Adjustung Valves
I know this has been gone over to death but I have to ask about it once again. I have installed some 1.6 roller tip rockers and thought I was doing the adjustment correctly but the engine idles high (1.5k) and misses when I accelerate......bad miss.
The method I was using was turning the engine and when the #1 exhaust pushrod started to push up against the rocker I stopped and adjusted the #1 intake rocker by tightening the nut until I felt resistance in the pushrod and then added another 1/2 turn of the wrench before tightening up the allen lock. Then rotate the engine again until the #1 intake pushrod pushes up and makes the rocker press down on the spring then just before the pushrod goes all the way back down(rocker just about to stop pressing the spring) I adjusted the exhaust rocker the same as the intake.
DO I have a reading comprehension problem and screwed up the instructions or is there something else I am missing???
Thanks
Last edited by megtom2; Jun 9, 2010 at 10:16 PM.
for the adjusting sequence i pretty much followed the FSM - so with the engine in the #1 firing position, or TDC, adjust the following:
exhaust -- 1, 3, 4, 8
intake -- 1, 2, 5, 7
now here's what i did for valve adjustment: using a .0015" feeler gauge, between the rocker arm and valve stem, slowly tighten the adjusting nut until the feeler gauge "grabs". at that point, you should be within .001" of zero lash. then adjust the nut 1/2 turn. this method seems a little more exact, or precise than the "rotate the push rod while turning the adjusting nut" method, and should result in a more even adjustment across the board..
now, rotate the crank 1 revolution or 360 degrees, and adjust the following:
exhaust -- 2, 5, 6, 7
intake -- 3, 4, 6, 8
the 85 ran like a champ. several other forum members have used this method with success. give it a try...

Turning the crank until you line up the timing mark and adjusting 1/2 the valves and then turning the crank 360 degrees is the standard GM method and works well unless you have a wild cam.
Thanks for the vacuum reminder. I had disconnected the line from the purge valve to the throttle body. DOH! Idle issue resolved.
Took it for a drive tonight after I found that but it is knocking when I really hit the gas. Sounds and responds awful. I guess I will give the feeler gauge method a try or just redo them until there is no play up and down from the pushrod then turn another 1/2 turn. SOmething that sounds so easy can always end up being a complete PITA.
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I know this has been gone over to death but I have to ask about it once again. I have installed some 1.6 roller tip rockers and thought I was doing the adjustment correctly but the engine idles high (1.5k) and misses when I accelerate......bad miss.
The method I was using was turning the engine and when the #1 exhaust pushrod started to push up against the rocker I stopped and adjusted the #1 intake rocker by tightening the nut until I felt resistance in the pushrod and then added another 1/2 turn of the wrench before tightening up the allen lock. Then rotate the engine again until the #1 intake pushrod pushes up and makes the rocker press down on the spring then just before the pushrod goes all the way back down(rocker just about to stop pressing the spring) I adjusted the exhaust rocker the same as the intake.
DO I have a reading comprehension problem and screwed up the instructions or is there something else I am missing???
Thanks
I see you found the vacuum leak but the "knocking" doesn't seem like a valve train issue, which is usually described a "ticking", "tapping", etc. "Knocking" is usually more related to rod bearings.
Jake
My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
I see you found the vacuum leak but the "knocking" doesn't seem like a valve train issue, which is usually described a "ticking", "tapping", etc. "Knocking" is usually more related to rod bearings.
Jake
My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
My guess is they are a bit too tight and are keeping valves open when they are supposed to be closed.......but that is a novice guess since the engine ran fine before I did the rockers.

In short I highly recommend a timing light and check your specs and vacuum.
It definitely knocks under WOT. I'll check all vacuum hoses and reset the timing some more and maybe luck into a fix.
Looks like I need to go back in and readjust the rockers again. I'm guessing they are too tight but any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.
The exhaust lifter could ALREADY BE ON THE RAMP and if it is, that'll give you a false reading. So TURN THE ENGINE until the exhaust lifter/pushrod is/are completely down (on the base circle of the lobe and NOT moving). Continue to turn the engine until that lifter JUST BEGINS TO MOVE up -that's when you stop.
This has tripped up a few guys in the past.
BTW, stand directly in front of the engine, when the damper timing mark is on the right side of ZERO (TDC) on the timing tab that's RETARD; on the left side is ADVANCE.
Hope this helps.
Jake
My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
Last edited by JAKE; Jun 23, 2010 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Awful spelling



















