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Just got the word from the shop knocking noise was #1 rod bearing and the rod has
damaged the crank to where they will need to weld and turn or used crank I'm go with
a new crank everything else block, heads, intake good, will bore and have
flat top pistons, cam, springs, valves etc. put in also..
#1 failure is usually inadequate oil supply if I am not mistaken
Just got the word from the shop knocking noise was #1 rod bearing and the rod has
damaged the crank to where they will need to weld and turn or used crank I'm go with
a new crank everything else block, heads, intake good, will bore and have
flat top pistons, cam, springs, valves etc. put in also..
If you're replacing the crank, you might as well go 383 - just my opinion.
Cranks can break from fatigue (I have a textbook example of fatigue from a broken Corvair crankshaft). A stress riser at a fillet (where the Corvair crank broke) or oil hole can initiate a crack that ultimately results in a complete fracture. Lots of miles and imbalance create the forces that propogate the failure. Depending on the location and "roughness" of the break the crank can rotate as a single assembly that allows engine operation (just very poor operation).
Now that I have the engine under control I have another question
I have a set of Z06 chrome wheels with tire I have taken off my
99 C5 vette and would like to put them on the C4 1987 as anyone
done this change over and please let me know just what was needed
to do this change? The wheels on the 87 are 16's all the way round
and I'd like to put 17x8.5 frt. and 18x10.5 back.