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Toe In question

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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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Default Toe In question

I installed a new PS rack on my car and had measured the lengths of sections and counted revolutions as I changed over the tie rod ends etc. When I had the rack installed I could see that the tires were off, with a toe out? and the steering wheel was off center.
To get it closer, I centered the steering wheel and holding a long straight edge from front tire to the back tire I could see that the DS was pretty much straight. The passenger side was turned outward, so I adjusted the tie rod end to also get it pointed straight ahead -it worked great and the steering wheel was centered and the car tracked staight.
All good at this point and I brought the car in for an alignment -they did it and it feels just as good as when I did it. Again, everything is good.
However, I was turning right into a parking space today and it felt as though I was not able to turn tight enough. I went home and measured and the wheels turn about 1" farther to the left than to the right.
What did I miss?? and how do I correct it?
Thanks, Glen
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Old May 20, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Sounds like the rack was assembled incorrectly. When its centered the steering wheel isn't straight?
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Old May 20, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
Sounds like the rack was assembled incorrectly. When its centered the steering wheel isn't straight?
The steering wheel is centered and the car tracks perfect. The problem is that it turns tighter to the left than to the right. I have the Z51 car and correct rebuilt rack and the wheel goes off center about one full revolution to the left, but only goes a little over 3/4 off center to the right.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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When the rack is in the center of its travel, the steering wheel and the front tires should be straight ahead. If not the pinion gear was installed incorrectly. It looks like you're going to have to do the job over
Just had a thought, do the tie rods look to be out about the same amount? If there's a big difference side to side, that could cause the same problem.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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The pinion was one tooth off on the rack when assembled. This would necessitate compensating by adjusting the tie rods one longer and one shorter. Unfortunately, the rack will be able to move more in one direction than the other. Gotta get another one. Sorry.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
The pinion was one tooth off on the rack when assembled. This would necessitate compensating by adjusting the tie rods one longer and one shorter. Unfortunately, the rack will be able to move more in one direction than the other. Gotta get another one. Sorry.
Can the slip joint be installed in many different ways?Or can it be only installed one way?I know some cars there is a flat spot or hole on the input shaft on the rack & on some cars it can be installed 20 different waysIf your car is airbag equipped possible clock spring damage can occur as its ment to be able to do only so many revolutions-this is an extreme case & if only off a couple of teeth,won't cause this problem.Clockspring damage can cause airbag deployment
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
The pinion was one tooth off on the rack when assembled. This would necessitate compensating by adjusting the tie rods one longer and one shorter. Unfortunately, the rack will be able to move more in one direction than the other. Gotta get another one. Sorry.
Changing it out is no big deal after doing it the first time, but I want to make sure that I didn't make the problem.
Again, I have the Z51 option and the attachment of the steering wheel column to the input shaft of the rack only lines up one way... as far as I can tell.

Right now;
The wheel is centered.
The tires are straight ahead.
It drives and feels perfect.
Each outer tie rod end has about 1/2" of exposed thread.
If I rotate the steering to the left, I get exactly one revolution.
If I rotate the wheel to the right, I get about 2/3 of a revolution.

Does this mean that when the rack was rebuilt, the internals were not assembled correctly?
If so, is it possible to correct it or do I bring it back to NAPA for a replacement?
Thanks, Glen
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Something is not right in the rack. Maybe there is a burr or damage to the rack that is not allowing the pinion to track all the way to the end. Whatever the reason, it sounds internal and there is not much you can do except exhange the thing.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Something is not right in the rack. Maybe there is a burr or damage to the rack that is not allowing the pinion to track all the way to the end. Whatever the reason, it sounds internal and there is not much you can do except exhange the thing.
Two more questions;
1) I can't find the specification for 84 Z/51, but I believe that the steering wheel lock to lock, should be 2 rotations? That would definitely prove your point that something is binding internally if I can only get about 1 2/3 rotations
2) Is there anything external to the rack that limits the steering linkage travel?
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Old May 21, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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I think the stops are built into the rack. Tires shouldn't hit the frame and the steering wheel doesn't have a stop.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
I think the stops are built into the rack. Tires shouldn't hit the frame and the steering wheel doesn't have a stop.
Dumb question, but.... there is no way to adjust the rack stops?
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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The caster will directly affect the ability of the car to drive straight. If the toe is out of whack, the car will handle very weird and will wear tires. You can get it close using old school measurement process.

But I would definitely go to a shop (that knows their stuff) and get a 4 wheel laser alignment. As much as any of us knows about cars and our abilities there is no substitute for doing the job right and having the correct equipment, which none of us probably has.

That and tires is about the only time anyone else works on my car. Some job are just not feasible to do it yourself and get it right. Some things I will pay the well spent money for. It is a small expense to what I save maintaining the car myself.

If after the alignment there is still a problem, it may be easier to find. Or the alignment person may actual identify the problem or repair it if simple.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
But I would definitely go to a shop (that knows their stuff) and get a 4 wheel laser alignment.

.
I recently installed a rebuilt NAPA rack and then took it to be aligned. The alignment is now perfect, it just won't turn as tight to the right (only about 2/3 steering wheel rotation from center) as it will to the left (exactly one full wheel rotation from center).
I'm trying to detemine if the rebuilt rack is bad, which means that I'll have to pull it out and get NAPA to replace it.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
The caster will directly affect the ability of the car to drive straight. If the toe is out of whack, the car will handle very weird and will wear tires. You can get it close using old school measurement process.

But I would definitely go to a shop (that knows their stuff) and get a 4 wheel laser alignment. As much as any of us knows about cars and our abilities there is no substitute for doing the job right and having the correct equipment, which none of us probably has.

That and tires is about the only time anyone else works on my car. Some job are just not feasible to do it yourself and get it right. Some things I will pay the well spent money for. It is a small expense to what I save maintaining the car myself.

If after the alignment there is still a problem, it may be easier to find. Or the alignment person may actual identify the problem or repair it if simple.
I think you need to read the previous posts and the op's problem with the steering rack he just installed.
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