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Has anyone bought any of the rear hubs from ebay? They've got some for a good price.
I noticed a slight wabble on the rear driver hub, but the rest were tight. Though, the PO had the ujoints replaced on the rear driver half shaft. And when I had the wheel off, I noticed the nut retainer was loose. So, I'm gonna have a shop tighten up that spindle nut to spec and see what that does. As maybe whoever replaced the ujoints didn't tighten that nut up to spec causing the wabble I'm noticing.
When driving I do notice a click when stopping and taking off. And a knock every once in a while. Sounds like it is coming from the driver rear. And a whirrrrrring sound or maybe a humming sound I guess when I get over 15 mph.
The halfshaft ujoints check out fine. So, I'll see what torquing that spindle nut to spec does. If there is still some wabble, then I may get a new hub from ebay.
And I figure instead of paying a shop to install it. I could use that money to buy a $20 36mm socket and a 200 ft/lb torque wrench from the auto parts store. As I believe that spindle nut gets 200 ft/lbs.
I bought a set or rear hubs from JR Rifle Coach that he had made with roller bearings. Just got around to putting them on a few days ago. The ones I took off seem fine. So did the ujoints I replaced but I did it while I had the driveshaft out.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by MK 82
I bought a set or rear hubs from JR Rifle Coach that he had made with roller bearings. Just got around to putting them on a few days ago. The ones I took off seem fine. So did the ujoints I replaced but I did it while I had the driveshaft out.
Eddie
If you auto cross or track your car check those bearings after every run. My driver side did not last very long on the road course.
If you auto cross or track your car check those bearings after every run. My driver side did not last very long on the road course.
How much are those rear bearings? Are those the ones that you have to take apart and grease? I think I'd just want the factory sealed bearings. As I just drive around town.
SKF-BR930186 are the F-body fronts that work on later model C4s. I have them on my 96 right now. They have survived serious abuse with 315 series R compound tires at VIR and are still good as new. You can find them under $200 ea.
I made the mistake of putting a Timken hub on a Camaro once... will NEVER buy anything from them ever again.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by joshwilson3
How much are those rear bearings? Are those the ones that you have to take apart and grease? I think I'd just want the factory sealed bearings. As I just drive around town.
No one makes a rebuildable rear bearing
Just go with the NOS ones, the originals lasted a long time!
Driving on the street, if you get the rear axle nut torqued properly they will last a long time as well.
I'm hoping I can get more than 10 track days out of the NOS ones, thats all I got out of the "tapered" rear wheel bearings.
Nope! Spindle has to come out. Do it yourself. I have mine on order now and will install them in the next week. I already have the spindles out.
Eddie
I would try it if I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. Plus I'd have to get a $20 socket as well. I figure at $87, I'd let them do it as the price is around the same. When the guy torqued the nuts, he put it at 190 ft/lbs. I'm betting that would be a pain with no power tools. Plus, I read it says to torque that spindle nut before you put it on the ground. I don't think you could do that with no power tools.
DO NOT get cheap bearings...You'll be sorry! I ordered what I thought was a good product from corvettewheelbearings.com last year...Lasted less than a year and 12K miles...Crap!
Timken is the way to go, either that or AC Delco.
And installation really isn't hard, if you have a couple of hours and some tools try to tackle the job yourself.
I would try it if I didn't have to buy a new torque wrench. Plus I'd have to get a $20 socket as well. I figure at $87, I'd let them do it as the price is around the same. When the guy torqued the nuts, he put it at 190 ft/lbs. I'm betting that would be a pain with no power tools. Plus, I read it says to torque that spindle nut before you put it on the ground. I don't think you could do that with no power tools.
Did you get a new hub? What brand?
My biggest torque wrench only goes to 150. I tighten them as much as I can with my 1/2 inch impact wrench then tighten the crap out of it with a 2 ft cheater pipe. Has always worked for me. I am installing the hubs as mentioned before. About half your weight on it is close to 200 FT/LBS. Doubt you could break it.
The torque setting for my 96 is 164 Ft/Lbs. I tighten it as much as possible with my 1/2 impact wrench and then with my 150 Ft/Lb torque wrench. I finish up with a smidge more using a 2 ft cheater pipe.
I use the brakes to hold the spindle after the impact. Works for me.
I am installing the hubs I got from JR Rifle Coach. If they don't last, I will put the old ones back on which are still good. I don't race the car.