C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Pull engine or not

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Old May 19, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
O.K....Here's something serious. Who can pull out a motor and have the floor look THAT clean! (Maybe it's not THAT serious. )

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Old May 19, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #22  
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I removed the pan to get dipstick tube out - jacked motor up and placed small pieces of 2x4 between frame and motor mount. No problems. Oh yeah - remove distributor cap first.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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How many miles on the engine? I did mine in the car. I was in a small 1 car garage and the car died facing in. I didn't have enough room to pull the motor so I decided to do it in the car and only rebuild the top end. (Against the recommendation of some and with the casual approval of others). It was fine for a couple years of just gentle driving and occasional spirited accelerations. But this year I installed 3.54 gears and 3000 stall converter and went to the race track. Spun a rod bearing.
So, if you think the bottom end could need a refresh, I guess the best thing to do is pull the motor and do it all.
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Old May 19, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
O.K....Here's something serious. Who can pull out a motor and have the floor look THAT clean! (Maybe it's not THAT serious. )

I call that's the engine going back in
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I think there are good points for doing it either way. It will be a winter project as I am having fun driving it.

I do have all the parts to do the rear suspension and sway bars and waiting for a weekend with rain predicted for Saturday and Sunday and will do it then..
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Old May 20, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Steve85
I call that's the engine going back in
Hmm BS ah? I call your post BS.

There have been few members at my house. That picture is the LT4 going back in but if you search since the day I bought my LT4 it's crystal clear my engine and ZF tranny were removed and install in my garage.

In this picture the engine is coming out and you may say BS because the engine is clean, well life goes on brother...my stuff is always clean



Again, you can remove the cam if you remove the radiator





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Old May 20, 2010 | 05:46 PM
  #27  
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Pull that sucker. No sweat for a record setter like you. Easier on your back and gives you a good chance to detail the engine bay.

Waiting on the heads to go back.

LT4 Added Comp Ultra Pro Mags/CC 503/Crane 99893 Springs/Ported Heads






Last edited by MK 82; May 20, 2010 at 05:55 PM.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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I've done head cam swaps on a couple of diffeent C4s using a couple of different methods...

Now my prefered method is pulling the engine.....



mIke
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PLRX
Hmm BS ah? I call your post BS.

There have been few members at my house. That picture is the LT4 going back in but if you search since the day I bought my LT4 it's crystal clear my engine and ZF tranny were removed and install in my garage.

In this picture the engine is coming out and you may say BS because the engine is clean, well life goes on brother...my stuff is always clean
Seriously???? You gotta be kidding me...

Was the rofl emoticon not clear enough that I was joking?

Lighten up...

The sensitivity around here lately flat out sucks....
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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Steve85
Seriously???? You gotta be kidding me...

Was the rofl emoticon not clear enough that I was joking?

Lighten up...

The sensitivity around here lately flat out sucks....
I take my work 300% serious

specially with the rear coilover frustration uuffff
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Old May 22, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
I've done head cam swaps on a couple of diffeent C4s using a couple of different methods...

Now my prefered method is pulling the engine.....



mIke
Does that happy hooker attach to the fuel rail bolts? Looks awfully small.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MK 82
Does that happy hooker attach to the fuel rail bolts? Looks awfully small.
Yes the Happy Hooker attaches to fuel rail bolts.....as for small I have no worries....

Folks have been lifting Iron Headed big blocks with lifting plates the attach to the carb mounts for years with NO ISSUES so an Aluminum headed small block is even less of a worry....

Mike

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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:49 AM
  #33  
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No problem with the Happy Hooker fuel rail bolts - of course you should use high quality fasteners rather than something found at your local variety store. I am one of those guys who have been using a carb plate hook when pulling or installing big blocks. The sheer strength of four quality bolts is many multiples of the weight of any car engine. the only mistake you can make is to not have the plate snugged down to the top of the manifold - you don't just loosley thread the fuel rail bolts in, they need just a little torque to keep the Happy Hooker from shifting around.

Thomas
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Old May 23, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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I considered one but I pull the engine and trans together and need the tilt function of my chain setup.

Believe it or not I can pull the ZF and LT4 without removing the hood.

Eddie
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Old May 23, 2010 | 06:09 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by MK 82
I considered one but I pull the engine and trans together and need the tilt function of my chain setup.

Believe it or not I can pull the ZF and LT4 without removing the hood.

Eddie
I would like to see that. I bet it barely squeaks by.
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