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One more question. If I go ahead and start breaking down all of the springs to make it all go back in quicker when I get the new retainers in the mail can I just put a clothes pin and maybe a rubber band tight on the valves to keep them from falling in? Seems like a way to do it but wanted to ask first.
No help on what to do about the retainers or what kind to order?
Thinking about just putting my old 1.5 stamped ones back on the exhaust and keeping the 1.6 roller tips on the intake. Would that work?
Are you disconnecting the est wire when timing it?
Yes. The timing is not the problem. I have ordered some new retainers and I am going to pick up a pushrod checker today. For some reason the exhaust rocker SA tabs are digging into the stock retainers. I guess I could also grind the SA tabs a little to keep them from digging into the retainers and getting the roller to do all of the work. From what I have read I am glad I didn't drive very far because the self aligning tabs pushing the retainers could have knocked out the keepers anddropped a valve. That sounds about as nice as having Freddy Krueger as your proctologist.
I went with non-self aligning and have had no problems the 113 heads are machined for guide plates. I used comp cams 4808 guide plates very well priced.
This is for an iron head fbody L98 and it would take some head work to allow for non SA rockers.
Here are some pics which always tell more than my brain/fingers can.
Here is the way they sit. From front to back EIIE and you can see how the exhaust sit different than the intakes.
Here is a pic of the exhaust rocker tabs. Markings are pretty easy to see where they came from.
and here is a pic of the retainers side by side. Left is the intake and right is the exhaust.
One more question. If I go ahead and start breaking down all of the springs to make it all go back in quicker when I get the new retainers in the mail can I just put a clothes pin and maybe a rubber band tight on the valves to keep them from falling in? Seems like a way to do it but wanted to ask first.
Yes. The timing is not the problem. I have ordered some new retainers and I am going to pick up a pushrod checker today. For some reason the exhaust rocker SA tabs are digging into the stock retainers. I guess I could also grind the SA tabs a little to keep them from digging into the retainers and getting the roller to do all of the work. From what I have read I am glad I didn't drive very far because the self aligning tabs pushing the retainers could have knocked out the keepers anddropped a valve. That sounds about as nice as having Freddy Krueger as your proctologist.
Whatever you do, DON'T grind on the retaining tabs. That could end up causing more disaster than the retainer clearance problem.
Whatever you do, DON'T grind on the retaining tabs. That could end up causing more disaster than the retainer clearance problem.
Jake
I'm pulling the last two spring this afternoon. Those frigging locks were a PITA to get off.
I'm just hoping the new retainers give the extra 1/16" or whatever it is to let the SA tabs clear. Is there an important reason why the intake and exhaust retainers are different?
Thanks
I hate to ask the stupid question but if you motor has self aligning rockers in stock form, the ones in the picture above are non self aligning, ie does your motor have guide plates because that is what you would have to use with those type roller rockers other wise no wonder you motor runs like crap, those rockers could be all over the place, is that possibly what caused that mark? Just making sure you didn't miss something obvious and hope this helps.
i've got a set of 1.5 comp pro magnum rollers, 3/8 stud, self aligning, p/n 1317-16. I'm going to put them on a alum head LT1 using a stock set of springs/retainers/cam/pushrods.
Am I going to have this kind of retainer clearance problem as well or is this limited to L98's or it's a 1.6 ratio issue?
Rob
Last edited by chileverde; Jun 29, 2010 at 12:06 AM.
Your guess is as good as mine until you get in there. Since I have never been into our 86 vette's valve covers I don't know if the vette has the same type retainers or not. The exhaust retainers are the ones that are doing the damage.
The ones I bought are the PRW 1.6 BTW.
I'm pulling the last two spring this afternoon. Those frigging locks were a PITA to get off.
I'm just hoping the new retainers give the extra 1/16" or whatever it is to let the SA tabs clear. Is there an important reason why the intake and exhaust retainers are different?
Thanks
Hit the retainer with a rubber mallet to break the lock seal. Slightly depress the spring and BANG!
I've never come across an explanation as to why GM's engineers went that different retainer route.
i've got a set of 1.5 comp pro magnum rollers, 3/8 stud, self aligning, p/n 1317-16. I'm going to put them on a alum head LT1 using a stock set of springs/retainers/cam/pushrods.
Am I going to have this kind of retainer clearance problem as well or is this limited to L98's or it's a 1.6 ratio issue?
Rob
Every artricle I've read about changing valve train component advises/warns to check several different areas for clearance issues.
You REALLY have to do that to avoid problems down the road.
Hit the retainer with a rubber mallet to break the lock seal. Slightly depress the spring and BANG!
I've never come across an explanation as to why GM's engineers when that different retainer route.
Jake
I tried mallets, soft dead blow hammer pops, light metal hammer taps and tapping a socket sitting on the locks/retainers that was just bigger than the top of the valve. PB blaster, injection cleaner and liquid wrench.
From my experience liquid wrench was by far the best since it tool me about 6 hours to remove the first 8 using the PB blaster and injection cleaner along with the hammer taps. I knocked out the other 8 in about 3 hours or so with the liquid wrench and the socket tap along with lightly tapping the side of the retainer with a mallet. Anyone going in to replace seals or springs should be ready for a long job unless they have been in there recently.
I tried mallets, soft dead blow hammer pops, light metal hammer taps and tapping a socket sitting on the locks/retainers that was just bigger than the top of the valve. PB blaster, injection cleaner and liquid wrench.
From my experience liquid wrench was by far the best since it tool me about 6 hours to remove the first 8 using the PB blaster and injection cleaner along with the hammer taps. I knocked out the other 8 in about 3 hours or so with the liquid wrench and the socket tap along with lightly tapping the side of the retainer with a mallet. Anyone going in to replace seals or springs should be ready for a long job unless they have been in there recently.
Something doesn't sound right here........wrong retainers maybe?
All I do is depress the spring, not even 1/4 way, and while held there I give the retainer a WHACK or TWO.
When I say WHACK, I mean WHACK!. Can't be timid about some of this stuff.
Jake
Oh believe me there were 4 letter words flying and my timidness with the hammer went away fairly quickly. Some of them were really gunked into the valve stem. A small screw driver helped out also. Sometimes I would get one off but the other would be glued on and that was where the screwdriver came in handy. Pushed the one rascal around until it finally popped off.
Just letting people know what the worst possible scenario can be. This fbody L98 has 147k miles and it had been a while since anyone went in there to do anything. I wanted to do this as a learning experience and I learned plenty. Most posts about the subject make everything a walk in the park but it isn't always like that.
Oh believe me there were 4 letter words flying and my timidness with the hammer went away fairly quickly. Some of them were really gunked into the valve stem. A small screw driver helped out also. Sometimes I would get one off but the other would be glued on and that was where the screwdriver came in handy. Pushed the one rascal around until it finally popped off.
Just letting people know what the worst possible scenario can be. This fbody L98 has 147k miles and it had been a while since anyone went in there to do anything. I wanted to do this as a learning experience and I learned plenty. Most posts about the subject make everything a walk in the park but it isn't always like that.
Sounds like the motor has been neglected for a while now. Even with that many miles a motor that has had regular oil changes the retainers should not be that difficult to remove. Anyway, glad you got them off and can continue on now.