C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Freeze Plug on Drivers side front replacement?

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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Default Freeze Plug on Drivers side front replacement?

My 88 I just bought has a leaking plug. The others look OK. It's the one that is hidden from direct access. Anyone have ideas on the labor involved in the replacement? I think the previous owner put some stop leak in the radiator because the filler tank has an thick, oily fluid in it. Thanks for your ideas.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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getting the leaking core (aka 'freeze', incorrectly) plug out is typ the hardest part of the repair,...most pros just drive the leaker in till if falls harmlessly inside the cooling jacket and remains there for centuries...then install a rubber 'expanding' repair plug from any auto parts store for ~$3 (tightening the repair plug center bolt makes it expand, just be sure to buy the correct size repair plug, maybe buy a couple sizes if not sure/return the unused )...in most cases, a 'long' (several FEET) steel rod can reach in from outside the engine compartment to 'hammer in' the leaker, total time (excluding clean up) under 15 min.

Last edited by redrose; Jul 6, 2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Wow, I like your answer! From what I can see as it is up on the rack, there is just not much room to manuver tools. Are you talking about working under the car or on a lift, and would you pull the left front wheel for a better view?

Thanks
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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If its the one behind the motor mount, its 1.5 hours labor.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Yep, that's the one.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by C5Lookin
Are you talking about working under the car or on a lift, and would you pull the left front wheel for a better view?
have done more of these (most not 'glass girls') than i WANT to remember, some on lift, some on floor jack, a couple just parked the car over a dry drainage ditch to crawl under...best view is usually best working position.

btw, 'round off' the end of your 'driver rod' with a grinder or a hammer to reduce chance of cutting thru the leaker before moving it...'engineering' a curve in the driver rod may help for really tight spaces.
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