I bought a set or rear hubs from JR Rifle Coach that he had made with roller bearings. Just got around to putting them on a few days ago. The ones I took off seem fine. So did the ujoints I replaced but I did it while I had the driveshaft out.

Eddie
If you auto cross or track your car check those bearings after every run. My driver side did not last very long on the road course.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
If you auto cross or track your car check those bearings after every run. My driver side did not last very long on the road course.
How much are those rear bearings? Are those the ones that you have to take apart and grease? I think I'd just want the factory sealed bearings. As I just drive around town.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
What are the SKF numbers for the front?
#br930065 Front #br930024 rear And Timken are made in Canton OH.

Last edited by timmy 93; May 14, 2010 at 02:09 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old May 14, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
What are the SKF numbers for the front?
SKF-BR930186 are the F-body fronts that work on later model C4s. I have them on my 96 right now. They have survived serious abuse with 315 series R compound tires at VIR and are still good as new. You can find them under $200 ea.

I made the mistake of putting a Timken hub on a Camaro once... will NEVER buy anything from them ever again.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
How much are those rear bearings? Are those the ones that you have to take apart and grease? I think I'd just want the factory sealed bearings. As I just drive around town.
No one makes a rebuildable rear bearing
Just go with the NOS ones, the originals lasted a long time!
Driving on the street, if you get the rear axle nut torqued properly they will last a long time as well.

I'm hoping I can get more than 10 track days out of the NOS ones, thats all I got out of the "tapered" rear wheel bearings.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:00 PM
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Can you replace that inner teflon coated washer without having to pull the half shaft?

Last edited by samsonb; Nov 24, 2010 at 08:07 PM.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Can you replace that inner teflon coated washer without having to pull the half shaft?.
Nope! Spindle has to come out. Do it yourself. I have mine on order now and will install them in the next week. I already have the spindles out.

Eddie
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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Nope! Spindle has to come out. Do it yourself. I have mine on order now and will install them in the next week. I already have the spindles out.

Eddie
I would try it if I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. Plus I'd have to get a $20 socket as well. I figure at $87, I'd let them do it as the price is around the same. When the guy torqued the nuts, he put it at 190 ft/lbs. I'm betting that would be a pain with no power tools. Plus, I read it says to torque that spindle nut before you put it on the ground. I don't think you could do that with no power tools.

Did you get a new hub? What brand?
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Old May 14, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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DO NOT get cheap bearings...You'll be sorry! I ordered what I thought was a good product from corvettewheelbearings.com last year...Lasted less than a year and 12K miles...Crap!

Timken is the way to go, either that or AC Delco.

And installation really isn't hard, if you have a couple of hours and some tools try to tackle the job yourself.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Nope! Spindle has to come out. Do it yourself. I have mine on order now and will install them in the next week. I already have the spindles out.

Eddie

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Old May 14, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
I would try it if I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. Plus I'd have to get a $20 socket as well. I figure at $87, I'd let them do it as the price is around the same. When the guy torqued the nuts, he put it at 190 ft/lbs. I'm betting that would be a pain with no power tools. Plus, I read it says to torque that spindle nut before you put it on the ground. I don't think you could do that with no power tools.

Did you get a new hub? What brand?
My biggest torque wrench only goes to 150. I tighten them as much as I can with my 1/2 inch impact wrench then tighten the crap out of it with a 2 ft cheater pipe. Has always worked for me. I am installing the hubs as mentioned before. About half your weight on it is close to 200 FT/LBS. Doubt you could break it.

Eddie
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Old May 14, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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The torque setting for my 96 is 164 Ft/Lbs. I tighten it as much as possible with my 1/2 impact wrench and then with my 150 Ft/Lb torque wrench. I finish up with a smidge more using a 2 ft cheater pipe.

I use the brakes to hold the spindle after the impact. Works for me.

I am installing the hubs I got from JR Rifle Coach. If they don't last, I will put the old ones back on which are still good. I don't race the car.


Eddie
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