When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The broken bolt should just screw right out unless it is cross threaded. There is no torque on it now so all you neeed to do is get ahold of the tip and screw it out. When you reinstall use the proper starter bolts I prefer GM there are minnor differences in some of the aftermarket ones I do not like. Also on some remanufactured the holes in the starter are egged out the bolts should be snug in then if not the starter can twist when you start the car and can cause the problem you have.
If the snapped bolt is flush with the bellhousing, and if you have lived a good and noble life, there might be little or no force needed to back the bolt out. Try sticking the end of a retriever type magnet (on a rod) on the bolt and rotating it. Myself, I have lived a regrettable life, and this has worked for me only once or twice.
If what you are saying is true, I have NO chance of it coming out.
Info from the 92 FSM- fuse for starter is in the panel at the right end of the dashboard. Photos are from this manual, I don't have a scanner. Good luck.
What is say here I believe to be true but it is about 6 years ago I discovered this. At least for me according to my notes in my FSM for my 94, the delayed bus and the start relay are in reversed positions. If looking at the picture above, the start relay was in the middle and delayed bus relay on the far left.
I have not verified this information in a long time so take it with a grain of salt, but I believe it was accurate at the time. I do agree cruise relay is on the right in the picture (drivers side of car).
Not true!!!!!!!!!!!! VATS measures the resistance of the pellet in your ign key and if it is correct, then it closes the start enable relay allowing 12v from the ign sw in crank position to pass to the gear selector switch at the base of the gear shift and then on to the starter solenoid. Also, the VATS module tells the ECM that it can pulse the injectors. Most VATS problems occur when the contacts in the ign lock don't make connection to the key pellet. You can test the contacts by removing the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the 2 pin connector and with the ign key inserted , measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. It should measure the same resistance as the pellet. If ok, then unplug the gear selector switch at the base of the gear shift (if auto) and connect a jumper across the socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank on the ign. You should see 12v. If no 12v then the start enable relay is not being closed or it is defective. You can jump 12v to the jumper and the starter should crank.
The good, replaced starter relay and found the bad wire and now I can start the car.
The bad, service light will not come on, radio does not work, wipers do not work and I could not get the broken part of the bolt out and when the bolt broke it took out the O2 wire and the knock sensor.
Found a 2nd short and I think the ECM is gone, car runs but has no power, think more is fried. Car is going to shop tomorrow, I have almost no tools w/me and the hotel let me know that working on the car there is not allowed.