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I have allready been through the VATS troubleshooting. Or at least all I could not being an electronics technition. I was told by an "answer .com" mechanic that the VATS system tells the starter relay to give power to the starter and the fuel pump and the fuel injectors.
At one point I shorted out the starter relay while holding the key switch to the start position. I got the car to start, but the fuel injection was not working right and filled the exhaust with unburned fuel. NOT A GOOD EXPERIENCE>
If you filled the exhaust with unburnt fuel, one would have to assume that VATS has not disabled the injection and your problem is elsewhere.
If you still have the dash apart exposing enable relay, you can test to see if the VATS module is supplying ground to relay.
I have allready been through the VATS troubleshooting. Or at least all I could not being an electronics technition. I was told by an "answer .com" mechanic that the VATS system tells the starter relay to give power to the starter and the fuel pump and the fuel injectors.
Your answer dot com mechanic was partially right, VATS does give a signal to the starter enable relay to give power to the starter and it does allow the signal to go to the fuel injectors, however as jfb says, it does nothing to the fuel pump.
Did you check to see if the starter enable relay was getting the signal and passing power through to the starter?
The problem is that you are asking the questions thinking that someone here can tell you which part to replace, that isn't going to happen. JFB knows this system better than any of us and will lead you by the hand to troubleshoot it, but if you aren't willing to check for power at certain places to see what the problem really is, it will be very difficult to fix.
You are not really at your witt's end, just getting started......
Your answer dot com mechanic was partially right, VATS does give a signal to the starter enable relay to give power to the starter and it does allow the signal to go to the fuel injectors, however as jfb says, it does nothing to the fuel pump.
Did you check to see if the starter enable relay was getting the signal and passing power through to the starter?
The problem is that you are asking the questions thinking that someone here can tell you which part to replace, that isn't going to happen. JFB knows this system better than any of us and will lead you by the hand to troubleshoot it, but if you aren't willing to check for power at certain places to see what the problem really is, it will be very difficult to fix.
You are not really at your witt's end, just getting started......
You are right that I need to do a lot more problem solving. I can tell that I put a new starter enable relay in, but it still did nothing. If I manually push the relay contacts the starter works, but it will not run without fuel building up in the exhaust.
Anyway it's 4th of July and I don't want to bother you people anymore at this time. I will have to take the dashboard apart again to check power on the relay. REAL hot out there today. I'll get back to you when I get achance to check more things out.
Thanks for your time,
Bert
Have a neighbor that's a mechanic. Going to ask him to take a look at it if he can. Don't know how he'll get it to his garage(to low to the ground). Probably will have to sell it to pay the bill!
The car is listed as a classic and could be sold for 15,000 if in excellent condition. At this point it is definatly not in excellant condition. Probably going to ask 10,000 or best offer. What do you think?
I think beauty is in the eye of beholder.
15 not a chance...ever.
10, maybe.
8-9 more likely.
7-8 yes you will.
5-6 I'll buy it from you.
I'm experiencing the same problem with my '89 after car is up to temp and I stop after about 30 minutes, I get a no start no crank, the lights will come on in the dash that's it. I have replaced the Battery, Starter, Starter Relay last year, This year Fuel Pump Relay and Neutral Safety Switch just this weekend, between the two posts on the starter I get 12v and when I turn the ignition on I get 3v on my multi. Also noticed no fuel pump noise. After I let it cool for about an hour she starts right up. I have to do a load test on the battery next.
I for got to mention I pulled the dash apart and the Starter Relay does click in when the key is turned on.
You need to find out where 12v power through the VATS system stops when the problem occurs.
If your start enable relay pulls in, then power should be available on the output terminal of the relay, if so, then determine if 12v power is available on the input and output wire of the gear position switch in park and neutral. If power is there, then you need to see if power is after the splice S206, to the left of the steering wheel (on my 87 and probably on your 89). If so, then see if 12v power is on both sides (inside and outside of passenger compartment) of the through firewall connector. If so, then see if 12v is on the solenoid wire connection on your starter motor. If so and the starter will not crank, then you have a defective starter solenoid.
I have traced the purple wire and came across this splice about 6" from the starter wrapped in tape. Removed the wire from the splice with a fresh piece of 16g wire and solder and covered it up. I also noticed the same stud on the starter to be loose it would actually move? After tightening the wire the stud also tightened. I have also reconfigured that orange wire so it's not on top of the ignition stud. I'll let you know what happens.
The car is starting fine now, I also added a complete bypass of the VATS system which includes the modular. I have an after market security system anyway don't need two systems to drive me crazy. I still believe the VATS modular was the culprit, the previous owner did the key bypass.
The car is starting fine now, I also added a complete bypass of the VATS system which includes the modular. I have an after market security system anyway don't need two systems to drive me crazy. I still believe the VATS modular was the culprit, the previous owner did the key bypass.
My mechanic bypassed the VATS module and the car runs fine now. The cost was a total of $350. Still think I'm going to sell it if anyone in the area is interested.