When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I guess it's the VATS system that's giving me problem. Drove our 89 Vette to and from work one day, shut it off, and tried to go somewhere 15 minutes later only to have absolutly no response from the starter.
Tried our other key to no avail. Bought a vats system bypass and still nothing. Also tried a new starter relay still nothing at all. Anyone have any ideas.
Bert
Did you check the "Security" fuse? It's a 15-amp in the fusebox located on the passenger side of the dash. You can swap it with the courtesy lamp fuse if you need to...
Did you check the "Security" fuse? It's a 15-amp in the fusebox located on the passenger side of the dash. You can swap it with the courtesy lamp fuse if you need to...
At this point we are thinking of just trying to sell it for wahtever we can, but don't know how much to ask for it. It has less than 50,000 miles and my wife just loves her summer car.
At this point we are thinking of just trying to sell it for wahtever we can, but don't know how much to ask for it. It has less than 50,000 miles and my wife just loves her summer car.
Codes?
Try cleaning your key pellett.
Good batt?
edit
Any chance you had a dirty key, then tried your 2nd key, which MAY have been wrong, ordered a improper VATS bypass off of dirty or wrong key?
Could happen.
You can see your key reistance using the paperclip method, this will tell you if your CCM is reading a diff. between keys.
did you check starter? have someone hold key to crank and see if you have 12volts on the s terminal. if you do and it does not crank it is starter. You can always try this have someone turn the key and tap on the starter with a hammer. But before this check battery connections, Battery. Do you have power to anythng?
I read both keys and came up with same value (1080) which is #7 key. When I purchased the VATS bypass, I also cheked this and got the same reading. If I hook up a code detector will this give me any information?
did you check starter? have someone hold key to crank and see if you have 12volts on the s terminal. if you do and it does not crank it is starter. You can always try this have someone turn the key and tap on the starter with a hammer. But before this check battery connections, Battery. Do you have power to anythng?
At one point I shorted out the starter relay while holding the key switch to the start position. I got the car to start, but the fuel injection was not working right and filled the exhaust with unburned fuel. NOT A GOOD EXPERIENCE>
I hate to sound critical, but this is an easy problem to troubleshoot. Start at the starter, is there power there when you turn the key to start, if yes, then the problem is the starter, if not you need to go back to the next step which I believe from memory is the clutch switch or neutral safety switch. If you look in the FSM, it will show you how the power gets from the battery to the starter, trace it back and see where your problem is and then replace the appropriate part.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by skybolt31
I hate to sound critical, but this is an easy problem to troubleshoot. Start at the starter, is there power there when you turn the key to start, if yes, then the problem is the starter, if not you need to go back to the next step which I believe from memory is the clutch switch or neutral safety switch. If you look in the FSM, it will show you how the power gets from the battery to the starter, trace it back and see where your problem is and then replace the appropriate part.
This problem will be easy to fix very difficult to guess correctly.
Badduck and Skybolt are correct. That is where I was going in my frist post the reason I asked if it was auto or not was if things checked out from my first post. Then to check and see if you have power at the neutral safety, if you do jump across it and see what happens.
Let me tell you that I don't even hear the fuel pump. My gauges work, but that's all the response I get when I turn on the key. I have been told that the problem is with the security system and that the Vats is somehow causing the problem.
I DON'T KNOW AND AT MY WITS END.
Let me tell you that I don't even hear the fuel pump. My gauges work, but that's all the response I get when I turn on the key. I have been told that the problem is with the security system and that the Vats is somehow causing the problem.
I DON'T KNOW AND AT MY WITS END.
Take it to a comp. mechanic and.............
Skybolt31 said...
Start at the starter, is there power there when you turn the key to start, if yes, then the problem is the starter, if not you need to go back to the next step which I believe from memory is the clutch switch or neutral safety switch. If you look in the FSM, it will show you how the power gets from the battery to the starter, trace it back and see where your problem is and then replace the appropriate part.
A good mechanic will get you done in no time.
or...
89, red, vert, -50K miles..."At this point we are thinking of just trying to sell it for whatever we can, but don't know how much to ask for it"
Can you hear the starter solenoid click? Did you remove the battery cables and clean the cable lugs, bolts and battery terminals? VATS has nothing to do with the fuel pump. If you can't hear the starter solenoid click, then you may have VATS problems. Use the search function for VATS, I have typed how to trouble shoot VATS over 300 times.
Can you hear the starter solenoid click? Did you remove the battery cables and clean the cable lugs, bolts and battery terminals? VATS has nothing to do with the fuel pump. If you can't hear the starter solenoid click, then you may have VATS problems. Use the search function for VATS, I have typed how to trouble shoot VATS over 300 times.
Skybolt31 said...
Start at the starter, is there power there when you turn the key to start, if yes, then the problem is the starter, if not you need to go back to the next step which I believe from memory is the clutch switch or neutral safety switch. If you look in the FSM, it will show you how the power gets from the battery to the starter, trace it back and see where your problem is and then replace the appropriate part.
A good mechanic will get you done in no time.
or...
89, red, vert, -50K miles..."At this point we are thinking of just trying to sell it for whatever we can, but don't know how much to ask for it"
How much?
Just take it in......
Have a neighbor that's a mechanic. Going to ask him to take a look at it if he can. Don't know how he'll get it to his garage(to low to the ground). Probably will have to sell it to pay the bill!
The car is listed as a classic and could be sold for 15,000 if in excellent condition. At this point it is definatly not in excellant condition. Probably going to ask 10,000 or best offer. What do you think?
Last edited by Bert&Cindy; Jul 5, 2010 at 07:11 AM.
Reason: wrong price