Car starting problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
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Car starting problem
Went to start my 93, started turning over and made a quick sound and stopped. Now I turn the key and lights come on, but nothing else.
I do not even here the starter click, I just replaced the starter a month and a half ago.
Could the relay have gone bad or worse?
I do not even here the starter click, I just replaced the starter a month and a half ago.
Could the relay have gone bad or worse?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: New York New York
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
If you turn on the parking lights, then try the starter, the lights should dim if the starter is drawing juice. If they don't, the starter is not trying. Possibly- poor ground at starter, weak connection at relay or starter, or, the starter is not happy. Open winding in starter?
Last edited by sailorsteve; Aug 4, 2010 at 03:35 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
You could try to see if the engine will turn by putting a socket on the front pulley (you'll have to remove the air intake). You will be pulling against compression, but you can put a piece of pipe on the breaker bar and it should move. If you have a 6 speed, put it in neutral.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,620
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
HOW did you test the starter, in or out of the car?
Measure voltage to solenoid terminal as you turn the key, is it there?
Measure voltage to big (battery) lead when you turn the key, is it there?
Have you turned engine by hand. Put socket/breaker bar on bolt on (balancer) hub just to make sure engine is free.
Could bendix be jammed in flywheel?
Depending on your answers, you can then get a accurate direction based on data.
Measure voltage to solenoid terminal as you turn the key, is it there?
Measure voltage to big (battery) lead when you turn the key, is it there?
Have you turned engine by hand. Put socket/breaker bar on bolt on (balancer) hub just to make sure engine is free.
Could bendix be jammed in flywheel?
Depending on your answers, you can then get a accurate direction based on data.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
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That is what I can't figure out, car started normally till the last attempt. I was doing the replacement in a parking lot, but I retorqued both bolts.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
HOW did you test the starter, in or out of the car?
Measure voltage to solenoid terminal as you turn the key, is it there?
Measure voltage to big (battery) lead when you turn the key, is it there?
Have you turned engine by hand. Put socket/breaker bar on bolt on (balancer) hub just to make sure engine is free.
Could bendix be jammed in flywheel?
Depending on your answers, you can then get a accurate direction based on data.
Measure voltage to solenoid terminal as you turn the key, is it there?
Measure voltage to big (battery) lead when you turn the key, is it there?
Have you turned engine by hand. Put socket/breaker bar on bolt on (balancer) hub just to make sure engine is free.
Could bendix be jammed in flywheel?
Depending on your answers, you can then get a accurate direction based on data.
Just thought of something, I never heard the click of the relay, even after I replaced it. Since both the A/C relay and starter relay's are the same, I might have replaced the wrong one. Is the starter relay on a 93, right beside the steering column?
FSM says it is, but the A/C relay is there too, how do I know which is which?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
If you have a manual it wil only crank if the clutch is pushed down. If you have an auto it will only crank in N or P. Could this be your problem?
This statement doesn't seem correct
"Since both the A/C relay and starter relay's are the same, I might have replaced the wrong one"
This statement doesn't seem correct
"Since both the A/C relay and starter relay's are the same, I might have replaced the wrong one"
Last edited by Lemme; Aug 5, 2010 at 05:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
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Lemme,
It is a auto and I was going by what a chevy mechanic told me and I do not think the neutral switch is my problem.
I am thinking the shorter bolt backed out(my fault) and the longer bolt snapped as I tried to start the car(side note, it broke the sensor right beside it on the block and the O2 wire) and when the starter came out the hot post grounded against block or something and caused the current electrical problem.
Anybody have an idea on how to get the broken part of the bolt out?
It is right beside the tranny and block, looks like I would need a bit about 5-6 inches long to get it out.
As I am righting this a Chevy mechanic friend just told me that you should have a rubber gasket between starter and tranny and because I did not have it on, could have caused my starter to vibrate and twist while starting the car.
It is a auto and I was going by what a chevy mechanic told me and I do not think the neutral switch is my problem.
I am thinking the shorter bolt backed out(my fault) and the longer bolt snapped as I tried to start the car(side note, it broke the sensor right beside it on the block and the O2 wire) and when the starter came out the hot post grounded against block or something and caused the current electrical problem.
Anybody have an idea on how to get the broken part of the bolt out?
It is right beside the tranny and block, looks like I would need a bit about 5-6 inches long to get it out.
As I am righting this a Chevy mechanic friend just told me that you should have a rubber gasket between starter and tranny and because I did not have it on, could have caused my starter to vibrate and twist while starting the car.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 2
From: Perth Western Australia
St. Jude Donor '10
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
Lemme,
It is a auto and I was going by what a chevy mechanic told me and I do not think the neutral switch is my problem.
I am thinking the shorter bolt backed out(my fault) and the longer bolt snapped as I tried to start the car(side note, it broke the sensor right beside it on the block and the O2 wire) and when the starter came out the hot post grounded against block or something and caused the current electrical problem.
Anybody have an idea on how to get the broken part of the bolt out?
It is right beside the tranny and block, looks like I would need a bit about 5-6 inches long to get it out.
As I am righting this a Chevy mechanic friend just told me that you should have a rubber gasket between starter and tranny and because I did not have it on, could have caused my starter to vibrate and twist while starting the car.
It is a auto and I was going by what a chevy mechanic told me and I do not think the neutral switch is my problem.
I am thinking the shorter bolt backed out(my fault) and the longer bolt snapped as I tried to start the car(side note, it broke the sensor right beside it on the block and the O2 wire) and when the starter came out the hot post grounded against block or something and caused the current electrical problem.
Anybody have an idea on how to get the broken part of the bolt out?
It is right beside the tranny and block, looks like I would need a bit about 5-6 inches long to get it out.
As I am righting this a Chevy mechanic friend just told me that you should have a rubber gasket between starter and tranny and because I did not have it on, could have caused my starter to vibrate and twist while starting the car.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,616
Likes: 5
From: Sandhills of North Carolina
If the snapped bolt is flush with the bellhousing, and if you have lived a good and noble life, there might be little or no force needed to back the bolt out. Try sticking the end of a retriever type magnet (on a rod) on the bolt and rotating it. Myself, I have lived a regrettable life, and this has worked for me only once or twice.