New belt
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Pretty straight forward.The belt routing label is on the fan shroud and if you don't have the long flat bar socket tool designed to relieve the tensioner pulley to remove the belt,just use a 5/8" box end/open end wrench and interlock a second box end wrench into the open end of the first for increased leverage and pull toward the drivers side. Just maintain enough tension to allow removal of the belt and reinstall.
Rick
Rick
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Rolla Missouri
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10 thru '25
Nothing really hard about it.
Just release the tension on the tensioner pulley and remove old belt.
They make a special tool for that, but I just used a breaker bar. Just the breaker bar itself, no socket.
It is very important to know the exact routing before you take the old belt off.
The first time I changed mine, I couldn't get the new belt on. After about 45 minutes of trying I looked at the routing diagram again and realized I was routing it wrong.
It was close, but not exact. Once I routed it correctly, it slipped right on.
Just release the tension on the tensioner pulley and remove old belt.
They make a special tool for that, but I just used a breaker bar. Just the breaker bar itself, no socket.
It is very important to know the exact routing before you take the old belt off.
The first time I changed mine, I couldn't get the new belt on. After about 45 minutes of trying I looked at the routing diagram again and realized I was routing it wrong.
It was close, but not exact. Once I routed it correctly, it slipped right on.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
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Ya I am having trouble getting the new one on, I checked and double checked the routing , I guess It must be wrong even looked in the big red book I guess I better have a cold one and try again,94 degrees out maybe that's why. 
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Take care you don't accidentally shear off the water temp sensor with your breaker bar/socket wrench handle. It's jutting out of your water pump housing and is easy to damage if you're not careful.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Yes,the old belt is probably streched some making the new one a little harder to install. Have you got the belt rib grooves aligned with the damper good and have you used all the tensioner belt travel available?You can and probably should loosen the alternator mounting bolts to allow it to drop to the bottom of the aluminum bracket slot if its not already there. You only have a little movement in the 5/8"slot for the bolt but it may also help some with the new belt. In fact,it might be worth pulling that adjustment bolt out to see exactly where the alternator is positioned in the slot without loosening the other Alt. bolts. There are 4 bolts and a nut involved with loosening the Alt.on a 95. 2 of the bolts are on the rear bracket support.1 main hinge bolt/nut, and 1 front bracket adjustment bolt/nut.Good luck.
Rick
Rick
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Mine was a very tight fit. Took me about 45 min to get it on, first time ive had to do it.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,329
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From: woodbury new jersey
i used to have tons of problems with the one on my 94. now i just set it in all grooves except the tensioner and power steering pulley, move the tensioner all the way, slide it on the power steering, then slide it on the tensioner. can have it on in 2 minutes
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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This is one of those jobs where it helps a whole lot to have a helper remove the belt while you're applying/releasing tension on the pulley.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
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