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I am going to change heads cam intake and headers. Is it easier to pull the engine or do it in chassis. the damper removal has me a bit concerned to be honest.
Dave
I would pull the engine. I don't like setting a cam and all that goes with it with the engine in the car. But that's just me.
It makes it a lot easier to work on. I just pulled my motor last week,took about 2 1/2 hours with help and about the same to put it in and hook it up.You should also replace the rear main seal while you have it out , don't forget to replace the front trans seal also if its an automatic.. ..WW
the damper removal has me a bit concerned to be honest.
Dave
There is room thanks to a nice little loop in the PS line.
This image is replacing the cam in the car on an engine with a 3 piece timing cover. The front face can be removed to access the cam without dropping the oil pan or upsetting that seal. If you have any thoughts that you might do a cam swap in the future, get this timing cover.
That said, I agree with the above, take the motor out this time.
There is room thanks to a nice little loop in the PS line.
This image is replacing the cam in the car on an engine with a 3 piece timing cover. The front face can be removed to access the cam without dropping the oil pan or upsetting that seal. If you have any thoughts that you might do a cam swap in the future, get this timing cover.
That said, I agree with the above, take the motor out this time.
I did mine in the car but if I had the room to work with, shop and lift would have pulled it. Believe it or not the hardest part was replacing the pan gasket because the pan will not come out completely.
I have not done this but here is something that might help if you decide to keep the motor in the car. http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/hot_cam.htm and this too; http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj256/WEVSVET/. I hope to do the same thing this winter w/o pulling the motor, we will see . Keep us posted, i for one would be very interested in what you decide and how it all goes.
You can swap the cam in the engine bay as long you remove the fans and the radiator.
BUT, intake, heads and headers....If you pull the engine you'll have all space you need and will be able to clean up the whole engine and maybe give it a fresh coat of paint.
Other things you could do while the engine is out are fuel filter, clean up the radiator, clean up the crossmember, clutch/PP, dress up the engine mounts with new heat wrap and many others.
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
I did mine in the car but if I had the room to work with, shop and lift would have pulled it. Believe it or not the hardest part was replacing the pan gasket because the pan will not come out completely.
I agree pulling the motor and redoing rear main seal would be nice/preferrable. But, if you do it in the car, you can still do the oil pan gasket.
The oil pan will come ALL the way off if you remove the cross bracing . Motor also has to be rotated so the crankshaft counterweights are out of the way. FSM describes this procedure.
I agree pulling the motor and redoing rear main seal would be nice/preferrable. But, if you do it in the car, you can still do the oil pan gasket.
The oil pan will come ALL the way off if you remove the cross bracing . Motor also has to be rotated so the crankshaft counterweights are out of the way. FSM describes this procedure.
I agree pulling the motor and redoing rear main seal would be nice/preferrable. But, if you do it in the car, you can still do the oil pan gasket.
The oil pan will come ALL the way off if you remove the cross bracing . Motor also has to be rotated so the crankshaft counterweights are out of the way. FSM describes this procedure.
The pan will drop. I did it.
I can have my pan off in 30 minutes. No bracing to be removed on an 87 coupe.
I did my cam install with it in the car. Also degeed the cam. I don't have a hoist or engine stand so that would have been an extra expense for me. I didn't have any issues with the oil pan or gasket at all.
I'll be doing a head swap in a couple of weeks and that will be with the motor in the car also.
If you get it up on the stands pretty high it's much easier on your back.
If you're gonna work with the engine in the car, take the front wheels off! I shoulda done that when I did the heads on the 'Blue One' (87 L98) and it would've been a helluva lot easier on the back, then straddling the front tires for weeks!
If you pull the engine have the short block refreshed. I would do the work with the engine in the car if I were you. As mentioned above, remove the wheels, also the rotors. There is a lot more room then. Also you don't need to drop the pan. I cut the lip off the timing chain cover to reinstall it and it worked fine.