C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Vats???

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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:40 AM
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Default Vats???

Can the Vats be totally removed from the car?
I drove my 89 yesterday with no issues and today it was back to running on four cylinders like it was before I replaced the ignition switch and key as stated in an earlier post (Engine one side hot one side cold). I thought after that replacement it was good to go but now it’s back on four?
Is this a Vats issue or should I be looking at something else? Thanks!
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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To answer the question yes VATS can be totally removed from the car.

If the VATS system is "stock" & connected properly and the car starts & runs it is not the VATS system that has the issue.

Check/ inspect the harness. With the key "on" - you should have 12volts on 1 of the 2 electrical connectors for each of the injector harness plugs - no matter what. If you don't have voltage you have an issue with the harness, fuses/fuse block or wiring leading to the fuse panel (key switch). If the 12 volts is present at each injector connector- focus on the negative/ground side of harness, the ECM (injector drivers are not really serviceable) or ECM's grounds.
Unplug the ECM connectors and/or fuse block then ohm the injector harness back to each side of the injector connections if you need to.

Here is a digram to help visualize the circuit - it is pretty straight forward:


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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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If you proof every relay, switch, your key switch, etc, and your VATS computer is fine, this system will work. In my 87' I paid for a computer chip set that eliminated the VATS from the starting circuit. My car gives me absolutely no troubles now.

I left the VATS system disconnected but in place so I can restore the system in the event that these cars become collectable.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by My1st
Can the Vats be totally removed from the car?
I drove my 89 yesterday with no issues and today it was back to running on four cylinders like it was before I replaced the ignition switch and key as stated in an earlier post (Engine one side hot one side cold). I thought after that replacement it was good to go but now it’s back on four?
Is this a Vats issue or should I be looking at something else? Thanks!
The VATS can simply be bypassed by a jumper. What you are describing is not VATS. As Engle says you have an electrical system problem.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
The VATS can simply be bypassed by a jumper. What you are describing is not VATS. As Engle says you have an electrical system problem.


Not a VATS problem. Injector wiring ??
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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I believe you will find each bank of fuel injectors has its own fuse (2 total). I'd start my search there.

I think you have an injector pulling down a bank. It could also be a wiring issue.

The reason I suspect this is because the injectors are divided side to side whereas the spark/air/compression/rotation is not.

When it is in this failed mode and if the fuses look ok then try disconnecting the injectors one at a time. It may just go from a 4 cyl to a 7 cyl if you disconnect the one that is failed.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Yes I checked the fusses first and they checked out good. I’m pretty sure it’s the driver’s side bank again that isn’t getting the signal again.
When I first had the problem I replaced the ignition cylinder with a new one that has the vats wires and chipped key because the old one did not I got all 8 cylinders back. This is why I suspected it to be a vats problem along with the fact that when I ran a scan it comes up yes for a vats problem.
Someone had taken the chip out of the key and put a clamp on it with one wire on each side to bypass the vats and used a generic ignition cylinder.
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